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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Maybe I'll shoot a balcony pic tomorrow
  2. 1 point
    Can someone tell me, what do people do when they work from home? When people are not consuming, what are people producing (from home)? Don't consumption and production go hand-in-hand? One cannot exist without the other. Please excuse me, I'm so limited. Reading the newspapers, I am lead to believe that people are very productively working from home. I presume they are producing something that a customer is paying for. Except, people are not buying much of anything nowadays. So what are all these millions of people producing from home? (Emails?) This must be the worst year in many decades for physical retail. My sympathy goes to the retailers. Here's a bit of consolation, a bit of beauty in rough times.
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    It took several years to get jeans off the ground. Much heavy lifting was required, literally and figuratively. These raw, mild steel rivets are very nice. I wonder if they are still nice when they rust. I applaud the customer for his choice of green thread. I applaud myself for steering him there. A daily companion in an easy-wearing 12oz Japanese selvedge denim. Featuring an unstretchable waistband for wear without a belt, full width double chamber front pockets for better segregation of coins, keys, wallet and phone, and with a practical zipper fly as requested by the customer. The edges of the fly have been decorated with a unique shell stitch. Rivets are in solid, raw steel. Cut to a pattern drafted uniquely for the customer, optimised for appearance and comfort.
  5. 1 point
    To reliably get a generous roll, I would have to train a coatmaker from scratch who has never known any other. Above, intern, voyeur's view.
  6. 1 point
    Wanted to take pics of this before I send it out to Australia. Here we did this strange and gratuitously elaborate method of securing the cuff. Trousers are in a cotton by Officine Paladino.
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  8. 1 point
    Vass F last in Museum Calf
  9. 1 point
    The Baselworld fallout is slowly causing heads to roll. Two days ago, the proprietor of Telebasel interviewed the chairman of MCH Group, the organiser of Baselworld. I had thought Telebasel would be state owned. But it was bought a few years back and is now private. That interview caused an uproar in Basel society, with many calling the interviewer arrogant and overbearing. A politician asked for his resignation. Newspaper editorials speak of a public relations victory for Visher, the chairman of MCH, because of the bullying by the interviewer. Here is the interview. It is supposedly German, but it is so regionally accented that I just barely understand it. https://telebasel.ch/2020/04/22/wie-meistern-sie-die-krise-herr-vischer/?channel=8950 The interviewer did it the BBC "Hard Talk" style. He confronted Visher with the persistent losses at MCH Group, and the shrinkage of Baselworld from 300 million Euros a few years ago to most lately 80 million Euros. He accused Visher of missing trends that have been ongoing for the last dozen years. He asked why aren't more expo/congress/fair experts---say from the automobile or tech industries---sitting on MCH's board instead of politicians and civil servants, all from Switzerland and none with experience in doing business internationally. He questioned MCH's strategy of trying a build an online community---you don't get a community without content, he said. Visher had nothing to counter this with. Visher complained several times during the interview that the interviewer was dismissive of the competence of the board, and of the progress that has been made in digitalizing Baselworld. Visher said he was not allowed to carry his message.
  10. 1 point
    C&J Lonsdale handgrade in 363 last.
  11. 1 point
    I've always wanted to write a comprehensive article about caring for suits. This morning, I thought I'd start by writing about moths. -------------------------------------------------------- The biggest threat to finely tailored suits is the common moth, also known as the clothes moth, Tineola bisselliella. Their destructive power has to do with their stealth and their efficiency. Having a length of only 6-7mm and a rather pale straw colour, the moth isn't very noticeable. Moreover, unlike the mosquito or the fly which seeks you out and buzzes around you, the common moth has no interest in humans and avoids us. Instead, it has a sense of smell keenly tuned to detect moths of the opposite sex, and natural fibers, in particular wool. But the moth doesn't eat the wool. In fact, the moth has no functioning mouth with which to feed. Female moths lay eggs in clusters of up to 200 eggs on an edible substrate---the wool. A few days later, these hatch into tiny larvae, which immediately begin feeding. The moth larva, though tiny, has a mouth that can cut through even tough synthetic fibers to get to the natural fibers on which it feeds. They have the ability to digest the keratin protein in wool and silk and actively seek these out. As it feeds on the wool the way a silk caterpillar feeds on mulberry leaves, the moth larva leaves behind holes in the cloth. The warmer and more humid the conditions, the faster the larva matures to the next stage---the pupal stage, where it spins a cocoon and eventually emerges as an adult moth. Under ideal conditions, the larva takes a month to reach pupal stage. The adult moth itself does not feed, having acquired all the nutrition it needs in the larval stage. It's only goal is reproduction. It has a lifespan of several weeks, dying a few days after mating. We can disrupt the life cycle of moths in several ways. The moth is susceptible to aerosol sprays, and can be killed this way just like mosquitoes. Moths are not particularly mobile; they scuttle about on the floor more than they fly. Look out for them at the bottom of your closet. This is the best way to keep moths at bay, because it is when they are most vulnerable. You can build a closet that has a mosquito netting behind every aperture, effectively stopping the moths from reaching your clothes. Periodically exterminating moths with mosquito spray will effectively break their life cycle. You may also kill moths by spraying your room with an insecticide. A widely used insecticide for moths is transfluthrin. Fumakilla's Vape One Push V is marketed for use against mosquitoes, but with 24% transfluthrin it is just as lethal for moths. It has the advantage of being widely available. A single spray directed at the ceiling will exterminate all flying insects within the room and repel new ones from entering the room for 12 hours. Dry cleaning will both kill and remove the eggs and the larvae from your clothes. If the garment is too fresh and clean to deserve a dry cleaning, a press with a warm iron will also kill the larvae by denaturing the proteins in it. In other words, you cook them with the iron. Protein denatures at temperatures above 41 degrees Celcius. However, due to the temperature gradient, your iron would need to be substantially warmer than this. The "wool" setting on your iron is approximately 160 degrees Celcius, and is certainly hot enough to kill them. So much for killing them. You may also repel them---discourage them from regarding your suit as an eat-all buffet. The age old solution was moth balls, if only its effective ingredient napththalene weren't toxic to humans and banned in the EU since 2008. It has another unfortunate side effect---its typical odour transfers to clothes, making you smell like a mothball when you wear them. Both of these disadvantages can be sidestepped with a single measure: use it very judiciously. Put just a very small quantity of them in your closet---two or three balls. That's enough to repel moths without having the other side effects. There are also modern moth killers/repellents with the active ingredient transfluthrin, mentioned earlier in this article, which you keep in the closet. Transfluthrin is odourless and safe when used according to instructions. It works like most insecticides do, being a nerve poison to insects but mostly harmless to mammals. Daiso sells them. But they have a huge disadvantage: you don't know when they're depleted because they do not announce themselves through their odour. For me, this makes naphthalene superior to transfluthrin as a repellent. Moths are everywhere. I've had suits brought back by customers from Puchong to London with moth holes. Keeping a vigilant eye out for small, winged creatures around your closet, keeping two or three moth balls in your closet, and the occasional dry-cleaning---or in lieu a press with a warm iron---will eliminate this problem.
