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kotmj

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Everything posted by kotmj

  1. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    On the way back from fittings at Wisma Bernama
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Carlo Barbera Assoluto
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Let's kick off this thread with a jacket I found in the workshop. The owner of the jacket had brought it to a cutter to have it copied. The cutter, in turn, gave it to the coatmaker with a "Nah, copy." To be clear upfront, I do not like this coat. Let's look at the coat. What catches the eye first is the barchetta breast pocket, immediately signalling a Neapolitan origin. The second element that announces itself is the miles upon miles of super-obvious pick stitching, which upon closer inspection, reveals a machine origin. Once upon a time when tailoring was still honest, pick stitching is supposed to be as inconspicuous as possible. It says so in every tailoring textbook. It also actually had a structural function of keeping edges crisp, or of holding pieces of cloth together. This particular pick stitching, OTOH, is purely decorative and is so loosely sewn, it has no hope of holding anything together. What really bothers me about this pick stitching is that you find it even on the front dart. What purpose could it possibly play there? Indeed, it is unfortunate we need front darts to achieve shape, which is why tailors press it so flat so as to make it less obvious. Puttting in a row of that super-puckering pick stitching makes the darts draw attention to themselves. But notice also the severe puckering around the front of the sleevehead on both sides. It is clear the coat has been dry cleaned before, and by a second-rate dry cleaner at that. The buttonholes were machined, but I have to say they are very good imitations of hand-sewn buttonholes. The lapels are padded by machine. Everything about this jacket is machined. In the picture immediately above, you notice black and burgundy shapes in the blurry background. I shall have more to say about those. They just could not let go of the pick stitching. You find more of that obnoxious stuff on the inside of the jacket. I have never seen anything more exuberantly pick stitched. Hah, made in Spain, eh? But why the barchetta? Here's why: Which explains everything. The black and burgundy shapes belong to a very expensive jacket in the making. It represents the successful conclusion of a salesman's salesmanship, and it is an embodiment of somebody's dream of elegance. Both the cloth and the lining is Loro Piana. Unfortunately, it is black, and it is fused.
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    But will it enable me to be on the golf course by 5:30?
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Brand new pants. Standeven Masterpiece Super 150's. Oxwhite shirt.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Well, this is it. Finally.
  7. kotmj

    Gloriously off-topic

    Last night, a loud, soulful howl from right outside the house. Like a wolf's. It was her.
  8. There is a yellow-black female feral cat that likes giving birth in my attic. I work directly below the attic, so I can hear the sounds of the newly-born kittens. A few months back she had a litter. On a rainy Sunday morning, when I went back up to the workroom after a coffee break below, there was a dripping wet kitten right below the cutting board. It was deposited there by the mother. After some reading up on the topic, I found that mother cats regularly abandon their kittens. Some kittens get rejected right after birth. The mother would give it no attention. Some kittens get killed by the mother. Some are deposited near humans in the hope that the humans would take care of it. The wet white kitten was barely a week old because its eyes have not yet opened. It was very feeble, having been meowing a long time without food. It just kept meowing. I see no way to keep it alive. So I decided to give it a swift end. I put on some disposable gloves, and going out to my balcony, threw it up high into the air. It then dropped some 20 meters onto some roof tiles below and was never heard from again. Today, there was incessant meowing behind the door that opened to the attic. I opened it and saw a tan kitten. It looked me in the face for a moment, then scampered away. I chased, but it went into a dark through that I couldn't reach. It was still meowing a few hours later. It was obvious the mother had abandoned it. The mother's litter was elsewhere in the roof -- this kitten had been segregated and left to its own fate. One of its eyes was severely infected -- it was only half open and covered in green pus. Otherwise it looked quite healthy, and is at least 3 weeks old. I had to do something about it because otherwise it would die in the attic and smell really bad. It would also be death by dehydration or starvation -- not a good way to die. But this was an energetic kitten that could see. It hid from me. It saw me as a threat. I had to bait it so I could capture it. I fetched my laptop, went on youtube, and played some videos of cats meowing. Did it respond! It meowed right back! I had to play a few videos of cats meowing but saw that the kitten responded strongly to a vid of another 3-week old kitten meowing. I played it on loop. The tan kitten meowed the whole time in synch with the vid, and started coming closer. Eventually it came so close that I could reach out and catch it. It was immediately obvious to me that I cannot kill this kitten. It was healthy, it was conscious. So I went on the internet to find out how to care for abandoned 3-week old kittens. The last 4 hours I have been preoccupied with the kitten. I hand-fed it with some milk injected via a contact lens solution bottle. I bathed it in a warm tea tree oil soapy water -- the water was brown with dirt! I also saw that it suffered from lice infestation -- its skin was covered in lice. I dripped contact lens solution onto its eyes (the solution is antiseptic) -- the infected eye cleared up rapidly, within hours, and looks normal now. The kitten is now sleeping in a Muji silicone laundry basket with some wrapping paper over it (kittens, I found out just now, like to be under something, they dislike being in the open all exposed). ^3-week old feral kitten sleeping in a silicone laundry basket
  9. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    I think they have the same caliber.
  10. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    Me wearing "6"'s Sea Dweller. Two Rolexes. One dressy sport, the other sporty dress.
  11. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Maximally orthodox
  12. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    She's still tweaking the logo. In the meantime, I paired it with some unorthodox typography. Fresher than using gravestone fonts.
  13. kotmj

