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stgrim

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About stgrim

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  1. Hi Sir, Are you still selling fabrics? If so would you have any in charcoal grey or even darker greys than that for offer? I would like solid colors only. You can email sherwyn@koa.sg directly. Thank you.
  2. stgrim

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Dear Sirs, I am looking for odd lengths of cloth for bespoke trousers, around 1.5m for each swatch. If you have any you feel would be suitable or have seen choice finds online, please drop me a PM and i'd be happy to follow up. Looking for winter fabrics, a classic grey flannel in particular, and any similar to those from epaulet's latest "factory finds" http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/rivet-chino-factory-finds-fw14-patterned-flannels http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/rivet-chino-factory-finds-fw14-speckled-donegal-tweed As well as any 8oz wool / linen for summer. Thank you in advance for your advice.
  3. stgrim

    Dress shoes

    Dear Sirs, I am looking to commission an MTO with Vass and would like to ask if anyone knows the most affordable and fuss-free way? Would it be to communicate with Vass directly and wire transfer the money? Looking to MTO a Vass Austerity Brogue in Plum Museum, Size 41.5, U-last. Thank you.
  4. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    I wonder if it could be that I'm simply not asking a full enough cut for the pants.
  5. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    Finally got back my very first suit done by Iris Tailor today, the collar has been tightened and the pants have been loosened for a fuller cut; but alas, my thighs have put on weight resulting in a messy fit. For your critique: Also tried on the baste for the new Lesser suit, please ignore pant fit as it is far too tight and Nani will be loosening it for a fuller fit. Stomach bulge is due to shirt pooling in the front due to lack of belt:
  6. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    How wide should the quarters of my SB Sport Coat in Smith Finnmeresco 4055X ideally be? Open like this? Or this?
  7. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    What do you guys think about vents? I personally like single vents as I feel it looks more elegant from afar. However,my understanding is that double vents allow greater ease of movement, but run the risk of pronouncing your rump if the coat is not cut properly. My first coat done by Nani had a single vent, and I intend to request the same for my second suit. But perhaps a double vent would be appropriate for the upcoming quarter-lined sportcoat done in the Smith Finnmeresco 4055x. My concept for this sportcoat is for it to be so airy and unrestricting that I could probably save a damsel who had fallen in to Lake Michigan without even taking it off.
  8. Firstly, thank you for your feedback. I will take better fit pics for your further comments once Nani returns my suit; front, back, both sides. 1" longer coat and consequently, a lower buttoning point has been duly noted. I think Nani was trying to achieve a really fashion-forward fit during my baste fitting and I mistakenly gave in to her. I will pay special attention to my right shoulder at the next fitting. Perhaps I had purposefully struck an unnaturally rigid pose in the first pic to "try" to make the coat look neat and the second pic is more representative of my natural stance; thus, there is indeed something wrong with the shoulders. The pics were taken after the suit had been dry cleaned and pressed by a possibly mediocre dry cleaner (you don't have much choice in a small college town). I will ask Nani to iron it to the best of her ability before I take my next set of pictures. Moving forward, I realise that ironwork is a crucial aspect of making your clothes "pop". Thus, I will invest in a decent iron and try to pickup efficient and appropriate ironing skills for each type of fabric and clothing. Thank you for the compliment. I also realise that there is still a ways to go before I achieve a complimentary fit to my body type. I cannot remember the exact lapel width, I believe it is 3"-3.25". I will ask for an additonal 0.25" on my next commission. Yes the suit was done up by Nani. As an objective evaluation (and this is only my opninion), her execution and handicraft is as good as it gets for the money in the South-East Asian region. However, she does not have as good an eye as say, kotmj, for adapting the cloth to your body type. She is also not concerned about creating a suit that is classy and evergreen, and prefers to recommend whatever the "trend" is. As such, if this is your first suit done with her, I would advise your to err heavily on the side of caution and absolutely micro-manage every detail with her. I did not realise this and the suit you see is a result of my ignorance. She may have tremendous experience in dressing certain body frames, such as fellow forumer, arc's, thus, resulting in his glowing reviews, but we should not take it for granted. I think the key value with Iris Tailor is that they are very flexible and open to customer's feedback. They do not insist on a "house cut" per se. I would take advantage of this and treat it an opporunity to have a suit done up to our exacting specifications. Of course, it would be a different story if I were to visit a tailor on Saville Row.
  9. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    Unfortunately I only had my crappy phone camera and it did not manage capture the text properly. I tried my best to colour correct it, I think it does say 4055X.
  10. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    My apologies, I thought it would link to the original image automatically. Fixed!
  11. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    Hi Guys, Just got back from Nani, unfortunately, she left my coat at home so no new fit pics. I committed to a fully lined light-grey 2-piece in H. Lesser 8/9Oz and another quarter-lined between-navy-and-royal blue sportcoat in Smith Finnmeresco 13Oz. I need to give her input on the lapel size (and any other critiques you may have spotted) based on my previous commission. What do you think of my lapel size? Just nice?
  12. stgrim

