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  1. Today
  2. Trousers/Pant

    The underside is extremely typical. Practically the entire world sews the underside of the cuffs like this, except in Malaysia people would serge the cut edge of the cloth before the cross stitching is performed. Notice also how the cloth has been machine serged along the long seams. The long seams were also machine sewn---just like the rest of the universe. There are no buttons to secure the cuff---just some simple hand tacks, pretty much like the rest of the world including the tailors above the Pasar Besar Bentong. Also notice the inlay convention. No inlay on the front. 3/4" inlay on the rear. Practically identical to the inlay convention in Malaysia.
  3. Trousers/Pant

    Cuffs on Ambrosi. Notice the constriction on the trouser leg as a result of the top of the cuff not having a bigger diameter. This, too happens on some of my trousers, but that's because I got tired of teaching and reteaching the trousermakers. I would tell them not to cause the constriction, and they sometimes would. The moment I stop mentioning it, it comes back again. So I gave up on this battle. But I have a good excuse! My trousers cost a small fraction of Ambrosi. I actually know how to permanently solve this problem but it requires a lot of organisational changes. The fact that Ambrosi also suffers from this suggests to me that perhaps Ambrosis are also sewn by independent trousermakers working from home, and who are thus not constantly subject to the vigilant attention of the brand owners. If these were sewn by salaried employees working on premises, it will not happen because you can give them a kick or a whack on the head each time they sew the cuff like this. Nobody likes to be whacked so often, so eventually they do it right. Unless they work from home, where they are not whacked. Sorry if I sound a little coarse, but we are dealing with "cari makan" people here---trousermakers are not these special beings with very high expectations of themselves. They are mostly feckless. Their only ambition is to make a living. But, to put things in perspective, this is what the founder of Nomos watches would call a "ultrafeines Problem", literally an ultra fine problem, or more idiomatically, a subtle problem. It's just a bit of constriction near the cuffs. Big deal. The only reason I mention it here is because there is nothing subtle about the price of an Ambrosi. At their price, it is reasonable to expect no constriction.
  4. Trousers/Pant

  5. Yesterday
  6. Trousers/Pant

    I also have fit pics of the trousers on the customer it was cut for. But they might bring about the downfall of the house of Ambrosi.
  7. Trousers/Pant

    Breaking news: I have an Ambrosi in fresco in my car.
  8. Gloriously off-topic

    You should bring them to KL with u
  9. Last week
  10. Gloriously off-topic

    These retrievers are great company
  11. The suiting thread

    Well you said it urself, some may have learned from their parents or somewhere else, or purely out of interest......so no harm testing them on their tailoring skills, no matter how little.
  12. The suiting thread

    I showed one of the coatmakers last night my Chinese job ad. I asked him what would be a suitable salary. He gave a long-drawn-out indefinite answer. So I told him how much I was thinking of paying. He then told me his son had learnt tailoring from him and I might want to consider him. (Even his wife used to make jackets and she always listens in when I'm talking to him.) His son is a skinny pale guy who appears to be in his late teens or early twenties. You know how some people, when they enter a room, becomes the center of attention of the whole room. This guy is the opposite. Very dilute presence.
  13. The suiting thread

    We're talking about 16-yo's
  14. The suiting thread

    Can the sew, can they cut etc..... Give them a piece of cloth and see how they work it?
  15. The suiting thread

    What do you mean by technical skill?
  16. The suiting thread

    Take the Mensa test? How bout their technical skill?
  17. The suiting thread

    Suggest a test! I'm thinking of having them complete an IQ test.
  18. The suiting thread

    Will there a hands on test of their basic skill?
  19. The suiting thread

    My job ad will run nationwide from Fri till Mon. For those who can't read Chinese, it says that we, a modern tailoring establishment which produces suits made with traditional methods using the finest cloths in the world are looking for school leavers who would like to train to become excellent tailors. Accomodation is provided. The ad had to do many things: to disassociate ourselves from old school declining tailoring shops and those tailoring shops located above the pasar besar of small towns, to communicate that we produce a luxury product, and to communicate that we are not looking for those who merely want a menial job to make a living. This milieu we are in is foreign to almost all potential applicants. Their brains mostly cannot wrap around what we do. Their idea of a tailor is the 70-yo guy in a half-shop above the pasar besar who makes pants for other old men and who alters jeans. Potential applicants are those who have done quite disasterously at school, are living in the provinces, and are contemplating a blue collar job, like a mechanic in a car workshop, or a cook in a Chinese restaurant. Assume a mother calls me. Blah blah, she goes. Blah blah. How do I figure out if her son is completely useless and severely brain damaged, or if he merely has the wrong temperament for school? Eventually some will end up in front of me. Mother, father, son (or daughter). I still have to figure out the real reason the guy is so hopeless at school. In Bentong, where I go for servicing my car, the mechanics are all Chinese and the two managing partners (young men) don't look at all brain damaged. They do not behave like those of us who spent too much time in school, but they are not unintelligent. Yet, they left school way before SPM.
  20. The suiting thread

    I actually find these multistoried stuructures extremely inconvenient. Vertical living is for those who love climbing up and down stairs. I would greatly prefer a single storey structure.
  21. The suiting thread

    Something like this would be awesome. Or like this
  22. The suiting thread

    I was talking about Tailor-on-Ten with a customer just now, and I told him how I've always felt about them: They have the coolest shop format. A rented bungalow. I don't quite like the location I have; it would be great to be in a more genial place. A bungalow would be great. Maybe I should rent one of those old bungalows in PJ.
  23. The suiting thread

    Sometimes controlled chaos. Othertimes uncontrolled chaos.
  24. The suiting thread

    Just had a fitting with the customer who sells ad time on tv. He asked if I'd be interested in collaborating with a movie director working on a sci-fi cinema movie. This customer took a call while in the shop and closed a rm100k advertising deal.
  25. The suiting thread

    Forgot to mention there are also two Vincent's currently having suits made.
  26. The suiting thread

    Oh, almost forgot to mention I sold a jacket in Escorial this morning.
  27. The suiting thread

    I handed over a suit jacket just now and the customer told me that he mentioned to an employee of his, a 20-something year old engineer, that he's having a suit made at JT. The employee has heard of JT and was awed that the boss is getting a suit from JT. It amazes me that random people I've never met would have heard of me. Also, I received an enquiry from a copywriter at Leo Burnett. I've always wanted to meet a real copywriter. Currently, there are two Jeremy's and two Desmond's having stuff made---such an overlap would have been unthinkable even quite recently. And, yesterday, a customer from last year dropped by again, this time for a linen jacket. He's the MD of the local office of the world's third largest tech company.
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