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  1. Yesterday
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Only sunlight is real light. The others are just very inadequate fakes.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    You see here the wavelength profiles of sunlight, a white Led light, and fluorescent light. Superficially, all three appear to be white light. But just look at the components of that light. The fluorescent creates its white light by mixing a very specific red, with a very specific green and a very specific blue. Hence the three peaks. The other wavelengths are almost completely absent. The Led does something similar. https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-power-spectra-of-the-standard-sunlight-AM15-a-white-LED-used-in-this-work-and-a_fig1_320346591
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    https://www.ledsmagazine.com/leds-ssl-design/driver-ics/article/16695240/proper-driver-design-eliminates-led-light-strobe-flicker-magazine What a flawed paper. It makes the false statement that flickers above 160 Hz are undetectable and cause no health issues. The problem occurs during eye movements called saccades. We execute thousands such eye movements throughout a day. "Saccades are rapid, ballistic movements of the eyes that abruptly change the point of fixation. They range in amplitude from the small movements made while reading, for example, to the much larger movements made while gazing around a room." The stroboscopic effect during a saccade only disappears if the light has a flicker above 3000 Hz. Which few lamps are designed for. https://www.google.com/amp/s/theconversation.com/amp/the-scientific-reason-you-dont-like-led-bulbs-and-the-simple-way-to-fix-them-81639 Flicker is only one problem of fluorescent and LED lamps. You have the other problem: blue light. Some LEDs emit a massive proportion in the blue end of the light spectrum. This causes a distortion of your circadian rhythm and hormonal changes. Then there is the third problem. The light output of these man made luminaires have frequency gaps, i. e. some portions of the spectrum are underrepresented. The light is just artificial and totally not like sunlight. An analogy is infant formula vs breastmilk. Artificial light vs sunlight is like that. So, design the space you spend time in such that you can work and live with sunlight alone when sunlight is available. After dusk, use a filament light.
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I made some changes to the loft today.
  6. Last week
  7. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    How does a great architect build his own office? He builds it for the sense of well being of the occupants, instead of trying to impress visitors, or to appear "professional". You see lots of wood, foliage, and sunlight.
  8. "6"

    The watch appreciation thread

    Dweller on leather strap. Infinitely more comfortable than on its bracelet. Looking at a black rubber strap for it now.
  9. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Yeah, a sewing machine!
  10. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    http://theconversation.com/leds-could-be-harmful-to-health-the-eu-halogen-ban-will-make-it-worse-102589 What an illuminating article. By Professor of Psychology, University of Essex, so this is not a quack who wrote it. I completely identify with the effects of magnetic ballast driven flourescents, and whenever I am in the lighting department of IKEA, all the LEDs there give me eyestrain. At home, I use incandescent bulbs. At the cutting table, too.
  11. carbman

