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EmeritusMentor last won the day on July 3 2015

EmeritusMentor had the most liked content!

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  1. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Not at all. I have ordered Monti, Testa (including Romentino), Carlo Riva, Alumo, Grandi & Rubinelli and Carlo Barbera from MOP in the past, but have since cut back on my shirting purchases because I have too many unfunded liabilities. Separately, after reading this article (http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/gareth-mallory-blue-chalkstripe-suit/) and re-watching Gareth Mallory's scenes in Skyfall, I've come to reconsider my antipathy towards end-on-end shirtings. I would be grateful for any recommendations on the brands that sell end-on-end shirtings apart from Acorn (http://www.acornfabrics.com/fabrics/end-of-ends).
  2. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    MOP. I've tried Alumo Sea Island cotton before and while it is quite different from Alumo's other offerings, I felt that the difference in quality was not commensurate with the upcharge.
  3. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Harrisons Regency is another cloth in that weight range but feels quite soft and does not seem to drape that well. Looks beautiful though. Does the 11oz Cape Horn hang well?
  4. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Thanks for recommending the Cape Horn Classic. Seen the swatch books before and they are quite impressive. Especially the 662039, a navy sharkskin. Totally agree with the “drapes like steel” epithet where the pre-acquisition Lesser 9.5/10s are concerned. Very sadly though, the 100% wool version of that bunch would not be renewed because the Harrisons Frontier is a very similar cloth. I’ve heard excellent reports of the Frontier but have not tried it myself. Also heard a lot of good about the Crispaire and New Fine Worsted, which are in the same weight range. Recently I wanted to purchase the Finmeresco SW2955 but very sadly, that has been discontinued. I’m now on the lookout for a good navy pinstripe.
  5. The suiting thread

    Glad to be of assistance I shall lend my assistance again the next time you are too humild.
  6. The suiting thread

    Surely you understate your own influence. Thanks to you, Savile Row and Naples know what tailoring is. No need to be so modest
  7. Dress shoes

  8. Shirts

    Looks good overall, and I don't think the black thread is enough to ruin it but I would personally have gone with white. Soyella feels marvellous but in my experience it wrinkles way too easily, which tends to foment a rather unkempt look. Also, unfused collar are very comfortable especially when worn with a suit, but they just tend to look a little less flat and smooth than fused ones, and hence I find them less desirable for business shirts.
  9. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    I prefer Acorn Personally, the use of fancy catalogues would not induce me to buy cloth. As long as the cloth has a design I am looking for and appears to be durable and likely to drape well, I am not bothered with the catalogue it comes in as long as the samples are large enough and the labels are clear. I also find that I only stick to brands I am already familiar with. Seeing a fancy catalogue belonging to a brand unfamiliar to me in a tailor's shop would not induce me to buy the cloth. Edit: I will certainly continue to use the English brands (Harrisons and its subsidiary brands in particular) because I know that their cloth will fit my purposes. Only when a design and/or cloth composition/construction I am looking for is not available from them would I explore other brands.
  10. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    The British feels more luxurious, being a 140s, but I'm going to wait until I have made them up before I come to any conclusions.
  11. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    The G&R Cam 2000s that I received in October do not appear to be any worse than the ones I had purchased a few years ago. Afrodite sounds good. Recently I also received a few lengths of Testa, from the British (140 x 2 by 140 x 2), Zeus and Topazio (120s) qualities in Testa's main catalogue. I'm optimistic that they will turn out well. Edit: I should have referred to Sole Oro rather than Afrodite, as MOP pointed out. Thanks MOP.
  12. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    No problem. I have never felt the Ari before, but quite frankly, I like the Zevi even if it's not as luxurious as the Riva. It is also reasonably priced. Hence I've never had much cause to try the Ari.
  13. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    I have a Riva poplin shirt. MOP sold me the cloth. It does feel different - very luxurious, but also creases easily. Maybe I'm just a little uncultured when it comes to the very fine shirtings but I was not particularly blown away by it. I also found Alumo Soyella to be even more luxurious but again, creases very easily too. I probably will not be getting any more Riva business shirtings because wrinkle resistance is a lot more important to me than softness. Riva Lino Arsenal, on the other hand, has just the right amount of softness and luxuriousness, while retaining the somewhat rigid feel of linen. None of the other cotton-linens I have tried (Romentino Connery, SIC Tess Royal Voile Lino, G&R Zevi and Monti Zaffiro Lino) have felt as luxurious as the Riva. In my opinion the Riva Lino Arsenal combines the best of linen and cotton.
  14. The suiting thread

    Rundschau! Ok, I'll show myself out.
  15. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Looks like they're very light though. http://harrisonsofedinburgh.proboards.com/thread/37/barbera-collection