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The Denim (contrast) Thread

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Currently, nothing special with my jeans except the fit (bespoke), the premium/rare hardware, and the yoke (which is actually curved which is very uncommon).

I have plans for significant design departure from the archetypal jeans, but could not find the time to actually make the patterns. Something else always needs to be done.

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The strong curvature of the yoke is not actually visible. That's because it is sandwiched between two straight parts: the waistband at the top, and the back of the jeans at the bottom. When worn, however, it gives a very good fit at the rear.

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I have just put in a mega order of 14 different types of denim enough to make 41 pairs of jeans.

Some of them are very interesting. Like this one, which looks like donegal tweed (but isn't). By Nisshinbo.

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Or how about this 78% cotton, 22% hemp by Nihon Menpu?

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There is even such a creature. I wonder how it fades. By Kuroki.

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And everybody needs a jeans in raw unbleached, undyed cotton. By Kurabo.

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Clearly, the watch pocket needs to better positioned. The belt loops, too, are not supposed to be positioned in such a way. The trousermaker needs to be schooled about these things.

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He also needs to better understand where to initiate and terminate a stitch. Definitely not at the front, where the nest of threads becomes painfully obvious. The bartack is hand sewn.

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After a disastrously bad buttonhole preparation (the steps of machine sewing around the buttonhole and perforating the buttonhole in preparation for the buttonhole stitch) by my employee, she then spent the next 1 hour sewing the first 20% of this buttonhole. I found her too slow and the results barely acceptable. She then complained about the inadequate buttonhole prep and how the buttonhole is doomed to failure.

I told her all these problems are her problem. I have no problem. To prove my point, I picked up where she left off. 10 minutes later, I have completed the buttonhole, including the bartack.

This is to show her what I expect with regards to speed and excellence. It also completely shut her up.

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She did a much better job with the bartacks.

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For the first time ever in the history of sava, somebody called about having jeans made. I told him we just started and are not that good at it yet. He seemed interested nonetheless.

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Sava on a customer. He put it on just 2 minutes before the picture was taken, so the jeans has not yet expanded from the stress of being worn.

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The main reason he went for bespoke jeans is to accommodate his large calves. Even so, there is only half an inch of ease in the calves here, though it looks roomier than that.

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Muslin bastes for jeans. I think I sold four or five jeans recently, and these are for two of the customers. Two or three more of these muslins will be prepared. 

After the fitting, this ecru denim will be re-used as pocket bags in the jeans. 

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The muslins are made of denim, in order to approximate the character of the final garment. They even have the yoke at the back. 

I've not heard of anybody preparing muslin bastes for jeans. I think I'm the first. 

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Tomorrow, a real estate agent will show me several units within Colonial Loft. These are the so-called corner units---they are 30% larger than the other units. I will be moving into one of these in order accommodate all the jeans machines which are currently being stored in a room in my house.

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My thoughts on the jeans-muslin fitting, interested to know what you think.

Trousers are usually drafted according to a normal/good posture.

1. Most people now have a forward-tilted hip, leading to an imbalance. Which (is annoying to fit & proper fit might lead to other daily troubles i.e sitting) causes the sag between the hip and knee.

- This causes the knee/calf area to feel tight, simply because it drags along the calves.

2. Also, based on the lines on the back hip & crotch, curve should be deepened. Then again, could be the thick polo/shirt that he's wearing.

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1. Correct

2. No, people can tell between drags on one hand, and insufficient ease on the other hand. 

3. Not deepening the seat/crotch curve. I'm extending the horizontal reach of the back crotch. 

I don't think with jeans I'll be doing much shortening of the back balance. I do it with "city" trousers, but jeans is cowboy wear. Ergonomics first, appearance later. Anyway, any trousers with a ruler straight outseam is never going to be about a clean drape, lol. 

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The blue jeans above is my personal jeans, the making of which we had to set aside as we had to rather quickly make and deliver a customer's jeans. This customer chose a brown 14.5 oz. sanforized denim by Kaihara.

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Hand sewn buttonhole

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Piped fly shield

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Tight quarter inch hem

It was cut and sewn completely inhouse. The three of us each did something, but the bulk of the work was done by Employee #1.

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