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  1. Past hour
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    However, due to space constrains and other issues, Mahon moved out of Warwick Hall and into the first floor of a rural townhouse.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've been asking myself why don't I like working, or being in this unit. Did you know I've never liked this place? (It's still much better than a unit in a shopping mall or a shoplot.) I then started asking myself what sort of space would make me happy to be in all day. Like, so nice, I don't even feel like going home. How would such a space look like? 1. It needs to be on the ground floor. 2. It needs to be situated in nature, or at the very least a garden. 3. It needs to have many windows to let in light. 4. It preferably faces the south because that sort of light is best. It turns out there is one tailor who had such premises. He liked working there so much, that he would rather take the train to London to see customers than to be situated in London. His name is Thomas Mahon and he used to work out of Warwick Hall. In fact, I'm quite happy if I have something akin to Philippe Dufour's workshop.
  4. Today
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Of course the handsewing station also makes a great place to have a drink while answering emails on a tablet/laptop while monitoring the traffic situation on the LDP.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Bought three of these lamps so I could use tungsten halogen bulbs instead of the LED lamp affixed to the ceiling. LEDs are so harsh. I've never liked them. I also created what I'm calling a handsewing station, comprising a desk, a swivel chair, drawers and a lamp. It looks very simple and a matter-of-course, but it took me several years and some reflection before it occurred to me I need something like this and that this is the optimal setup. The drawers contain all the threads and sewing implements. I've seen the workspaces of many, many sewing tailors, and none have a place dedicated to handsewing. They either do their handsewing while seated at their sewing machines, or at their cutting tables. Both are suboptimal for all sorts of reasons.
  7. Yesterday
  8. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    https://paultan.org/2018/05/04/geely-design-chief-peter-horbury-on-creating-an-image-for-the-rising-brand-and-his-vision-for-proton-design/ ^ I really don't think the share price reflects the stuff coming to Proton. It's a mistake to think of Proton as Proton, only better. There is no more Proton. There is only Geely. How much would you pay for Geely?
  9. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Today, I added DRB-HICOM to my portfolio. There are two major portions to this company. One is Proton. The other is Posmalaysia+Poslaju+Alam Flora. They call the former Automotive and the latter Services. Revenues are about 50-50. Services has been making money and has showed solid growth due to the rise of online buying. But the profits have always been erased by the deep losses of Automotive. As a result DRB-HICOM is often seen in the red, occasionally making a profit then going back into the red. It reached a nadir in mid 2016 when the share price touched 86 sen. An announcement of three new models reversed the slide. The stock rallied. In mid 2017, the government gave a billion ringgit to Proton. Then shortly after, Geely bought half of Proton. The share price went to RM2.65 in February this year. Today, it's at RM1.93. I bought because I liked the turnaround story. Geely licensed 3 models to Proton in exchange for RM810 million, which DRB is paying for by selling Alam Flora to Malakoff. The Proton version of the Geely Boyue is coming in a few months. This will be followed by the VF11, an MPV. Then a crossover called the Binyue is coming. Turnarounds, if successful, cause the share price to really shoot up. I do not think the market has properly priced DRB-HICOM's much improved prospects. Proton has been transformed from a basket case living off government grants to becoming a proxy for Geely in ASEAN. The share price does not reflect this. So I bought.
  10. Last week
  11. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've been reading Permanent Style lately. It occurred to me that a few years from now, when he has run out of tailors in Europe to review, we will see a series titled "Simon Crompton does Lucky Plaza". (That's Singapore)
  12. kotmj

    Shirts

    I asked him if he does a one-piece collar. He says yes.
  13. kotmj

    Shirts

    Giulio sent this back to me. I learnt a few things! In Italy, just like in Germany, they write their "1" just like that and use the comma as decimal point. They also use the metric system, unlike in KL where we use inches. He titled the sketch "margini cucitura camicia". Literally, margins seams shirt.
  14. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Are the lugs soldered on? Nearly every watch brand has retro-inspired pieces in their catalogues. I think of Zenith's Pilot Type 20. Longines is perpetually digging into their extensive archives for more models to bring back from the grave. Here the Longines Military Watch with fake flecks on the dial. I think what these resurrections have in common is these companies have created a structure that filters ideas. Because not every old watch is worth resurrecting in 2018. Their product developers must have come up with hundreds of ideas. There is probably a small group there whose task is to pick only those that would illicit pangs of desire in the buying public. These promising ideas then go to the designers who further accentuate the desirability for a contemporary audience. At Apple, Steve Jobs was like a one-man filter. The opposite would be car companies, where designs go through multiple stages of critique (including by external consultants), eventually ending at the BoD who either asks for a rework or okays a design. The process of product development is as important as the ideas. It shows when it's weak, as it is at JLC.
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've always wondered where Najib gets all his suits made. He was once seen in Canali Pavilion. I mostly assumed he gets them from a Canali-like brand but to a bespoke pattern. They might send them to him by mail from Italy, several dozens each time. An extremely reliable source told me today he gets them mostly from two sources. One is Jakel. The other source is an obscure tailor called British Tailor in Kuching. British Tailor was for years the largest customer for Scabal cloths in Malaysia.
  16. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Minutes ago, added Berjaya Food to my portfolio. It owns the Starbucks, Kenny Rogers and Jollibean franchises within Malaysia and a few other countries. I was dismayed to see Chryeis Tan on the board. She's one of Vincent Tan's daughters and does almost nothing with her life except going on perpetual and neverending holidays. I happen to follow her on IG. Doesn't one tire of being a full time tourist? This is really a play on the continued success of Stabucks within Malaysia. At a PE ratio of roughly 20X depending on how you want to calculate earnings, it's not cheap. But, revenues have never dropped, and Starbucks' SSS are still increasing. Historically, the stock has almost never traded lower than it does today. Yet, revenues were never higher. Like McD, Starbucks goes from strength to strength.
  17. kotmj

