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kotmj last won the day on October 20

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About kotmj

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  1. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I stumbled upon the IG of what appears to be a freelance coatmaker in London. It really gives an insight into how the industry works. I was so surprised that she makes jackets for various houses on and off the Row. Multiple houses, one independent coatmaker working from a windowless room in a basement. She regularly makes for Huntsman, Connock & Lockie, Montague Ede, etc.
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The lamps are working great. They each contain a 40W tungsten halogen bulb. This is a rather moderate power, but three of them give a warm, pleasant illumination. A 70W bulb would be too intense and create hotspots.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    However, due to space constrains and other issues, Mahon moved out of Warwick Hall and into the first floor of a rural townhouse.
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've been asking myself why don't I like working, or being in this unit. Did you know I've never liked this place? (It's still much better than a unit in a shopping mall or a shoplot.) I then started asking myself what sort of space would make me happy to be in all day. Like, so nice, I don't even feel like going home. How would such a space look like? 1. It needs to be on the ground floor. 2. It needs to be situated in nature, or at the very least a garden. 3. It needs to have many windows to let in light. 4. It preferably faces the south because that sort of light is best. It turns out there is one tailor who had such premises. He liked working there so much, that he would rather take the train to London to see customers than to be situated in London. His name is Thomas Mahon and he used to work out of Warwick Hall. In fact, I'm quite happy if I have something akin to Philippe Dufour's workshop.
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Of course the handsewing station also makes a great place to have a drink while answering emails on a tablet/laptop while monitoring the traffic situation on the LDP.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Bought three of these lamps so I could use tungsten halogen bulbs instead of the LED lamp affixed to the ceiling. LEDs are so harsh. I've never liked them. I also created what I'm calling a handsewing station, comprising a desk, a swivel chair, drawers and a lamp. It looks very simple and a matter-of-course, but it took me several years and some reflection before it occurred to me I need something like this and that this is the optimal setup. The drawers contain all the threads and sewing implements. I've seen the workspaces of many, many sewing tailors, and none have a place dedicated to handsewing. They either do their handsewing while seated at their sewing machines, or at their cutting tables. Both are suboptimal for all sorts of reasons.
  7. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    https://paultan.org/2018/05/04/geely-design-chief-peter-horbury-on-creating-an-image-for-the-rising-brand-and-his-vision-for-proton-design/ ^ I really don't think the share price reflects the stuff coming to Proton. It's a mistake to think of Proton as Proton, only better. There is no more Proton. There is only Geely. How much would you pay for Geely?
  8. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Today, I added DRB-HICOM to my portfolio. There are two major portions to this company. One is Proton. The other is Posmalaysia+Poslaju+Alam Flora. They call the former Automotive and the latter Services. Revenues are about 50-50. Services has been making money and has showed solid growth due to the rise of online buying. But the profits have always been erased by the deep losses of Automotive. As a result DRB-HICOM is often seen in the red, occasionally making a profit then going back into the red. It reached a nadir in mid 2016 when the share price touched 86 sen. An announcement of three new models reversed the slide. The stock rallied. In mid 2017, the government gave a billion ringgit to Proton. Then shortly after, Geely bought half of Proton. The share price went to RM2.65 in February this year. Today, it's at RM1.93. I bought because I liked the turnaround story. Geely licensed 3 models to Proton in exchange for RM810 million, which DRB is paying for by selling Alam Flora to Malakoff. The Proton version of the Geely Boyue is coming in a few months. This will be followed by the VF11, an MPV. Then a crossover called the Binyue is coming. Turnarounds, if successful, cause the share price to really shoot up. I do not think the market has properly priced DRB-HICOM's much improved prospects. Proton has been transformed from a basket case living off government grants to becoming a proxy for Geely in ASEAN. The share price does not reflect this. So I bought.
  9. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've been reading Permanent Style lately. It occurred to me that a few years from now, when he has run out of tailors in Europe to review, we will see a series titled "Simon Crompton does Lucky Plaza". (That's Singapore)
  10. kotmj


    I asked him if he does a one-piece collar. He says yes.
  11. kotmj


    Giulio sent this back to me. I learnt a few things! In Italy, just like in Germany, they write their "1" just like that and use the comma as decimal point. They also use the metric system, unlike in KL where we use inches. He titled the sketch "margini cucitura camicia". Literally, margins seams shirt.
  12. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Are the lugs soldered on? Nearly every watch brand has retro-inspired pieces in their catalogues. I think of Zenith's Pilot Type 20. Longines is perpetually digging into their extensive archives for more models to bring back from the grave. Here the Longines Military Watch with fake flecks on the dial. I think what these resurrections have in common is these companies have created a structure that filters ideas. Because not every old watch is worth resurrecting in 2018. Their product developers must have come up with hundreds of ideas. There is probably a small group there whose task is to pick only those that would illicit pangs of desire in the buying public. These promising ideas then go to the designers who further accentuate the desirability for a contemporary audience. At Apple, Steve Jobs was like a one-man filter. The opposite would be car companies, where designs go through multiple stages of critique (including by external consultants), eventually ending at the BoD who either asks for a rework or okays a design. The process of product development is as important as the ideas. It shows when it's weak, as it is at JLC.
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've always wondered where Najib gets all his suits made. He was once seen in Canali Pavilion. I mostly assumed he gets them from a Canali-like brand but to a bespoke pattern. They might send them to him by mail from Italy, several dozens each time. An extremely reliable source told me today he gets them mostly from two sources. One is Jakel. The other source is an obscure tailor called British Tailor in Kuching. British Tailor was for years the largest customer for Scabal cloths in Malaysia.
  14. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Minutes ago, added Berjaya Food to my portfolio. It owns the Starbucks, Kenny Rogers and Jollibean franchises within Malaysia and a few other countries. I was dismayed to see Chryeis Tan on the board. She's one of Vincent Tan's daughters and does almost nothing with her life except going on perpetual and neverending holidays. I happen to follow her on IG. Doesn't one tire of being a full time tourist? This is really a play on the continued success of Stabucks within Malaysia. At a PE ratio of roughly 20X depending on how you want to calculate earnings, it's not cheap. But, revenues have never dropped, and Starbucks' SSS are still increasing. Historically, the stock has almost never traded lower than it does today. Yet, revenues were never higher. Like McD, Starbucks goes from strength to strength.