    Shirts

    Also the launch of Sava Jeans.
  14. kotmj

    Shirts

    Just received two lengths of shirtings today. A French blue pure linen and a cream cotton-linen. Can't reveal the source though. I watched "1911" last week and the costuming was very authentic. Every shirt in the movie was made of linen. It turns out that despite what the Chinese wore on the outside -- silk or wool -- they always had linen next to their skin in the form of a shirt. I totally understand why.
  15. kotmj

    Shirts

    While watching Netflix and eating dinner, the best idea of 2019 (so far) came to me. Customers were consistently telling me that their workplaces have become extremely dress casual. People are literally going to work in T-shirt and jeans. The thought came to me I should shoot a model wearing T-shirt and jeans, but with a great jacket as well. The message I hope to get across is, sure, go ahead with T-shirt and jeans, but when the situation warrants it, put on an incredible jacket and demolish the others. I know just the T-shirt supplier to use: Buttonwell. It might be a joint marketing campaign!
  16. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    The problem with the Hublot Classic Fusion, it occurred to me, is that it tries hard to be different from other watches. It tries to stand out by being different. The Datejust tries only to be a very good daily wearer. It tries to be a very good watch, not a distinctive watch.
  17. kotmj

    The watch appreciation thread

    I sold my Ball Engineer II today. Ever since getting the Datejust, I simply lost interest in wearing my other watches. It's the Datejust everyday. The buyer is a watch dealer who was wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion. I asked to see it. It has a complex case design. Though a very expensive watch, I failed to be impressed. It has a cheapish look to the dial. The watch is large, but the movement is tiny. The case is the best part about it. Ultimately, if asked to chose between them, I still prefer my Datejust.
  18. kotmj

    Latest hauls

    I think it's called "duckshit green". Congrats on the great jacket.
  19. kotmj

    Latest hauls

    Here's something unusual I just bought. A schoolboy's "snake belt". Very stretchable, apparently. Did some research and apparently they held up grey flannel trousers like these "A simply fabulous pair of vintage grey flannel button front short trousers. There are no labels that indicate when the shorts were made. They are a 34" waist and are fully lined. They have a traditional 4 button fly, side adjusters, brace buttons, side pockets and one rear pocket. The shorts also have narrow belt loops to accommodate a snake belt. They have an inside leg length of 3.5". They are made from heavy weight wool flannel and are superb quality. These shorts are in very good condition and have no major faults or marks. One pair only!" No intention of wearing them with flannel, just jeans and chinos! PS: Everything about snakebelts! http://histclo.com/schun/country/eng/gar/other/sue-belts.html
  20. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Just saw the latest iteration of the logo design. It's very good.
  21. kotmj

    Shirts

    Lost weight. Caught what might be the flu which went on for weeks. Just about recovering now.
  22. kotmj

    Shirts

    Forgot to post this earlier. Me in my Oxwhite.
  23. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Today, I accepted the first-ever order for a fully canvassed jacket for a woman. A DB, no less. I normally categorically refuse to make for women, unless it's for undemanding suits like corporate uniforms. It's partly my lack of familiarity with this genre of tailoring, and partly how there is so much unexplored territory in menswear that I don't feel the need to go into womenswear. I never really had to reject that many requests though. Women tend to buy their simple, inexpensive suits off-the-rack. This female customer today is the wife of an existing customer. I made her husband his wedding jacket four years ago. Here's what he wrote to me to secure an appointment. Hi Jeremy, Happy new year! Hope this e-mail finds you well. It has been a while--you made me a double-breasted linen jacket that I used at my wedding about 4 years ago. You'll be happy to hear that it's still going strong (as is the marriage thankfully). I'd like to commission a fully-canvassed suit from you please. ...... It turns out the wife took a strong liking to her husband's DB, but her husband wouldn't allow her to wear it. Both husband and wife ordered clothes today: a suit for the husband and a jacket for the wife. While I may not have seen him in four years, he has sent at least one of his colleagues my way---a partner from the SG office of BCG who ordered two suits.
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