    Shirts

    I sketched this for Giulio in order to compare the seam allowance convention between KL and Napoli.
  18. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Another stock I'm thinking of buying is Star Media group, publisher of The Star. People are giving away their shares in it almost for free. Yes, yes, I know the newspaper business model is broken. People no longer watch TV and do not read print newspapers. So advertisers have decreased their ad spend on print media. This has caused the company to have declining revenues. The way I see it, Star has merely a distribution problem. People still love the product Star makes. What product? The news they put out. Malaysians love the damned thing. Not many companies have structured themselves to produce such a quantity of writing that the public loves to consume. They just want to consume it on their phones, not on paper. So the product is still very relevant, just the distribution has been superseeded. Management has shown itself to be very quick to act. Though revenues are down, profits are up due to VSS/early retirement scheme. They've removed thousands from the payroll. Management has also conserved cash. The share price is 76 sen. Of this, 23 sen is cash. It's too cheap, too cheap!
  19. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    The story with AirAsia is more complex. In fact, I just found AirAsia a few hours ago. Impulse purchase? The reason I bought it: The sheer entrepreneurship! There is no other such game in town. They don't give up pursuing what they want to see happen, and are innovating across a variety of adjacent areas. They are just at the beginning in other markets outside Malaysia. Revenues, profits and market share are all growing. The PE ratio for what is indisputably a growth company is remarkably moderate. AirAsia may be too big and complex for me to look at too closely. Too busy.
  20. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    The story with Yoong Onn is very straightforward. Basically, both revenues and profits have quadrupled and tripled respectively over the last 12 years. In about 5 years, they doubled the number of Home's Harmony outlets from 10 stores to 20 stores. No debt. A bit more than 50% of the company is owned by the founder and CEO. Those shares are worth some 81 million ringgit. No capital raising exercise since being listed. No company acquisitions. Purely self funded and growth is 100% organic. PE ratio is 6.7X when you look at earnings for the last four quarters.
  21. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Life got too boring. I started working out, since I seem to have a surplus of energy and well-being recently. Then, I restarted an old hobby. Stock investing. I opened a Rakuten Trade account, which allows me to buy stocks at the lowest fees in Malaysia. Yesterday and today, I bought quite a bit of shares. I bought Yoong Onn, the manufacturer of Jean Perry pillows and operator of Home's Harmony retail outlets. I also just bought AirAsia Bhd. Pretty much in equal amounts.
  22. kotmj

    Shirts

    Wow, wow. Four passages is priced quite moderately and I am optimistic it will find acceptance in KL.
  23. Earlier
  24. takashi

    Shirts

    Oh how i miss this dudes postings.....
  25. kotmj

    Shirts

    Ok, I'm now pretty sure Liverano shirts are four passages. Last night, I wrote to Francisco Holzer. Hey! I was quoted XX by a company in Napoli to cut and sew a 15 passages by hand shirt. Very expensive, no? I may have to abandon the plan to offer Napoli-made shirts to my customers. Sit back and enjoy his reply: It might be a scam since the fee is XX-YY for 15 passages ( Kiton quality= a shirt that retails for minimun 400 euros) It is the price for a 8 passages. Beware with Neapolitans and never pay in advance, they always say what you want to ear but never do what they say. and in the best of the cases, they can even deliver a shirt machine made or with 4 passages made quite fast. Even me who knows all the industry let my dream of offering bespoke shirts finished by the own factory I was working. I am pretty ill and in hospital back and forth for years, I can offer you the bespoke tie service that is fast and reliable. I was a damn narcissist as my family, I am now one of the biggest experts about the Dark Triad of Personality: psychopathy, narcissism, maquiavelism and so on, thatnks God I could get rid of the secta of some of my relatives in prison: The biggest heroin traficker of it´s time: the psycho who beated up me everyday while robbed my mother 15 millions keep it secret. I hope you also get rid of your narcissism since being humild and low is the biggest thing one can live, FS francisco sepulcre, the psychopath brother of my mother victim, in Hell since 10 years ago, what a party I did. http://www.topical30.com/articulo/investigacion/la-mafia-italiana/20180930214206001658.html
  26. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    This morning, the above and his spouse each left a one-star rating on my Google page. He so succinctly and comprehensively described my ideal customer profile. Perhaps I should have been less coy about it. In the future, I may just do a phone screening. Customer: I want appointment. You free later today? JT: Did you send your CV earlier? We require that before we can grant you an appointment. Customer: CV? I'm not asking for a job. Anyway, I'm an assistant MD. JT: You mean like a PA? We don't really take those in. Customer: You don't understand. The MD is my father. JT: Are you second or third generation? Customer: Third. My grandfather started the company. JT: Good. We don't take in second generations. Too parsimonious. What's the revenue like? Customer: Huh, what? Like 36 million last year. JT: Ah. We only do above 200 mil. When you reach that, give us a call. Thanks, bye.
  27. kotmj

    Shirts

    One way to bring the price down is to go for 8 passages by hand. In fact, this is pretty much the standard at Naples. 15 passages is the max amount of handwork. Liverano shirts are I believe 8 passages or fewer.
  28. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Ei, that jacket so familiar. Oh, now I remember! A few years ago, I spent four hours pressing that thing! The cloth was impossible. Of course nowadays, I have part timers to do things like that. I learn that picture was taken at his company's AGM.
  29. kotmj

    Shirts

    Giulio quoted me a price. It is very high. It's 15 passages by hand with an open worked shoulder, whatever that means. With such a price and courier charges, I'm pessimistic about the market viability. A shirt would be priced pretty much at Luca Avitabile territory. I may have to find an alternative.
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