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terrifictrousers

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About terrifictrousers

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  1. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Very interesting, going by this diagram. Every 0.5 μm = +10 to the Super number. So VBC 21 superbio = 21μm = Super 55s? Can't find info on polywool, would assume Superbio's characteristics is closer to it
  2. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Happy new year! Yup got that book recently too, this particular correction gave me so much trouble. 'Oben' was translated into lower. Post reminds me of the Michael Jackson tilt or the MRT posture. Maybe even 10cm not enough!
  3. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Interesting, I've generally just used Hip/12 (w/o ease allowance), and never paid much attention to it. Thought MS's method was a little too technical Just chalked, mine's roughly 5.25" below waistband seam and is almost exact with some margin for error (~+/- 0.5")for the most prominent part. i.e. roughly 3 1/8 inch above crotchline (or 38/12) 10" Rise - 1.5" waistband -> 8.5" Less Hip line height 3 1/8" -> 5 3/8" (5 1/4" chalked)
  4. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Got it from my tailor who got it from other tailor/fabric shops that closed down. Apparently it’s supposed to be pure wool but I got it cheap and don’t want to dry clean. So it’s a muslin now lol, definitely not pure polyester though. Might be a poly wool. Quite thin and porous compared to pure polyester but I’ve felt only really bad pure polyester fabrics All my work trousers are poly wool Will take a photo against natural sunlight tomorrow if it helps
  5. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Just got my hands on Sven Jungclaus's books in english and decided to do up a muslin with adjustments. Seems very much like a simpler Mueller & Sohn draft. Didn't like the knees, too tight unless its jeans or with a bigger hem, maybe will work better if hem width is 17.5"++. Used MS's knee instead. Yeah, I googled to check and rise you gave is what MS is doing too. Not sure how to quantify the back crotch extension (is this the proper term?) Drafted Sven's way, about 2.25" + front 2". Perpendicular distance from hip line is ~5". I think its plenty! Tried Mansie's draft and have a pair of shorts with front crotch extension of 3", comfortable but looks stupid lol. Ignore the bad sewing. Drew position of my balls in red, and front crotch line, lol. This is a 10 inch rise, usually 10.5", tried 9" rise but didn't like it! Top of waistband below bellybutton Seat is 38" with 3.5" ease. Also, is there an advantage to drafting back hip at an angle? (red lines, MS does it on the hip line, Sven on crotchline) Seems to be extremely similar if you measure it horizontally (yellow line). Lastly, I think seat seam angle is very troublesome. When tired, pelvis tilts forward, and you get draglines. Even when fitting the posture constantly changes, especially when you look in the mirror sideways. Where's your common ground. Lol too many questions Btw, i'm no tailor. Just a beginner, unable to afford the high bespoke prices and hate the local kpop trouser scene.
  6. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    Even without going commando, your nuts get slightly squished! Even with a generous front crotch extension I might be overthinking this though haha
  7. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    This has been on my mind for sometime now. Does the rise measurement include the sagging balls? Seems like all drafts don’t, if only allowance for balls shifting to left or right. Have you ever thought of it? Lol
  8. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    I asked my tailor once on how he dealt with really difficult customers. He said he doesn’t turn them away, charge more, no free alterations and prioritise lower. He still likes money.
  9. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    very interested in what syed posted. and hey, your lawyer might be your potential customer. win-win
  10. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    In addition to Jack Welch's advice, Ray Dalio's Principles might be an interesting short read.
  11. terrifictrousers

    The Denim (contrast) Thread

    really beautiful embroidery of the initials. what do you guys use the coin pockets for anyway? i use them just for coins, lol
  12. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    you have a lot palm wrinkles, must have really led an interesting life. would be nice to escape the riots for a bit haha
  13. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    i’m curious on this as well. think firstly you have to consider whether he’s good enough for you to want to put in effort to change him. even if not, you might encounter another similar personality, would be a good learning point in management either way. self esteem, lack of communication (both ways) and even how you treat him might be an issue. your communication skills are pretty polished and might deter him from opening up etc, so many reasons one can guess. instead of being a figure of authority, treat him more like a friend? ie care about why he’s being such as asshole lol, after all you guys will spend a ton of time together. do you explain your reasons in asking him to do x etc. i also find asking a person directly why they act a certain way pretty effective and often overlooked, of course with genuineness.
  14. terrifictrousers

    The Denim (contrast) Thread

    Would/have you drafted jeans, without selvedge, like a normal trouser - no yokes, with back darts and all?
  15. terrifictrousers

    The suiting thread

    remember you mentioned its low footfall though its beautiful not sure about the place which you down paid for. wonder what you'll choose lol, decisions decisions
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