kotmj

That jacket was EUR3500.

The guy was extremely transparent in the video. No smoke and mirrors, and particularly afflicting London tailors, no superstition.

It's interesting to me that I understand every word, without having to strain or pay particular attention. It goes into my brain almost as if it were in English. Which is unexpected since I've not used German in many years. I was expecting to have to work my brain to understand it. This guy is very remarkable. Only 26 years-old, but is a fully integrated tailor who is actually reasonably good even at fit. There are other integrated tailors, but they tend to have spent decades to become integrated and even then are really poor in the fit department. I would watch documentaries about them and am just shocked at how amateurish they are at fit. What is more typical is the separation between those who cut and fit, and those who sew. To do both at a high level at 26 is truly remarkable. I see some weaknesses, but they are really minor. He'll figure them out in no time. I think he will become a towering figure in the German tailoring scene. His intelligence is reflected even in the way he organised his work space. So rational, so devoid of pomp and pretentions (stagheads, chimneyplaces, leather wingchairs, etc).

I was forwarded this video today. What a great work space he has, and such new and cool equipment.

Hmm, not as impressive as I thought it would be

Pressing

So, this is it. The idea I had last night turned into flesh today. Almost all buttonholes are terminated by a tack of some sort; either a simple loop tack, or a more elaborate bar tack. Here, you see an embroidered triangular tack at the end of each buttonhole. I have never seen this done anywhere. It is 100% an original idea. Going forward, I might have the triangle done in a different colour for a small colour accent. Sometimes, it is great to have colourful buttonholes, i.e. buttonholes which do not blend in with the cloth. But the effect can be too much. Having the triangle tacks in a contrasting colour isn't overwhelming because they are quite small.

Tomorrow, I shall unveil an innovation of seismic proportions. Subject to it turning out ok.

Another jacket awaiting attention on the hand sewing station

Yes. The hand sewing station received a major ergonomic upgrade today. Instead of the working surface at desk height (70cm), it has now been raised to bench height (90cm). This reduces fatigue from having to stoop over your work, or from having to bring the workpiece with your hands up to your eye. This makes the station even more like a watchmaker's bench. Something she made today:

For the picture, he tilts to one side

Latest plant & equipment addition. Vintage Singer button attaching machine. Industrial chic. Notice how narrow the table is.

Ultimately, only one shirtings group may survive in Italy. Albini. Which makes Thomas Mason. What about Grandi et Rubinelli, you ask? Only a matter of time before they, too,....

Today, I was told of the demise of two established industry players. One, Testa. It is insolvent and will be liquidated. This also means the Atelier Romentino brand is gone. Second, Sparkmanshop. It will also close down. Some profitable outlets will be sold to management. Its manufacturing facility in Cheras will be liquidated.