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kotmj

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Everything posted by kotmj

  1. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Let's kick off this thread with a jacket I found in the workshop. The owner of the jacket had brought it to a cutter to have it copied. The cutter, in turn, gave it to the coatmaker with a "Nah, copy." To be clear upfront, I do not like this coat. Let's look at the coat. What catches the eye first is the barchetta breast pocket, immediately signalling a Neapolitan origin. The second element that announces itself is the miles upon miles of super-obvious pick stitching, which upon closer inspection, reveals a machine origin. Once upon a time when tailoring was still honest, pick stitching is supposed to be as inconspicuous as possible. It says so in every tailoring textbook. It also actually had a structural function of keeping edges crisp, or of holding pieces of cloth together. This particular pick stitching, OTOH, is purely decorative and is so loosely sewn, it has no hope of holding anything together. What really bothers me about this pick stitching is that you find it even on the front dart. What purpose could it possibly play there? Indeed, it is unfortunate we need front darts to achieve shape, which is why tailors press it so flat so as to make it less obvious. Puttting in a row of that super-puckering pick stitching makes the darts draw attention to themselves. But notice also the severe puckering around the front of the sleevehead on both sides. It is clear the coat has been dry cleaned before, and by a second-rate dry cleaner at that. The buttonholes were machined, but I have to say they are very good imitations of hand-sewn buttonholes. The lapels are padded by machine. Everything about this jacket is machined. In the picture immediately above, you notice black and burgundy shapes in the blurry background. I shall have more to say about those. They just could not let go of the pick stitching. You find more of that obnoxious stuff on the inside of the jacket. I have never seen anything more exuberantly pick stitched. Hah, made in Spain, eh? But why the barchetta? Here's why: Which explains everything. The black and burgundy shapes belong to a very expensive jacket in the making. It represents the successful conclusion of a salesman's salesmanship, and it is an embodiment of somebody's dream of elegance. Both the cloth and the lining is Loro Piana. Unfortunately, it is black, and it is fused.
  2. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The problem I have with people like Syed is the same problem I have with the Najibs, Rosmahs and the Zahid Hamidis of this world. I'm not sure where it comes from, but somehow, many of us grew up with an innate sense of truth and of fairness. We want to behave in a way that meets our own standards, even if external conditions allow us to behave worse. If we behave in a way that doesn't meet our own standards, we feel dismayed at ourselves. Many humans have this. It's called a conscience. When a person, or groups of people are without this self policing ability, they will do anything for their own benefit that they think they can get away with. There is no longer an objective truth. There is no honour. There is only opportunism. I have met several of these individuals over the years. They are however in the minority. The vast majority of humans behave to a relatively high internal standard.
  3. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I was going through an older SD card when I found a pic of Syed's final fitting. My lawyer now has it. We're suing him at the High Court. Hopefully before the end of the year, he will owe me the equivalent of a Rolex Sky-Dweller.
  4. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I made that grey 3-piece, at a time when I was very vitamin D deficient.
  5. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Sultan in Escorial Toledo, a 3-ply high twist Panama weave. Customer works in Singapore.
  6. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Yeah. Can't taste that bad.
  7. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Another wonderful video of how a Hamburg tailor works. He deferred to the customer's wish for a questionably short jacket. The amount of work put into the suit boggles the mind.
  8. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    What a great interview!
  9. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    To contrast this, a few days ago, another guy came in with his fiancé. He ordered several suits. The fiancé was behaving perfectly naturally. When she looked at me, she was hiding nothing. I have no problem taking their order.
  10. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The fiancé has every intention of extracting "maximum value" from the transaction and expects me to be deferential to her. But why would I be? I am of far greater accomplishment than she ever will be. She's about the age of my employees. How do I extricate myself from this transaction? I haven't invoiced them or anything.
  11. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    A guy came in with his fiancé for a wedding suit. I can tell the fiancé is already preparing the ground for an antagonistic relationship with me, the tailor. She was unimpressed with pretty much anything. She wasn't warm in dealing with me. She was trying to be subtly disagreeable. The guy has heard about me since donkey number of years ago and reads this forum and is eager to go ahead with the suit, and so is she, but she will make life difficult for me. He doesn't perceive this. I perceive this because I've been doing this 8 years. How do I recuse myself from making him his suit? I don't want his business. I feel privileged to have met him, but I don't like to deal with such a fiancé.
  12. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I get to be something of a consultant on this project.
  13. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Every year, there is a Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week KL. Employee #2 was invited to compete. He is currently making the clothes he sketched above, working on them after working hours and on his off days.
  14. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    That's not a problem my lawyer will have with me. I have to prepay. Jajaja.
  15. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    I wonder how much gopal charges per hour. If someone had told me how much lawyers make per hour when I was 17, I'd have studied law instead of engineering.
  16. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The cute lawyer with flawless baby skin is there just for the paperwork. The uncle with 20 years experience still leads the charge. Reflecting on my conversation with him today, I've come to realise the perspective /mindset I should bring to the case. You simply assume the defendent has a compelling narrative that would cause a judge to completely side with him and who moreover has evidence to back his every defence. And worse, he is represented by Gopal Sri Ram. Assuming all those, what can we do on our side to nonetheless win?
  17. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    So I met with my lawyer today. He started by attacking my position. There are definitely weaknesses in my case, and he kept prodding the weak spots. He did not sound like the guy I'm paying thousands of ringgit to. He questioned me like Syed's lawyer (when he eventually gets one) would. After a long discussion, he tried to map out a narrative that would give us the best advantage. He tells me nobody tells the truth in court. You tell the version of the truth that is most advantageous. He tried to anticipate the narrative Syed will bring to court. What is the most damaging story he can bring and back up with evidence? I began to realise this is war. He then wondered whether to file this at the Sessions Court or High Court. The judges at the High Court are more predictable because they've worked as judges 20 years or more. The whole time, my lawyer behaved as though we are about to lose this case. We need a stronger case! We need more evidence! I guess he thinks that if you are paranoid about not losing, then you will win. He assigned my case to a young, fair and cute little early-twenties lawyer.
  18. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    By and large, the party who sues in a defamation case has a higher chance of winning than the defendent. Actually, much higher. This is because it is the defendent who has to prove the veracity of his statements. If he says the plaintiff cheats customers' money, then he has to produce evidence for it. He might say the plaintiff curses and disrespects customers over the phone. He now has to produce evidence for it. The burden of proof is on the defendent. The plaintiff (the party who is suing) only has to show that the statements are defamatory, and if possible show that malice was involved. After he has done that, the defendent now has to prove his statements are either true, or they were honestly held opinions based on the facts available to him and were expressed without malice. He then has to show that he had gone to some trouble to verify the facts are true before making the statements. The plaintiff can counter his defence of fair comment/honest opinion by showing that the defendent never actually believed what he said was true. This is called malice. So you see, a defendent has to do a lot of convincing and his chances are not good. His chances are close to nil if he makes various statements attacking multiple aspects of a plaintiff's character. Because now, he has to bring evidence for them all. I wonder what I shall do with the settlement/damages. Should be at least rm50k.
  19. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    The rest of you get to see how suing someone for defamation works, from the inside. As always, I'll keep you all updated.
  20. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    Because Syed left a highly defamatory review on my Google page depicting JT as a sham. It will cost him a great deal of money in damages. Both JT and a pretty smart lawyer are working very intensely to nail him.
  21. kotmj

