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kotmj last won the day on November 11

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About kotmj

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  1. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I had to measure to be sure. It's 3/8".
  2. kotmj

    Black tie attire

    Instead of hiring the usual writer to produce this, I drove up to here, Awana Genting (15 minutes from my house), to hammer it out. Using the writer will take one week and multiple revisions from me while my blood pressure goes up because I don't understand why she can't just read my mind. It's for the blog. Every day, the blog nets several visitors to my site through organic searches. I need to populate my blog with more such articles. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Perfect black tie: The 8 things you need to know to pull it off You may have received an invitation to a gala dinner. Or you may be the one sending the invitation---as the groom of a grand wedding dinner. You may even be the father of the groom or bride. Maybe it’s an awards night for your industry and you’re going on stage to receive an award, either for yourself or on behalf of your company. To pull off a convincing black tie, here are the 8 things you need to know about the classical---or canonical---black tie. It is the black tie worn on the Titanic; it is the black tie F. Scott Fitzgerald had in mind when he wrote The Great Gatsby. 1. Cloth There are really only two colours for a tuxedo. Either midnight blue, or black. Midnight blue is the darkest shade of blue before you get to a solid black. Many prefer it over a black for no other reason than it is somewhat unexpected and yet perfectly correct. But not just any black or midnight blue cloth---there are only two kinds of weaves which have the legitimacy that comes from long tradition: barathea, or faille. Each give a distinctive luster not shared by the other more common weaves like plain weave or twill. 2. Cut The dinner jacket can have either peak or shawl lapels. These are covered with a cloth that has a textural contrast to the cloth of the jacket. Pick satin for a flash of gloss, or grosgrain for a cool ribbed texture. To be correct, the jacket cannot have more than a single button on the front. On the back, it is commonly ventless. Unlike lounge jackets, dinner jackets use buttons which are covered in cloth. 3. Waist dressing Some form of waist dressing is expected. A cummerbund is most traditional, but anyone who has tried one may have found themselves constantly adjusting the position of it, adding to their anxiety levels. An alternative is a horseshoe vest. It has the advantage of a invariable position. 4. Shirt The dinner shirt is far from being a regular white shirt. Pick the wing collar for a bit of extravagance, or go for the more muted turndown collar. Cuffs are always in the French style so you may wear onyx-black cufflinks. There is a textured bib on the front of the shirt. This bib can be either pleated, or have a waffle texture (known as a marcella front). For maximum elegance, the front of the shirt is fastened not with regular buttons but with onyx-black studs. 5. Trousers The trousers have a satin strip of about three quarters of an inch width running along the outseam. When it catches the light, it gives the trousers maximum drama. Never opt for cuffs on dinner trousers. 6. Shoes Patent leather shoes are the most correct, but if you find yourself hesitating to make the investment, a well-shined pair of black oxfords is unlikely to be met with derision. 7. Neckwear Bowtie. Just that. Since it’s probably the smallest item in the ensemble, you may want to go the full monty on this and opt for the inefficiency, the impracticality, but the indulgence and luxury of a self-tied bowtie. 8. Context Lastly, the sheer and utter elegance of the black tie may cause you to look for every opportunity to wear it. Remind yourself that it is evening wear. The native habitat of the tux is a hotel ballroom. You should not be photographed wearing it on the beaches of Bali in full daylight with your bride.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    For an Australian customer. Normally, the coatmaker makes the canvas, but in this case I wanted a stiffer construction and a chestpiece that is longer than usual so I made one side myself. He then follows my example and makes the other side. Some customers benefit from a stiffer canvas due to what they are looking for in a suit.
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    A better view of the machine-sewn swelled edges. Swelled edges are more than just that line of machine sewing or pick stitching that makes the edges appear chunkier. They're also about what you do with the seam allowances. With regular jackets, the two seam allowances (one from the facing, the other from the forepart) are feathered, i.e. they have different widths to give the gradual transition. With swelled edges you want an abrupt transition, so both seam allowances are identical in width.
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Modelling a customer's jacket in H&S mesh jacketing. Machine-sewn swelled edges. 3" lapels. Very fancy lining. The customer is much taller with very square shoulders. Will be sent together with another suit and some shirts to London. He's a website/app developer, but finds himself in need of tailored clothes like these when presenting to/meeting with clients.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Finally, the buggers at Esquire Malaysia contacted me. It only took them seven years to do so. They have conceived of quite the advertorial package. The most sophisticated I've been presented with. I can imagine that for many brands, the proposal is super attractive. The cost is definitely high, but for many brands perfectly realistic. I wonder if I should blow so much working capital on it. They refer to it as an "investment". I see it as just another cost. The way they expose you is all encompassing. They feature you on their print and web magazines, run your ad, and talk about you on all their social media sites. For two weeks. What they ask for in return almost looks cheap (but isn't).
  7. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Just came back from Bernama. I met with the producer I've been working with, and met another producer, the one who does the English language portion of Bernama News Channel. He wants me to outfit his hosts, but has to let the current contract with another sponsor expire before he can make the switch to JT. He also thought it would be a great idea to have me on Bernama Today, for short segments talking about clothes. This will be a recurring thing. I'm also making a suit for the COO of Bernama News Channel. He has always been COO. Few people know this, but throughout my involvement with Bernama, I've not met a Najib supporter. They were all virulently against the previous administration. As the election approached, they put up more big pictures of Najib on the walls, but they were loathful of the guy. Even the senior management loathed him. One of the hosts I outfitted, Dato Dahlan, has left the station to become a political secretary to Anthony Loke. He previously was fired from his hosting job by Rosmah for making the wrong noises about her on Ruang Bicara, but after the controversy cooled, his boss quietly reinstalled him.
  8. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Grand Seiko snowflake in titanium. Belongs to a customer. It's really very lightweight. Still prefer my Datejust over it.
  9. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    One of the great enigmas for me is how Vincent Tan amassed his wealth while the companies he spawns do so poorly. He gets richer and richer (one would assume, since he started off from nil), but most of his companies go nowhere. (Some go somehwere---they go bust.) I've always wondered how the great capitalists get so unbelievably rich, while practically all those who work for them remain broke. Those who invest alongside them (those who own the "floating" shares), too, would have seen very little income. A recent transaction Starbucks went into sheds some light onto the mystery. I've been thinking about this transaction for the past two weeks, the way one would reflect on the profound and counterintuitive moves of a chess grandmaster. Capitalism is not my field; it took me a while to understand this move of Vincent's. In August this year, Vincent instructed Starbucks (a company he controls) to buy a unit adjacent to its current outlet location at Berjaya Times Square from a certain Deru Klasik, a shell company owned by Vincent's daughter and relatives. Deru Klasik purchased the property 15 years ago from presumably another Vincent-controlled company for RM3.83 million. Starbucks engaged a property valuator who valued the property at the price Starbucks purchased it for --- RM12.43 million. An incredible value appreciation for a property that pretty much belongs to the "distressed" category. (Berjaya Times Square is loss-making.) That's it. That's the transaction. When I read about it, I felt there was something profound here I need to unravel. It's Vincent's way of very assymetrically benefitting from Starbucks' success while bypassing the other investors. It's his way of paying himself a very good dividend without sharing it with the other investors. Starbucks has accumulated some cash which it doesn't immediately need; so Vincent sold it a property he owns at an optimistic price. This way, that cash goes to Vincent's pocket. The other investors get nothing. The company gets a unit at a mall that is loss-making. Starbucks could have done five thousand other things with that 12 million. The idea of a cafe chain BUYING an outlet instead of leasing it is ridiculous. Companies are all trying to be asset-light. For instance, AirAsia sold all the planes it owned to a company then leased them back. The planes are on that company's balance sheet, not AirAsia's. AA plans to invest some of that money into its digitalization initiatives (growing new businesses) and paying the remainder back to investors in the form of a special dividend. It is laughable for Starbucks to fucking buy the shop it is in. RM12mil is a very significant sum for Starbucks. The last four quarters, Berjaya Food (whose earnings are more than 100% attributable to Starbucks since the other divisions are loss making) only made RM2mil net profit. Of course, if that unit belonged to anyone else, Vincent would never think of getting Starbucks to buy it. The only reason Starbucks was asked to buy it is because it belongs to Vincent. I think if you scrutinize Vincent's career as a capitalist, you'll see this pattern or some variant thereof, repeated everywhere.
  10. kotmj


