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kotmj last won the day on February 2

kotmj had the most liked content!

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About kotmj

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    Bukit Rimau
  1. Trousers/Pant

    This is from the made to measure range. Can you please find out the difference between Ambrosi mtm vs bespoke.
  2. Trousers/Pant

    The trousers are practically new, yet the label is already coming off. This is not a knock on Ambrosi. It is a general problem with the sort of handstitch used to secure labels.
  3. Trousers/Pant

    What I hope to do is spend 1.5 hours creating a paper pattern from this trousers, to get a better idea of the features of the Ambrosi cut. I also need to look into the ironwork content. I suspect it is nil. Because, none jumped out at me, and because if there was ironwork, the Armoury guys would have the whole world know.
  4. Trousers/Pant

    A feature of Ambrosi's cut is a very high back rise, very apparent in the picture above. This high backrise has been reported by Crompton, too, with Ethan Newton remarking that it is a good thing. I've been mulling over this feature, but cannot say much at this point. I may try it out on select customers in my own practice to see what I learn.
  5. Trousers/Pant

    Ambrosi in action. Before taking these pictures, I tried to adjust the trousers so that they would correspond to the intention of the fitter, i.e. I tried to show them at their best.
  6. The suiting thread

    I wonder though if I should just buy a top-of-the-line machine with all the modern features. RM3500 new. Very good value, actually.
  7. Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    None of you are worthy of this! Not one. Unworthy!
  8. Shirts

    A JB customer came to collect some shirts. Non-fused buttondown in our bestselling non-iron cotton.
  9. The suiting thread

    A German sewing machine came up for sale. It's a model from the 1980's. It has no automation, i.e. no auto reverse stitching, no thread cutter. All it produces is a beautiful lockstitch, bottomfeed. Most of these machines were used in garment factories where they sew hundreds of garments a day in three work shifts. They are typically in pretty worn condition. This one, however, seems to have been very lightly used by a seamstress working from home. It's pristine. Asking price is RM800, a steal. I might send a lorry to go get it, sight unseen by me. Because I don't have the time to drive to Sri Kembangan to view it.
  10. Trousers/Pant

    The rear welted pockets and their pocket bags are executed in an identical fashion to any pants sewn in KL.
  11. Trousers/Pant

    Here, you see everything that makes an Ambrosi special and which constitutes 70% of the value added. You have a striped waistband made of shirting. Below it, you have the box pleated waistband curtain whose fold line has been pick stitched by hand in black thread. The waistband has been hand felled to the waistband curtain. The waistband curtain, the "Bauchhalter" (tummy restrainer) and the pocket bags are all made of a cheap herringbone polycotton. A special feature is that the front pocket bags have been slip stitched to the side seam allowance. The two buttonholes on the tummy restrainer were sewn by hand.
  12. Trousers/Pant

    Ask Salvatore.
  13. The suiting thread

    Had a Korean customer come in just now. I told him I know of a few Korean tailors myself. Like Vanni, I said. Oh, he said, I know Vanni too---they are opposite my office in Seoul!
  14. Trousers/Pant

    Talk of the button fly brings us to the front rise. It is a mind boggling 10.5" of front rise on a seat measure of maybe 39". Which means the crotch of the trousers are very low. Eventually, when I get to the fit pics, which may cause the collapse of the global Ambrosi franchise which triggers the global economic meltdown every pundit has been waiting for, you will see what this actually means. This is before I get into the back rise, which is interstellar.
  15. Trousers/Pant

    The buttonholes on the button fly are more functional than they are aesthetic. Not very edifying.