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  1. Today
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    That jacket was EUR3500.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The guy was extremely transparent in the video. No smoke and mirrors, and particularly afflicting London tailors, no superstition.
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    It's interesting to me that I understand every word, without having to strain or pay particular attention. It goes into my brain almost as if it were in English. Which is unexpected since I've not used German in many years. I was expecting to have to work my brain to understand it. This guy is very remarkable. Only 26 years-old, but is a fully integrated tailor who is actually reasonably good even at fit. There are other integrated tailors, but they tend to have spent decades to become integrated and even then are really poor in the fit department. I would watch documentaries about them and am just shocked at how amateurish they are at fit. What is more typical is the separation between those who cut and fit, and those who sew. To do both at a high level at 26 is truly remarkable. I see some weaknesses, but they are really minor. He'll figure them out in no time. I think he will become a towering figure in the German tailoring scene. His intelligence is reflected even in the way he organised his work space. So rational, so devoid of pomp and pretentions (stagheads, chimneyplaces, leather wingchairs, etc).
  5. Nabilalif

    The suiting thread

    How i wish it is in english.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I was forwarded this video today. What a great work space he has, and such new and cool equipment.
  7. Yesterday
  8. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Hmm, not as impressive as I thought it would be
  9. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    So, this is it. The idea I had last night turned into flesh today. Almost all buttonholes are terminated by a tack of some sort; either a simple loop tack, or a more elaborate bar tack. Here, you see an embroidered triangular tack at the end of each buttonhole. I have never seen this done anywhere. It is 100% an original idea. Going forward, I might have the triangle done in a different colour for a small colour accent. Sometimes, it is great to have colourful buttonholes, i.e. buttonholes which do not blend in with the cloth. But the effect can be too much. Having the triangle tacks in a contrasting colour isn't overwhelming because they are quite small.
  10. Last week
  11. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Tomorrow, I shall unveil an innovation of seismic proportions. Subject to it turning out ok.
  12. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Another jacket awaiting attention on the hand sewing station
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Yes. The hand sewing station received a major ergonomic upgrade today. Instead of the working surface at desk height (70cm), it has now been raised to bench height (90cm). This reduces fatigue from having to stoop over your work, or from having to bring the workpiece with your hands up to your eye. This makes the station even more like a watchmaker's bench. Something she made today:
  14. vrp

    The suiting thread

    French cuffs?
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    For the picture, he tilts to one side
  16. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Latest plant & equipment addition. Vintage Singer button attaching machine. Industrial chic. Notice how narrow the table is.
  17. Nabilalif

    The suiting thread

    It must be great once in a while not to be making grey and navy suit.
  18. kotmj

    Shirts

    Ultimately, only one shirtings group may survive in Italy. Albini. Which makes Thomas Mason. What about Grandi et Rubinelli, you ask? Only a matter of time before they, too,....
  19. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today, I was told of the demise of two established industry players. One, Testa. It is insolvent and will be liquidated. This also means the Atelier Romentino brand is gone. Second, Sparkmanshop. It will also close down. Some profitable outlets will be sold to management. Its manufacturing facility in Cheras will be liquidated.
  20. kotmj

    Shirts

    Today, I was told by Fabrizio Donati, who is a former employee of Testa and currently runs The Embassy, that Testa is dead. It is insolvent. This also means the Atelier Romentino brand will no longer be produced.
  21. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Just a quick pic because I'm so impressed with this myself. Looking at this makes me feel as if I'm a real tailor. The jacket has undergone no final press, not even by the coatmaker. A more Instagram-worthy pic will come tomorrow, together with the pale blue shirt and forest green grenadine tie the customer is going with.
  22. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today has been super intense. Apart from overseeing the pattern editing by my apprentice, I also saw a customer while the sewing machine guys delivered and commissioned a button attaching machine in the shop. After a hurried lunch, a Singaporean cloth distributor came with Fabrizio Donati of The Embassy to visit and discuss business. I thought I'd decompress by meditatively sewing buttonholes on a vest. It also lets me experience for myself working under the watchmakers bench lamp. (The lamps are fabulous.)
  23. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Mine are China-made. One day, I would like to use these German lamps which, like all things German, cost a lot.
  24. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I'm sticking with tungsten/halogen lights at the cutting tables for now because I find the warm, full spectrum light they produce to be soothing.
  25. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The two watchmakers' bench lamps arrived. Totally flicker-free due to the high frequency electronic ballast which is housed within the thick vertical arm. I find this to be a very good solution for all task lighting, as you see here being deployed at the machine sewing station. The lamp at the hand sewing station. There are three joints in the lamp which allow considerable flexibility. The joints are very stable---there is no "creep" due to gravity. The ball joint at the lamp housing allows the lamp to be slightly tilted away from the eyes, preventing glare and eyestrain. You see the very important tilting function below.
  26. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Some interesting people I met recently: a ) There is this company listed on bursa called Cocoland. It has a market cap of about half a billion ringgit. The daughter of the ultimate controlling shareholder is my apprentice. It's interesting to me to see how a guy worth a few hundred million ringgit goes about managing his kids (he has two). His son, the eldest, lives in a rented house with his wife and child. He has to rent because that's all his salary could afford. He works in the father's factory, making a market-competitive salary, but no more. His younger sister, who works for me, also relies on what JT pays her to buy stuff for herself, though in her case lodging and food, as well as a pretty nice car, are covered by the family. The father sure is doing what he can to avoid spoiling his kids. b ) This morning, a Hollywood screenwriter was in the shop. c ) Last Wednesday, while driving to work, as customary, I checked out the news sites. On the front page of every newspaper was the face of a guy I had whatsapped with just the day before. It was my customer. He went from obscurity to national infamy. He was shown seated in a winged armchair, making a confession. I was in the midst of making him quite a number of suits and quite a few shirts.
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