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holymoly

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Everything posted by holymoly

  1. holymoly

    Shirts

    lol I dislike shirt pockets. I never use them.
  2. holymoly

    Dress shoes

    Bit of nasty swipe eh? Yuya Hasegawa of Brift H won in 2017.
  3. holymoly

    Dress shoes

    World Championships in Shoe Shining 2018 https://coconuts.co/singapore/news/worlds-best-shoe-shiner-26-year-old-singaporean-man/ John Chung, 26, emerged as top dog in the World Championships in Shoe Shining 2018 last month — an actual annual competition organized by leading authorities on classic men’s shoes at the London Super Trunk Show. The founder of Singapore’s first artisanal shoe shine bar Mason and Smith went head to head with fellow finalists from UK and France, and it was Chung who impressed the judges on color, shine, and finesse.
  4. holymoly

    Shirts

    The single ply Meander 71 doesn't feel warm. Just a little too translucent and a little too 'shiny' for my liking. Just found out that it is tough to iron out the creases as well. LOL
  5. holymoly

    Shirts

    Button-down shirt Fitting
  6. holymoly

    Shirts

    Soktas Linda Meander 71 66% Cotton 34% Linen Very light and porose, relatively less prone to wrinkles than pure linen. Single ply. Horizontal unstructured fine white lines across. Translucent with light, suggested as shirt fabric for hot summer days. 2nd from right chosen as test shirt
  7. holymoly

    Gloriously off-topic

    Gotta have wifi to answer emails. And porn for lonely nights.
  8. holymoly

    Gloriously off-topic

    Does it have wifi?
  9. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    I actually love this, but there are a few small things that bug me. 1. The spread of the collar needs to be bigger. For such a coat, it needs to have presence. Right now the collar size makes it look weak. Collar looks misaligned too - but I will give it a pass. 2. Buttons too close to the edge of the fabric. 3. The skirt needs to be robust and flared. 4. Personal taste is to have adjustable cinched waist at the back. 5. Kinda wish that you carry the chevron design from the sleeves to the back and pockets.
  10. holymoly

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Did you inform Derek? The initial run, he offered in half meter increments.
  11. holymoly

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Posts #1506 and #1507 on this thread http://thekerbau.com/topic/88-collateralised-debt-aka-the-cloth-thread/page-76
  12. holymoly

    Prologue HK Trunk Show Jan 6th & 7th 2018

    Congratulations takashi for what looks like a successful trunk show! Too bad I cannot spend the weekend there.
  13. Mostly an enclave to house discussions relating to digital cameras and lens; and to share photographs, preferably one's own. Yes, including instagrams. Jeremy should be happy about this...
  14. holymoly

    Prologue HK Trunk Show Jan 6th & 7th 2018

    I prefer the colour cream than white for pants. White can be so stark and bright when new. Cream often avoids most of the see-through of white.
  15. holymoly

    Everything Digital Photography

    Do you want to take a punt with a Kickstarter campaign of a Biotar 75mm f1.5? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/315452809/the-rising-all-star-team-returns-legendary-biotar?ref=nav_search
  16. Thought some of you might appreciate this listing. If you are in the market for one. From US of A 1. Filson http://www.filson.com/ 2. Archival http://store.archivalclothing.com/ 3. J.Panther Luggage Co. (J.P.L.C.) http://jplc.com/index.html 4. Parrott Canvas http://www.parrottcanvas.net/ 5. Frost River https://www.frostriver.com/ 6. Duluth Trading http://www.duluthtrading.com/ 7. L.L. Bean http://www.llbean.com/ 8. Woolrich http://www.woolrich.com/woolrich/ 9. Ernest Alexander http://www.ernestalexander.com/ 10. Want Les Essentiels de la Vie http://www.wantessentiels.com/us_en/ 11. The Hill Side http://www.thehill-side.com/ 12. Blue Claw Co. http://www.blueclawco.com/ Easiest decision: Filson. Ubiquitous. Easy to find. Easy to sell. Massive thread on Styleforum. One more thing: warranty. Filson is customer-focused and has a generous replacement policy. Many people in the market for a canvas bag gravitate towards Filson because the buying decision is so much easier, with a well-backed warranty.
  17. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    Not every cutter is good at customer interfacing. The latter does need some technical skills which may include helping the customer determine the fabric choice, sketching an overall design, picking out previous drafts (if pattern was already made), pinning excess fabric. Right now you are already the cutter. What you are trying to do now is 'progressing' to the next phase of business: being the proprietor of the business and leaving the manual labour to others i.e. by hiring a cutter.
  18. holymoly

