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  1. Today
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    This jacket spent 24 hours lying on the back seat of my car with two other jackets on it. Tomorrow, a part timer will press it.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi Sir, Are you still selling fabrics? If so would you have any in charcoal grey or even darker greys than that for offer? I would like solid colors only. You can email sherwyn@koa.sg directly. Thank you.
  5. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    I hear lots of stories like the above. You give a non-WIS a Rolex, and twenty years later, they're still wearing the damn thing. I think, it's partly to do with the high wearability factor, the timelessness (conservativeness) of Rolex's designs such that even older models do not look dated, and the superior ruggedness of built. Where other brands of watches are found with cracked crystals, deteriorated dials, corroded hands, and defective movements, Rolexes keep their youth extremely well. Better than any other brand. In this interview, he has quite a few of these stories:
  6. Earlier
  7. "6"

    The suiting thread

    This is why you dont skip leg day at the gym
  8. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Part Timer B sewing a canvas
  9. carbman

    Shirts

    maybe a thin DIY layer of clearcoat spray?
  10. kotmj

    Shirts

    I wrote to the supplier of MOP buttons: Hi S., I have a question. When the MOP buttons have been attached to the shirts and the shirts laundered, the buttons lose their gloss, becoming dull. I suppose the buttons were given a wax finish at the factory; this is then washed off by the detergent during laundry. Is there the option to have a polymer finish that is permanent? This way, the buttons remain glossy even after many washes. Cheers, Jeremy
  11. kotmj

    Shirts

    I got my hands on an Oxwhite. The shirt was loaned to me. Review coming soon.
  12. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Nomos like an instrument, Rolex like jewelry.
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Huberross Nevada. Bony, bumpy shoulders. Shirt in The Embassy St. Tropez (a zephyr).
  14. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I have another issue with the video! I've never seen anybody pad stitch a lapel like that. He either knows something the rest of the world doesn't, or he's the ignorant one. The rest of the world pad stitches the lapel in order to program the lapel to fold over, and after the fold, to curl backwards. To achieve this, the coatmaker holds the lapel in either a folded or curled position, then affixes this shape with pad stitching. This is very common knowledge. Even otherwise retarded KL coatmakers know this. The technique is best seen here, from 3:30 minutes onwards. Notice how, even after a single column of pad stitching at the lapel crease line, the lapel displayed a marked tendency to fold over. That Korean coatmaker was pad stitching the lapel with the lapel completely flat! Arhhhhh! Is that for real? I'd have fired that guy within 30 seconds.
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The other issue I have with the video above is the type of chest canvas. Unless I'm very mistaken ( I don't think I am, I've been doing this quite a while now), it is THE CHEAPEST chest canvas money can buy. There must be one huge factory in China that churns them out in huge quantity. Because everyone in KL uses exactly that chest canvas, from RM600/suit uniform jackets for hotel staff to five-figure fully canvassed jackets by my competitors. They all use that exact type of chest canvas. Why? Because it's the cheapest, and it even sort of works. I have many issues with that type of chest canvas. I will spare you the list. It sort of works, but not quite. It works the way one of these cheap collapsible fly fishing rods advertised on American TV shows would work. People who are serious about fly fishing don't use them.
  16. kotmj

    Shirts

  17. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I think I follow no more than two or three tailors on IG, and a post by one of them came up on my feed. I almost fell off the stairs. You see what is a densely machine sewn canvas. Wow. I thought this would not be done by them. This is very prevalent especially in Asia. Every HK tailor whose canvas I have seen does it. Practically every Malaysian tailor does it as a matter of course---they're surprised anybody would hand sew the various canvas pieces together. They don't know it's even a possibility. If they want to work for me, I tell them it's not only a possibility, it is compulsory. Or I fire them.
  18. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Some buttons arrived yesterday
  19. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    First suit in Huberross Nevada, a super high twist cloth. 10 oz. It's for a Malaysian working as a civil servant in Singapore. Interestingly, he went to the same secondary school as I did in Kuantan. Civil engineer. The double breasted vest was made for a different customer. I'm starting to have new observations about these very high twist cloths which I may write about.
  20. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    In case anybody was wondering, I wore that trousers all morning and afternoon before that pic was taken.
  21. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    My latest suit in Carlo Barbera Riserva 1911. As most of you know, for myself I prefer a rather roomy cut with moderate waisting. In general appearance, it's not that different from what, say, Brioni would aim for. When there is less ease than what you see here, a jacket ceases to perform normally. I'm very happy with the neck fit and shoulders.
  22. kotmj

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    An unusual ultrafine. Instead of soft, this is plain rugged. A massive cloth; has the bullet proof feel. The word assoluto means "complete, total". I suppose this is Carlo Barbera's effort at a universal cloth, an ultrafine that wears like, oh I don't know, cavalry twill. Introduced in the 90's, the Assoluto is now discontinued, and remaining stock (much depleted) is on closeout. The reason given was that the sort of wool used to make it costs too much today.
  23. "6"

    The watch appreciation thread

    Infernal affairs 2 showcases a day-date as well. On the gangster boss “Ah Hau” - played by Francis Ng. Looks the business.
  24. In reality, human bodies are like rats in that we can live on pretty much any organic matter. This made it possible for humans to live in very different areas of the earth, in a way few animals could (notably the rat). People can survive on anything. A pack of cigarettes a day, half a bottle of whiskey, and fast food. There are people trying to discover the diet we were meant to eat. If fish have planktons and other fish as their native diet, and monkeys eat leaves and fruits, what is the native diet of humans? It turns out there is no definitive answer. The reason: Humans became humans because of our unnatural diet. Humans became humans because somehow, we grew a huge brain relative to our body size. The other primates could not afford such a brain because of a lack of calories. What made it possible for humans to evolve such a large brain is the mastery of fire, which allowed cooking. Cooking allowed humans to eat things which are otherwise inedible, even poisonous. Plants would not exist without a defence against being eaten; this defence manifests itself as a poisonous cocktail. By cooking plants, these chemicals become denatured and the calories become accessible to us. As humans spread out from warm tropical climates to colder places, it became necessary to eat more animals and their produce, like dairy, simply because for a large part of the year, there are no plants. It is a suboptimal diet, but over millions of generations, humans evolved (through natural selection) the ability to survive on such a diet. The evolution did not complete itself. We were sort of halfway through becoming carnivores. Humans don't do well at all without daily intake of vitamin C, which only exists in raw plant matter. Without significant and constant fiber intake (which only exists in plant matter), humans develop autoimmune disesases. So while we can sort of survive on meat, the fact that we started off as plant eaters is very much a reality. So we started off as raw plant eaters. Then, we evolved to eat primarily cooked foods. This created a big brain that fuelled progress, which allowed the industrial revolution and now we can produce as much meat as we want. Poultry farms are public listed companies. Today, we eat as much meat as we can. At our core, we are raw plant eaters who tolerate cooked foods and animal produce so long as raw plant matter are ingested alongside. The real food pyramid starts with animal products at the top. Lower down is cooked plant matter (like grains and tubers). At the base of the pyramid is raw plant matter.
  25. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    One watch a lifetime
  26. kotmj

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Nah. Higher impact than that.
  27. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Is that a Day-date? This is one of the few videos where you get to see a solid gold watch in context. I think it looks very wearable. Obviously blingy, but it's tasteful bling.
  28. takashi

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Meet and greet, GTG. Kerbau cloth 2.0 !
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