    That would be a separate book. Pre-order also available.
  11. kotmj


    Believe it or not, it is actually possible to write a whole book about the shirt. Not the actual tailoring thereof, but just the very many interesting aspects of every part of the shirt. You'd think such a book would exist in the English language given the extreme prevalence of shirts, but it doesn't.
  12. kotmj

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Hi Adeline, It's been a long while! It just occured to me StyleFile may be interested in interviewing the Managing Director of a cloth mill with six production facilities in the UK. David Gallimore of Luxury Fabrics, the company that owns the brand Standeven, travels once a year around the globe to meet with his customers---tailors like myself. I met with him in KL last year, and he just informed me he will be in KL again the whole of the 27th of November. He has spent his entire career in the woollens business. Standeven makes the cloth that tailors use to make suits with. Let me know if there's a fit. Cheers, Jeremy
  13. kotmj


    My book on the Oxwhite shirt is coming out soon. Available for pre-order.
  14. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I've done such a poor job of putting more attention in fostering relationships with people in the media, and in creating more visibility for the brand in general. Also very behind in creating campaigns. I mostly just organise the making of clothes. Been trying to see how this can be solved; maybe I should work with a freelance PR person who is responsible for all marketing-related relationships. My problem is, I'm not personally interested in relationships. I'm not a people person nor am I sociable. That's not to say I do not like people. People like me enough. It's just I'm very passive when it comes to relationships. Marketing through media outlets is 100% about relationships.