    A rekindled love of canvas bags

    Just a tiny warning to those consider Billingham and Brady rubberized canvas as somehow better than the other types of canvas available elsewhere. I have handled older Billinghams and they do show delamination. Billingham has acknowledged this in the past (circa 2011?) that the rubber will delaminate in older bags, and will harden/crack/deteriorate over time. In our climate, this process is likely to be more accelerated. Once you see delamination, it is likely that the bags will not be waterproof (or stormproof as Billingham calls it). Also, if you do buy Billingham camera bags, the warranty is on the bag itself and not on the foam inserts. The foam inserts will disintegrate and you will need to replace them on your dime. Here is the new Hadley One. The Hadley now has a carrying handle. The shoulder strap comes with a shoulder pad. The laptop sleeve is now fixed but still lightly padded. The camera inserts can be fastened down. The rear zipper is a YKK rainproof one. Importantly, it now has a luggage pass through for luggage handles so that one can have brief moment of respite for those aching shoulders while trying to look cool jetsetting. I hope I resist the temptation to go to the store to see it.
  19. holymoly

    A rekindled love of canvas bags

    Let us know how your thrifting in Japan works out. I did not find that bags in thrift ships were all that attractively priced from my previous attempts. Perhaps it is the currency exchange rate. I hope you will have much better luck than I did. If you are on a thrifting mission I suggest having a day trip to Shimokitazawa. https://tokyocheapo.com/locations/west-tokyo/shimokitazawa-2/
  20. holymoly

    A rekindled love of canvas bags

    Really it depends on where you are in Japan. Sometimes it is more about convenience, accessibility and the overall style of the bag you are going for. Definitely Ichizawa is probably the most well-known and has probably the longest history of the Japanese bag producers. It does provide customization. If you are in the vicinity, go check it out. I should also update that Sankodo Hinomoto Hanpu has shuttered the Ekimise store and that they have also shut down the http://gyuga.co.jp website. The new URL should now be at http://www.sankodo-sac.jp/. Also Facebook https://www.facebook.com/%E6%97%A5%E4%B9%83%E6%9C%AC%E5%B8%86%E5%B8%83-753940884712066/ 10-year old bag on the left vs a current bag on the right. Same exact style. It does have that Filson aesthetic, if that is what you are into. For what is worth, I had been demonstrated the water resistance ability of Sankodo Hinomoto Hanpu. On the other hand I am not sure if canvas used by Ichizawa Hanpu has been treated for water resistance to that degree. One thing of note, I will say that the majority of bags I see from hanpu producers do not come with laptop sleeve or padded laptop compartments. Generally if you lay the bag GENTLY, the laptop inside should be ok, especially if cushioned against all the other stuff in the bag. If on the other hand, you like tossing your bag, you might want to consider buying a thin polyurethane laptop sleeve. .
  21. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    4 years ago, Business Insider dissected his suits. http://www.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-in-a-suit-2013-9?IR=T&r=US&IR=T First and foremost, Estreicher, Soriano, and Vora all agree that Zuckerberg has been wearing "fused" suits. A high quality suit, Estreicher pointed out, is put together with full canvas, which is horse hair. Fused suits, on the other hand, are glued together and when that happens, the suit can look boxy and unflattering on the body. Also, when fused suits are dry cleaned too many times the glue expands and can corrupt the fit of the garment, making it wrinkly. The guys also see a few issues with the way Zuckerberg's suits fit his body. "Fit of the jacket is also an obvious issue here," said the Vora and Soriano. "His jacket shoulders extend past his actual shoulders and he looks like he's wearing a rental suit from that terrible suit rental place, or borrowing a suit from a football player friend...It almost gives a the look of a kid-in-a-grown-man's-suit look, like that last scene of the movie 'Big.' Shorten those sleeves to your wrist, and show a little shirt cuff." The shoulders aren't the only common problem with Zuckerberg's jackets either. "To make his suit more fitted," Estreicher added. "I would take in the chest, half Girth (stomach)... measurements." Estreicher also said that in a few pictures, the fabric and buttons on Zuckerberg's suits looked cheap. And regardless of what anything costs, you never want something to look cheap.
  22. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    Er...yes quite haphazard and untidy.
  23. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    Not sure if this has been done before. Entire construction looks like a luggage with real hinges.
  24. holymoly

    The suiting thread

    Don't think one single photograph will have that effect. Be that Malaysian Hickey Freeman and be joyfully rich.
  25. holymoly

    Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

    Not sure if you can find these in your favourite tailor shop. FWIW Ariston 240g http://thenordicfit.com/articles/ariston-solaro-fabric-summer-suit https://www.styleforum.net/threads/a-more-discreet-solaro.540122/ Fratelli Tallia di Delfino 250/260g Super 130's Reda might have one but I just cannot be sure about this. Personally I prefer the Fratelli Tallia di Delfino ones rather than the Ariston one.
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