  12. 1 point
    Documenting this crisp and pristine Levi's 501 1890 (9 oz.) reissue before I start breaking into it.
  13. 1 point
    The key to surviving covid isn't to be found in face masks and hand sanitizers. The way you counter it is in having a powerful immune system. You want an immune system that rapidly gains the upper hand over all invading pathogens. So I'm having an Ashitaba tea. A noticeably anti-inflammatory drink. I was never down with the flu in the last 8 years. Those few instances when I've had fever were due to mosquito borne diseases, which I recover without any help in 2 days. Recently, I was down with what I think is E. Coli for 1.5 days. That's how long it took for the food to completely pass through my digestive tract.
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    The rest of you get to see how suing someone for defamation works, from the inside. As always, I'll keep you all updated.
  16. 1 point
    I had a job interview today with a recent graduate in Civil Engineering who won the equivalent of the Dean's Award,with a cpga of 3.92. Straight A's in SPM etc. Between SPM and uni, she spent 9 months at Louis Vuitton The Gardens. She was deciding between another four years at school for a PhD, or doing something she really likes. For some reason, she thinks JT is extremely relevant to her. She asked for an internship. (BTW, once upon a time, I told a customer that I had a job interview yesterday. He said, but why? I thought you're doing what you love? I then told him I interviewed a potential hire.) After some prodding, I discover she has a problem with what she calls "office life". What's so bad about office life, I asked. She said it's not appealing to go to an office before the sun has properly risen, and to leave it only after it has set. I'm not sure how long I can do that for, she said. I didn't say much about that. At JT, we do not lose the connection with the sun. Our workspace is flooded with daylight.
  17. 1 point
    Going-ons in the workshop today
  18. 1 point
    Today, the co-founder of a Hong Kong tailoring business dropped by to have a chat. He started the business with two other friends about 2 years ago out of interest for good classic clothes. He's a young guy---much younger than me. Here he is: His mother was originally from PJ, but he was born in HK. Here's his watch. This is the FOURTH BB38 to come into the shop. It is a much hensem watch. We talked about our respective businesses for about an hour. It was very engaging. I learnt a lot. He, too.
  19. 1 point
    Bespoke jeans in 14.5oz Japanese selvedge denim. The waistband has been reinforced to prevent stretching, allowing wear without a belt. Below, the full-width double chamber front pocket. Cut, fitted and sewn completely on-premise.
  20. 1 point
    I ordered a pair of TLB loafers in dark brown suede from Yeossal as part of their black Friday sales. It just arrived and....it's too big for me. I've never worn a roomier UK7 than this. They are brand new, unworn. Size UK7. The perfect dark brown -- not too light, and not too dark that it seems black. And it comes in a mixed rubber + leather sole, which I always get when I get MTO. Super comfortable and durable, yet dressy enough. It's rare to find a non-MTO pair in this sole in a style I like, which is why I jumped on it. The shoes are lined but they are softer and more comfortable than my Carmina loafers somehow. https://www.yeossal.com/collections/black-friday-2019/products/martin-loafer-dark-brown-suede The discounted price I got it is SGD358. I'm willing to let it go at cost and without shipping fees/taxes at RM 1,100. . Since the fit is roomy, I bet many people can fit the UK7 of this pair. Let me know if anyone is interested. Need to move fast though as I'll need to decide if I want to return them. I can COD in the KL/PJ area, or thereabouts.
  21. 1 point
    Driven by one of the most luxuriously engineered quartz movements ever, the Grand Seiko SBGV245 is guaranteed to deviate no more than 10 seconds per year over atomic time. The quartz crystal was grown in-house by Seiko, and aged three months to reach a stable vibration frequency. The circuit of each movement was tuned to the individual quartz crystal within it. The quick set date switches instantaneously at a few minutes past midnight. The facets on the case were polished by hand against a rotating tin plate, giving an unparalleled luster. Both sporty and elegant, and with a 200 meter water resistance, the SBGV245 will accompany you in everything you do.
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