Jump to content
"6"

The Denim (contrast) Thread

Recommended Posts

DSC00422.jpg?raw=1

Produced another bespoke jeans. Japanese selvedge denim with hand-sewn buttonhole and solid pure copper button. This will be sent to Melbourne.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DSC02885.jpg?raw=1

Currently, nothing special with my jeans except the fit (bespoke), the premium/rare hardware, and the yoke (which is actually curved which is very uncommon).

I have plans for significant design departure from the archetypal jeans, but could not find the time to actually make the patterns. Something else always needs to be done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The strong curvature of the yoke is not actually visible. That's because it is sandwiched between two straight parts: the waistband at the top, and the back of the jeans at the bottom. When worn, however, it gives a very good fit at the rear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just put in a mega order of 14 different types of denim enough to make 41 pairs of jeans.

Some of them are very interesting. Like this one, which looks like donegal tweed (but isn't). By Nisshinbo.

stacks-image-22140ec-1000x1000.jpg?raw=1

Or how about this 78% cotton, 22% hemp by Nihon Menpu?

stacks-image-d96507c-1200x2000.png?raw=1

 

stacks-image-dad91dc-1000x1300.jpg?raw=1

There is even such a creature. I wonder how it fades. By Kuroki.

stacks-image-594ecfa-1000x1000.jpg?raw=1

And everybody needs a jeans in raw unbleached, undyed cotton. By Kurabo.

stacks-image-16b08d3-900x1200.jpg?raw=1

stacks-image-46ceb3a.jpg?raw=1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DSC00595.jpg?raw=1

Clearly, the watch pocket needs to better positioned. The belt loops, too, are not supposed to be positioned in such a way. The trousermaker needs to be schooled about these things.

DSC00592.jpg?raw=1

He also needs to better understand where to initiate and terminate a stitch. Definitely not at the front, where the nest of threads becomes painfully obvious. The bartack is hand sewn.

DSC00591.jpg?raw=1

After a disastrously bad buttonhole preparation (the steps of machine sewing around the buttonhole and perforating the buttonhole in preparation for the buttonhole stitch) by my employee, she then spent the next 1 hour sewing the first 20% of this buttonhole. I found her too slow and the results barely acceptable. She then complained about the inadequate buttonhole prep and how the buttonhole is doomed to failure.

I told her all these problems are her problem. I have no problem. To prove my point, I picked up where she left off. 10 minutes later, I have completed the buttonhole, including the bartack.

This is to show her what I expect with regards to speed and excellence. It also completely shut her up.

DSC00596.jpg?raw=1

She did a much better job with the bartacks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the first time ever in the history of sava, somebody called about having jeans made. I told him we just started and are not that good at it yet. He seemed interested nonetheless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMG_20190520_164316.jpg?raw=1

Sava on a customer. He put it on just 2 minutes before the picture was taken, so the jeans has not yet expanded from the stress of being worn.

IMG_20190520_162051.jpg?raw=1

The main reason he went for bespoke jeans is to accommodate his large calves. Even so, there is only half an inch of ease in the calves here, though it looks roomier than that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×