    The suiting thread

    Whilst I attempt to read all 211 pages of this informative thread, I wonder if fellow forumers have chanced upon any article(s) on the web which have distilled all the many details concerning bespoke clothing to look out for (how to look for a clean back, sloping shoulders, button stance etc, etc)? Something like a shortcut to assimilate the basics of suiting, from the perspective of the consumer or costumer. Thanks!
  13. Firstly, thank you all for participating on this forum. I feel it is extremely beneficial for local newbie menswear enthusiasts to have a platform to engage with more seasoned professionals who have developed their style in adaptation to the local climate and culture. I am writing this post to seek your advice on my next comission. I live in Singapore and am currently studying in the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign. A suit from Chris Despos remains a pipe dream and Iris Tailor's manufacture will have to suffice, though one might argue that five suits from Iris is better than one from Despos. I first started reading up on menswear and lurking on styleforum last December after looking at the reflection of myself in a fused G2000 suit I had purchased 3 years ago; it looked like I was wearing a sack and I sorely needed a proper suit to attend internship interviews with. It so happened that gshen's workshop was a short 5 min walk from my workplace and I popped in to pick up my first proper tie (school-issued ties don't count right?) as well as seek his advice on his preferred bespoke tailor. By the time I had my first fitting with Nani, I was only 2 weeks away from my depature for college. To her credit, we managed 3 fittings in that short span of time. I picked a midnight blue with (what my amateur hands felt to be) a good drape from the Dormeuil Regency collection on Nani's recommendation and hoped for the best. Alas, due to a severe lack of sartorial knowledge during the fitting and a severe lack of time in general, the final product, though excellent compared to any RTW or MTM piece, was less than desirable. When I put on the suit for the first time 3 months later, both the suit jacket and pants were too short, causing my stature to look a little off balance. The saving grace is perhaps that the Dormeuil cloth is ridiculously comfortable. See here for pictures of me in my new suit for the first time; would you agree with my opinion? I have since gone to Nani to see how we can mitigate the above issues. Will post more pictures once the suit has been returned. Now that I have more time in town, I want to achieve a better fit and finish on my future commissions. I have decided to order a medium-grey suit but am still undecided about exactly which cloth weight and manufacturer to use. The weather in Illinois during the first quarter of the year is extremely mercruial; it can snow to the degree of -17C one week and then change to a pleasant Spring 18C the next. We even had school cancelled in end March because the snow was up to a feet high! Thus, this being only my second suit, I would prefer a versatile "all-season" wool, perhaps in a shade along the lines of the picture below which I found in the "inspirational as heck all" thread. What do you think? Also deciding between a classic navy blue blazer (but maybe less gold buttons) or a sportcoat with patch pockets done in worsted wool for the transition into Fall and next Spring/Summer. I am rather enamoured by the idea of a coat which doesn't crease or lose its shape after being pulled out of a luggage. Would you guys be aware of any worsted wool available locally (whether in Iris' books or Hwa Seng or wherever else) that represents a particularly good value? Thank you in advance for all your advice!
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