    The suiting thread

    What's in the wooden box at the base of the stairs? A sewing machine? Form factor reminds me of the bone densitometer in "The Pursuit of Happiness".
  12. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I'm making the editor of the above movie a velvet jacket ensemble for the red carpet premiere of the movie. He was once involved with the visual effects of Life of Pi.
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    In the foreground is Aali, a UM Economics student who is my part time dispatch boy and general shop assistant. I'm figuring out a way to dispose of the sofa. I also just bought the lens whose box is on the oak table, the highly esteemed Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 in Sony E mount.
  14. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today, we moved the workshop from the loft to downstairs. The ceiling is taller, there is more light, and it spares me trips up to the loft.
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    This picture was well received on IG
  16. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I can't remember the last time I chalked and cut cloth for trousers. Must have been ages. I even sewed the baste myself, which took an hour. Previously, it wasn't possible for me to take a picture like this because the cutting table was too small. This new cutting table gives a complete view of the lay.
  17. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I just bought four of the above from Lazada. They're steak presses. 8"X4". Perfect as cloth weights on the cutting table. As far as I know, I'm the first to use steak presses as cloth weights. Let it therefore be hereby documented.
  18. Earlier
  19. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    So I called Ah C. His voice sounded like someone I could work with. He's currently living in a small town away from KL. Resting, he said. I told him the deal: He gets paid such and such per jacket, and he must work in the shop. He balked at working in the shop. Can't I work from home? he asked. I said he must at least work three or four months in the shop before he gets to work from home. This is so he understands our way of doing things. He really disliked the idea. I said this is a non-negotiable requirement. Well, he said, what if I drop by and you explain to me your requirements. I'll understand with a single look, he said. No need to spend months in the shop, he said. Obviously, he will understand nothing with a look. These are the dumbest class of people I've met in my life. I need them in the shop to learn the meaning of personal standards, which none of them have any. I need them to learn the meaning of specification conformity. I need them to see, with their own eyes because they will not believe it otherwise, the thoroughness with which the garments are fitted and the consequence with which we edit the patterns. There is no room for them to interpret anything, especially since they are retarded. Their job is to follow exactly what we patternmakers have specified. Something they almost never can do. If they can't follow, they have to seek an explanation from us instead of doing their own thing. He also needs to be here for me to dispel the many superstitions he has. He thinks he knows tailoring? Working here will show him an entirely new world. He really wasn't keen on working in the shop. I said that's the deal. Call me if you want it.
  20. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I just saw Carrie Lam's latest press conference. I finally understood why the situation in HK. Why the persistent unrest. She's a charisma-less bureaucrat. Instead of a leader of the people by the people, she's an administrator installed by Beijing---who moreover evades direct questions in a public forum. She is completely out of her depth. Beijing is now already looking hard for her replacement. Her successor will be more popular with the people. Someone who sides with the people of HK without alienating Beijing.
  21. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Look at this guy's jacket shoulders. Magnificent.
  22. Lelong: Wool solaro suit in a size 38 short jacket (approx), with 32 inch waist trousers. Never worn, no tags. MYR 3800, on ebay now. Forum price MYR 3500. DM me. https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/283578045178?ul_noapp=true Made in Italy. Sold by Anglo Italian in London.
  23. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    It turns out he's 22. He's coming by soon for an interview. He's a class valedictorian who has a penchant for participating in competitions, probably because he sometimes wins. He won rm10k from an Air Asia competition. But even at 10 years of age, he won third place in a Toyota painting competition. He posted a picture of a serger on instastory, saying how that's his new toy. It's actually quite difficult to find someone whom I can imagine might be able to replace me. This is the closest I've come. He is English-speaking and appears quite literate. Most graduates are not really English speaking and only semi-literate, having the vocabulary of 13-year olds, regardless of language. 90% of our customers are English speaking and fully literate, so it is important the cutter, who is customer-facing, shares these characteristics. He also seems like the sort who can deal with humans relatively successfully, another trait not easily found.
  24. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Minutes ago, I just DM'ed a 21-year old guy the following : "If you ever thought of becoming a bespoke tailor..." Yep, that's it.
  25. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today, at lunch, the phone rang. A competitor was at the other end---a tailor like myself. I've never talked to him before, but know of his existence. "Do you know Ah C.? I use him for my fully canvassed jackets, whenever I have any. He's wondering if you have work for him. Why don't you call him?" It was many hours later before I finally recall who Ah C. is. I heard from a young coatmaker that he's the most respected coatmaker in KL. I asked him how one goes about evaluating such a thing. He said lots of people in the industry regard him as such. I had my doubts. "My boss used him for a couple jackets. He was amazed by the quality," said the young coatmaker. "But he's just too slow." He urged me to contact Ah C. I never did. Well, now, years later, Ah C. contacts me.
  26. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I don't think I can buy a suit from Mr Anderson. He is very high tact/clock rate. He's the sort who's accustomed to dealing with many things very quickly.
  27. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Oh no there was a two tone Skydweller on Wing Wah for only RM69k.
  28. kotmj

    The Denim (contrast) Thread

    Red underside
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