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Arc's Experience with Iris Tailor: Part I (With apologies for how large the photos appear on-screen!) Iris tailor, as many will already know, is located on the first floor of Lucky Plaza in Singapore's Orchard Road shopping belt. For those who need better directions - from the main entrance, head towards the right and rear of the building and you'll eventually see this storefront (picture plagiarised from Gshen's SF post): The inside of Iris is a wonderful mess of Scabal, Dormeuil, H&S, Loro Piana, Ariston and VBC books, amongst others. I handled some remarkable swatches during the short period of waiting my turn - a beautiful LP linen jacketing in cream and baby blue stripes with a remarkably open weave, and a turquoise H&S linen that makes for a great summer pant come to mind. The opposite side of the premises, where even more books (I recall some Inizio jacketings and a Zegna 100% silk book) are stacked under a table laden with bastings and cloth. This is Jeffrey unearthing my baste after a good five minutes spent searching the store for my order. Nani of the funky blue hair, seen here tweaking my trouser fit. Nani strongly favors the slimmer cut, and inquired (to my mild horror, to be honest!) if I'd like my hems any slimmer in light of current fashion trends. We settled on this... For the time being. I saw further inputs as being moot until I can wear and see the second suiting baste in its entirety. Jacket (and vest, obscured) fit, with Jeffrey staring daggers into my back... I recognize that the pictures could be better proportioned - but this was Nani's maiden attempt at using the Sony Ericsson Xperia camera, so big props to her for helping me to take these photos to begin with! The unanimous in-store verdict was a serious underestimation of the bulk and width of my upper back, leading to pulling of the collar/shoulder backwards and downward - to be adjusted for next fitting. Aside from several corrections for accurate sizing, we also: lengthened the right sleeve; undid the seams of the vest to play around with the amount of "show" vis-a-vis the jacket; upped the lapel width as seen on the right chest (mental note to adjust collar shape to account for the wider lapel); and discussed if a smidge more waist suppression might be in order (this was actually Nani's suggestion; I'm ambivalent on this, we'll see how it turns out). I also wondered if the jacket might be too short, but Nani/Jeffrey advised otherwise, with Jeffrey adding that my posterior was fully obscured (as it should be). Having suspected for some time that I've got longer arms than most guys my size, I hath deferred to their judgment for the time being. Bearing in mind advice that the first fitting is for the tailor, I decided to leave queries on sleeve ripples to the next fitting. Will update once the next round takes place in a week or so. In the meantime, critical views and opinions are most welcome!
And so I finally took the plunge into custom tailoring and commissioned my first suit with Ah Loke over the weekend. I told him about 'terrorsquad' and the way his suits were made with him and he just cracked a smile, telling me to drag him along for my first fitting next Saturday (4/2) Haha... A real legend. Being my first time commissioning a suit with Ah Loke, I'm unfamiliar with the way he works and thought of starting this thread to ask what are some of the things that one should look out for. For instance he was telling me to go for half-canvassing because it's faster, shorter jacket and tighter pants because it's more fashionable. Clearly those are a matter of preference but I have to insist to him NOT to do it that way and not cut too close to the body (prefer it to be fitted but not too fitted/slim, looking like a nangka close to bursting at it's sides) So, I asked for the usual options: full canvassing, two buttons, side vents, working cuffs, contrast stitching for the hand-padded lapels (he seems rather shocked that I asked for this). As for my pants, to have it cut straight, cuffed and not too tight to seat. (I'm afraid he may cut it too tight and will have to ask him to re-alter the pants, but that's what the fitting sessions are for, I suppose) Also went to pick up my shirt from him that was sent for alteration and realized that he altered the body eventhough I told him specifically not to (because I only wanted him to shorten the sleeves and slim the armhole) and he made it too damn tight. Even after telling him to open up the sides a bit, and he reluctantly did so, the shirt is still too tight. The shirt used to have a nice drape and now Ah Loke is insisting that it should be that way, with the button on my belly close to bursting open. Will have to bring the shirt back to him again and force to him to open up the sides some more and if possible have him return the shirt's body back to it's original width. Edit: I forgot to add that he made me put on a work-in-progress jacket that he was making for another customer to see how it would look on me. It had a rather high button stance (that how it should be for a 2-button?) and the shoulder pads stick out from my side. Need to keep an eye on that in my first fitting?