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  1. Today
  2. The suiting thread

    Your interns are indeed multi talented.
  3. The suiting thread

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/yrulsid6sq3sx8y/portabilita.mp3?dl=0 I hope the link above to an audio snippet is audible. Dispatch A will be editing the video, but it should take a while. Watching myself on video, I realise I'm too excitable. I need to be like a big lorry, not a little sportscar.
  4. Last week
  5. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Am I the only one who finds the grain of the Muji solid oak table so wonderful
  6. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    The Assoluto range has been discontinued. Reason: The specific sort of Super 150's wool used for it has gone up in price a lot. CB now uses a Super 140's as their mainstay, called the Dolce Vita Super 140's. However, this means the Assoluto has been discounted to clear the few remaining colours.
  7. The suiting thread

    Originally I asked Dispatch A to operate camera, audio and lights, because he has done so before and because he's a great guy to hang out with, but he had to go somewhere. So I brought along Part Timer A as the sole production crew. That picture was taken by her with her phone.
  8. Dress shoes

    World Championships in Shoe Shining 2018 https://coconuts.co/singapore/news/worlds-best-shoe-shiner-26-year-old-singaporean-man/ John Chung, 26, emerged as top dog in the World Championships in Shoe Shining 2018 last month — an actual annual competition organized by leading authorities on classic men’s shoes at the London Super Trunk Show. The founder of Singapore’s first artisanal shoe shine bar Mason and Smith went head to head with fellow finalists from UK and France, and it was Chung who impressed the judges on color, shine, and finesse.
  9. The suiting thread

    Were you the sole member of the production crew? The picture taken via tripod
  10. The suiting thread

    ^Met with Fabrizio Donati, Export Manager of Carlo Barbera and co-founder of The Embassy shirting fabrics. We had an hour-long talk. Currently identifying a suitable person to edit the video and audio. I've learnt not to do such things myself.
  11. The suiting thread

    All ready for the interview with Carlo Barbera tomorrow. As I have said repeatedly, anything involving video is very equipment-intensive. Meanwhile, Part Timer A made a lapel hole today. First, the hole needs to be reinforced with fine machine sewing. Then, the stitching begins. And the result...
  12. Earlier
  13. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Eagerly waiting for the video.
  14. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Hi P., Thanks for the invitation. I'd love to come meet you guys in KL on YYYY. In fact, to make it more productive and meaningful, I'm thinking of doing a video interview with the Export Manager of Carlo Barbera. I'll bring along an assistant to operate the camera and lighting. Some of the questions I may be asking: a ) What are the cloth collections produced by CB and a description of why each is particularly suited to its intended application b ) What is your favourite CB cloth and why c ) What are the goals of CB when developing a cloth d ) What makes CB different from other mills e ) What are the channels through which CB moves cloth f ) Is Luciano Barbera still involved g ) What changes has Kiton introduced since the acquisition h ) What possibilities does CB see for itself in SE Asia i ) How does CB market itself? Obviously, they may choose not to answer any particular question. Let me know closer to that time which hotel you'll be in. Cheers, Jeremy
  15. Shirts

    The single ply Meander 71 doesn't feel warm. Just a little too translucent and a little too 'shiny' for my liking. Just found out that it is tough to iron out the creases as well. LOL
  16. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    I've been thinking what an incredible opportunity it is to meet with the Export Manager of Carlo Barbera. I have an odd jacket in Carlo Barbera that I wore early in my career for years, and am very impressed with the performance of that cloth. It doesn't have any supers rating, but feels like a sort of cashmere and somehow doesn't wrinkle. I don't know how they do it. This is an old article on Carlo Barbera: https://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/business/global/01italy.html Luciano Barbera, the guy who ran CB, racked up too much debt and had to be saved by Kiton, who is a major customer and who now owns CB. I've been thinking what CB can do in the Malaysian market. Mostly, what premium cloth brands do in the Malaysian market is they ride on the coattails of tailors. The tailors market themselves, and the cloth brands then make sure they are on the shelves of these "winning" tailors (many tailors are "losing" tailors---they lose market share every year). These brands are too small to market themselves in far-flung foreign markets like Malaysia. There were exceptions like Zegna and Loro Piana who for decades were quite aggressive, but unfortunely they had to work through their distributors, who are much better at distributing than they are at marketing. Marketing requires a sort of genius and magic. Distributing is what rice distributors do. But my collaboration with H&S allows H&S to appear on Malaysian national TV every weekday. So it appears possible to transcend the shelves of tailors. What is possible with CB will depend on the temperament of the Export Manager. Is he a cunning marketeer (what are all the ways we can appear in front of the Malaysian public in a wonderful, magical way), or is he just a distributor (you order cloth, I send cloth)?
  17. Shirts

    Right now as I'm typing this I'm wearing a shirt in a fabric that was woven like a net. Super porous, but thick and heavy to prevent skin colouration from showing through. It's super comfortable for our climate.
  18. Shirts

    I've made quite a number of shirts in the Soktas Linda Meander 71. It has a weft of slubby linen. Warp is the Meander 71, a particularly long staple cotton grown on Soktas' own plantation in the Meander Valley. I had a customer in the shop last weekend who took delivery of a navy linen jacket in H&S South Pacific linen, and was keen on a linen shirt. He's from the Indian subcontinent, and has a strong preference for all things linen. For the shirt, he wanted a pure linen, but I nudged him towards the Linda. I think the Indians grow up with a sort of reverence towards linen, so he was torn between pure linen, or a linen-cotton. I told him the Linda is "less agricultural". He said he has no problem with linen's "agricultural look". About the Meander 71: I've been wearing a shirt in the very stout 2X2 ply Meander 71 lately. Argh! It's not suitable for the Malaysian climate! It wears very warm; totally not porous. But it is very smooth and feels indestructable. It's not exactly thick, but just feels compactly woven, almost crisp, and just very smooth with very little surface hairiness. In that sense it is something special and non-generic. In cooler climates it would make a wonderful shirt.
  19. Gloriously off-topic

    Hear! Hear!
  20. Gloriously off-topic

    Good triumphed over evil
  21. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Carlo Barbera is coming to KL in a couple of weeks and would like to meet with me.
  22. The suiting thread

    Fascinating video of mid century HK. The clothes are so retro!
  23. Shirts

    Button-down shirt Fitting
  24. Shirts

    Soktas Linda Meander 71 66% Cotton 34% Linen Very light and porose, relatively less prone to wrinkles than pure linen. Single ply. Horizontal unstructured fine white lines across. Translucent with light, suggested as shirt fabric for hot summer days. 2nd from right chosen as test shirt
  25. Shirts

    The great unwashed
  26. The suiting thread

    His bio: https://www.international-light-association.org/event/idl-2018/presenter/alexander-wunsch
  27. The suiting thread

    I looked around to see if I'm the only one who dislikes flourescent and LED lights, and found the work of Dr Alexander Wunsch, a medical doctor with a private practice in Heidelberg. The human organism interacts with light in complex ways. He explains just a few of these interactions in this interview, eg. 1. How our bodies respond to different wavelengths of light 2. Why LEDs are very poor approximations of sunlight 3. How LEDs cause macular degeneration through oxidative stress 4. How LEDs mess up our endocrine system 5. How flickering lights like flourescent and LEDs cause nervous system fatigue Btw, Dr Wunsch is also a good example of the sort of "ideal student" of real universities. If you don't see yourself thinking and talking like him, university is not the ideal place for you.
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