kotmj

This jacket spent 24 hours lying on the back seat of my car with two other jackets on it. Tomorrow, a part timer will press it.

I hear lots of stories like the above. You give a non-WIS a Rolex, and twenty years later, they're still wearing the damn thing. I think, it's partly to do with the high wearability factor, the timelessness (conservativeness) of Rolex's designs such that even older models do not look dated, and the superior ruggedness of built. Where other brands of watches are found with cracked crystals, deteriorated dials, corroded hands, and defective movements, Rolexes keep their youth extremely well. Better than any other brand. In this interview, he has quite a few of these stories:

Part Timer B sewing a canvas

I wrote to the supplier of MOP buttons: Hi S., I have a question. When the MOP buttons have been attached to the shirts and the shirts laundered, the buttons lose their gloss, becoming dull. I suppose the buttons were given a wax finish at the factory; this is then washed off by the detergent during laundry. Is there the option to have a polymer finish that is permanent? This way, the buttons remain glossy even after many washes. Cheers, Jeremy

I got my hands on an Oxwhite. The shirt was loaned to me. Review coming soon.

Nomos like an instrument, Rolex like jewelry.

Huberross Nevada. Bony, bumpy shoulders. Shirt in The Embassy St. Tropez (a zephyr).

I have another issue with the video! I've never seen anybody pad stitch a lapel like that. He either knows something the rest of the world doesn't, or he's the ignorant one. The rest of the world pad stitches the lapel in order to program the lapel to fold over, and after the fold, to curl backwards. To achieve this, the coatmaker holds the lapel in either a folded or curled position, then affixes this shape with pad stitching. This is very common knowledge. Even otherwise retarded KL coatmakers know this. The technique is best seen here, from 3:30 minutes onwards. Notice how, even after a single column of pad stitching at the lapel crease line, the lapel displayed a marked tendency to fold over. That Korean coatmaker was pad stitching the lapel with the lapel completely flat! Arhhhhh! Is that for real? I'd have fired that guy within 30 seconds.

The other issue I have with the video above is the type of chest canvas. Unless I'm very mistaken ( I don't think I am, I've been doing this quite a while now), it is THE CHEAPEST chest canvas money can buy. There must be one huge factory in China that churns them out in huge quantity. Because everyone in KL uses exactly that chest canvas, from RM600/suit uniform jackets for hotel staff to five-figure fully canvassed jackets by my competitors. They all use that exact type of chest canvas. Why? Because it's the cheapest, and it even sort of works. I have many issues with that type of chest canvas. I will spare you the list. It sort of works, but not quite. It works the way one of these cheap collapsible fly fishing rods advertised on American TV shows would work. People who are serious about fly fishing don't use them.

I think I follow no more than two or three tailors on IG, and a post by one of them came up on my feed. I almost fell off the stairs. You see what is a densely machine sewn canvas. Wow. I thought this would not be done by them. This is very prevalent especially in Asia. Every HK tailor whose canvas I have seen does it. Practically every Malaysian tailor does it as a matter of course---they're surprised anybody would hand sew the various canvas pieces together. They don't know it's even a possibility. If they want to work for me, I tell them it's not only a possibility, it is compulsory. Or I fire them.

Some buttons arrived yesterday

First suit in Huberross Nevada, a super high twist cloth. 10 oz. It's for a Malaysian working as a civil servant in Singapore. Interestingly, he went to the same secondary school as I did in Kuantan. Civil engineer. The double breasted vest was made for a different customer. I'm starting to have new observations about these very high twist cloths which I may write about.

In case anybody was wondering, I wore that trousers all morning and afternoon before that pic was taken.

My latest suit in Carlo Barbera Riserva 1911. As most of you know, for myself I prefer a rather roomy cut with moderate waisting. In general appearance, it's not that different from what, say, Brioni would aim for. When there is less ease than what you see here, a jacket ceases to perform normally. I'm very happy with the neck fit and shoulders.