    Garment maintenance

    How Indian roadside dobbys iron shirts
  22. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    BTW, now that I have read the judgements of so many court cases, I have come to realise one thing. It is this: You do not want to run a JMB, the sort that manages a condo. You have no idea how much conflict there is in joint management bodies. So many court cases revolve around JMBs. Also, now that I've clearer insights into the psyche of a customer, I realise that there is such a thing as a nightmare job. A job so bad, no matter how much thought and energy you put into it, you cannot win. You know what that job is? The headmaster of an international school in Malaysia. That's a nightmare job. Not dealing with the kids, no! That's the easy part. It's dealing with the parents that's the nightmare, specifically with the mothers.
  23. kotmj

    The suiting thread

    A 23-year old guy comes in with mother and sister wanting a suit for his convocation. Mother picks the cloth. First muslin fitting: Suit is too tight. Sister takes pictures for mother. Second muslin fitting: Suit is no longer too tight, but he claims it is tight. Takes pictures for mother. Third baste fitting: Customer seems quite pleased. Kept nodding his head in approval. Asked me to take pics for his mother. A day later, tells me his mother doesn't like the suit and he wants a refund. Deposits are not refundable (otherwise there is no point to it) but I said, OK, but only possible if the mother comes collect the cash herself. Mother refuses to come. Insists deposit be given to son. Son kept calling me, trying every which way to get the money. (Note that there was no completed suit. He wanted a refund at the fitting stage---based on his mother's opinion of pictures of a baste suit WhatsApped to her.)
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