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  1. Yesterday
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The colours of Antonio
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Our cutting workload
  4. kotmj

    The Denim (contrast) Thread

    Making a jeans in ecru denim. What I've learnt so far is that nearly every kind of denim I have in stock has been spoken for at least once. Grey denim, brown denim, ecru denim, denim with crazy weft, cotton-linen denim, heavy denim, light denim,.... Customers also pick the craziest thread colours. As for hardware, some want steel, some want brass, some like copper... This all surprises me. I thought people would mostly want the typical kind of jeans. But no, they go for all variations of the jeans. But there is one constant. Everybody went for the zipper fly.
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Bar jacket muslin baste
  6. Last week
  7. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today, I drove to an antiques shop in Shah Alam to buy this boiler steam iron made by Osaka Denki Kogyo, one of about three such manufacturers in Japan, the other two being Naomoto and Hashima. It is almost new, with some sticker glue mess on the handle that should clean up easily. I paid RM150. This model isn't meant for tailors. It's a laundry iron.
  8. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Buttonholes done by the intern who has just completed one month of internship
  9. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The 5-part sleeve head wadding from the Parisian tailoring textbook resulted in a Cifonelli shoulder.
  10. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Largely without exception, tailoring is done very poorly in Malaysia. This mostly has to do with its practitioners: they're the dumbest, lowest IQ people I've encountered in my life. Almost on the level of toll workers. It is not possible to run a tailoring operation alone. Not in the way you can be a lone music composer or graphic designer or author of novels. So even if you are very smart, since tailoring is labour intensive, you have no choice but to have large portions of the value creation be done by other people. These people are extremely dumb. They are even illiterate. One part that is executed so poorly (that it almost makes me cry) by almost every one is the sleeve head. More precisely the wadding, which is the structure underneath the sleeve head. I've encountered such disasters in this area. Maybe even delivered a couple, but let's not go into that. Now, I'm turning my attention to this. Above is the most sophisticated sleeve head wadding I've seen described. It's so cool. It comprises 5 parts. Many Malaysian tailors do a single part wadding. The most complex wadding I've seen a tailor do in Malaysia is 3 parts. Since I'm supposed to be getting serious about this, I went and sourced a critical ingredient: 100% wool wadding.
  11. Nabilalif

    The suiting thread

    I humbly seek my suit also shown here 😁
  12. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Court-Dweller receives one sleeve
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Introducing the Jeremy Tok Court-Dweller. Its admirable silhouette makes winning more gratifying and losing more stylish. Its intrinsic quality makes tedious court sessions more bearable. Also making this lawyer a bar jacket. We're also making another Court-Dweller for a bona fide DPP.
  14. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The patterns we have to draft...
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Above is a very typical shoplot interior. Real estate people call it an "intermediate" unit. An intermediate unit has light at both of its short ends, but none along its side. I want to have nothing to do with such an interior. It is necessary to find a corner unit. These corner units have windows along their long sides. Moreover, there is wrap-around glazing along one of the short ends. The effect on the interior is substantial.
  16. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I checked out a new potential place for JT today. It's at 10 Boulevard PJ. I'm pretty sure most of you have passed by this place countless times. It's along the Sprint highway, adjacent to Damansara Uptown. It's opposite the police station at Uptown, the one where I made my substantial contribution to the police on behalf of my employee's father. It has a much more upmarket feel compared to the Parklane Commercial Hub. The floor plans of the units are nearly identical. The common areas have pretty good landscaping. A unit here would cost some RM1300 more per month than Parklane. That's RM1300 per month to buy this thing called "image". What if, instead, I used this money to purchase human hours, and used these human hours to increase the labour content of our products?
  17. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    We're in one of the worst recessions in recent memory. Yet, in the last 7 days, I sold 5 suits. For the next week, I have multiple appointments for more suits. The demand is unexpectedly robust.
  18. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Datejust on the beach
  19. Earlier
  20. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I want to be comfortable, but I also have competitors who need vanquishing. My landlady, who is in her 70s and a wealthy lawyer with a house on Bukit Tunku, refused to offer any rent discount. At all. She's the socialite sort; Rafidah Aziz attended her 70th birthday, which was covered by Malaysian Tatler. She was extremely unpleasant to deal with. I do not identify with people like that. Not much to admire there. I have decided to leave Empire City once the rental agreement expires end of this year. My space in Empire City has 3 major problems. Everybody complains it is difficult to find, with a convoluted entry. Some people tell me it looks like a condo (even though it's a SOHO, which is why we're even allowed to do business there). Lastly, the largest unit is only 1300 sqft. On the last point: We're space constrained. I moved from a 950 sqft unit to the current 1300 sqft unit and operations really improved. It allowed me to go from one Pfaff sewing machine to the current 12 machines, and from one employee to the current 2 employees + 1 intern. The move made jeans possible. But now, I want to make trousers and jackets entirely on premise, but there is no longer any space for the people, the machines, and for storage. Today, I checked out a shop office. It has quite a number of windows, letting in a lot of natural light. It is supposed to be very cheap (RM1.00/sqft) but this needs to be confirmed. It's at Parklane Commercial Hub Kelana Jaya. Its right beside the LDP, near St. Ignatious Church. This unit will satisfy no retail ambitions. I don't think I am temperamentally suited to retail. JT will remain a workshop. Like Igarashi Trousers, which barely has any space for a customer to stand, much less does it have a showroom. https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE4MDM3MTA4OTE1MjQ2ODg3?igshid=jwdc6qgp2lg9&story_media_id=2236098943545281497_1418258733
  21. kotmj

    The Denim (contrast) Thread

    Yellow. To return attention to the garment...
  22. Nabilalif

    The suiting thread

    I see that you always developing. You dont want to be comfortable. I find that the idea above is genius and very practical.
  23. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    If you would watch the video above, you see the spring loaded bracelet of the Tudor Pelagos. It gives the bracelet elasticity. Now, look at what arrived today. It's the hook portion of a trouser hook-and-bar set. Like the Tudor Pelagos, it is spring loaded. It allows up to a 0.75" expansion of the trouser waistband. Over the course of a day, as your waist size changes, the waistband changes with you. Now Ambrosi really have to beg me to allow them to buy JT.
  24. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Done
  25. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Another one, this time with a pointed end to the strap
  26. takashi

    The suiting thread

    File a patent?
  27. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Once I'm done developing this, I will have the most genius side adjusters in the history of mankind
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