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joonian

Garment maintenance

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What brand of RTW shirts are you using? I've come to the conclusion that anything sold in departmental stores, like Jusco and Parkson will shrink more significantly than a 'proper' RTW shirt. I read somewhere (probably in lowyat) that some shirtmakers pre-stretch their fabric before sewing. Nevermind true fabric shirnkage.....a return to its 'normal size' would cause such shirts to shrink. My RTW Lewin's don't do this.

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When i bought G2000 they were (thankfully) usually 50-60% off. And yeah the shrinkage is terrible. I think its time for us to commission some shirts from ALT F1refighter :)

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When i bought G2000 they were (thankfully) usually 50-60% off. And yeah the shrinkage is terrible. I think its time for us to commission some shirts from ALT F1refighter :)

 

They're pretty alright shirts, but only for the first few wears. After 3-4 times of washing and wearing, it would shrink very badly and start to get all fuzzy and weird. Arghh.

 

Yes, in fact, Mystery, shanecross and I are looking to go through the Acorn swatches and see if we can find any nice cloths to buy and then commission them shirts from AL. Yourself?

 

 

 

Or might I suggest TM Lewin?

 

It's all MTM based on one's measurements right? But how to measure oneself properly?

 

But the 5 shirts for 100 pounds deal seems pretty awesome. Less than RM100 a shirt!

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Yeah i'd like to get my hands on some acorn fabric to commission with ALT as well.

 

TM Lewin is best bought online with the 4 for 100 pounds deal. I've got a few and i think they fit me relatively well.

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The last time I looked at the 4-for-GBP100 deal, there were only the wonky patterns available. This was 2 years ago.

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Yeah i'd like to get my hands on some acorn fabric to commission with ALT as well.

 

TM Lewin is best bought online with the 4 for 100 pounds deal. I've got a few and i think they fit me relatively well.

 

I think there will be a group purchase for Acorn. The swatches are either with shanecross or zinzan. You should check with them and join in the fun...!

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I think there will be a group purchase for Acorn. The swatches are either with shanecross or zinzan. You should check with them and join in the fun...!

 

Half is with me,half is with shanecross.

 

The TM Lewin shirts, if bought online, give you the ebst value for money. I have tried Hawe & Curtis, TM Lewin and Charles T and TM Lewin so far to me is the best.They are definitely overpriced here so its better to buy it online.

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Half is with me,half is with shanecross.

 

The TM Lewin shirts, if bought online, give you the ebst value for money. I have tried Hawe & Curtis, TM Lewin and Charles T and TM Lewin so far to me is the best.They are definitely overpriced here so its better to buy it online.

 

Charles T is also worth considering. Their tailored cut is pretty slim, and fits me quite well. The only thing is they have stopped giving VAT rebates for overseas orders. Previously the net price comes up only to 85GBP or so for 5 shirts

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Kotmj, do you think that the steamer can be used fro daily basis or just for travelling?

Wow, I just saw this question.

 

Actually, jackets should not be steamed or exposed to humidity. It differs from coatmaker to coatmaker, some parts of the jacket have been imparted with ironwork (either stretching or shrinking with the iron). The geometry of the seams, the darts, the pad stitching, and the ironwork all conspire to give the tailored jacket its sculptural appearance.

 

When you steam the cloth, it loses its ironwork. That is, if it was shrunk, it will expand. If it was stretched, it will contract back. Not completely, of course, some residual ironwork remains, but the jacket might end up with puffed up seams and generally lose much of its crispness.

 

In the Laksamana No. I pics I posted in the suiting thread, terror had trouble making out if there is a breast pocket. The jacket also looks very crisp and sculptural. A major reason for this is the fact that the jacket received its final press only 5 minutes before the pics were taken. The final press takes about 20 minutes and really gives a jacket that crisp, tailored look. It would look very different if it was steamed. The Armoury wrote somewhere that they have a dehumidifier in the shop because the humidity causes the jackets to lose their shape.

 

So what to do about the wrinkles? Well, it's best to chose a travel-worthy cloth. Much depends on it. The thicker the cloth the more crease resistant it is. High twist cloths are also very crease resistant. And the tailor should be mindful to use a travel worthy canvassing material, the sort that has astounding crease recovery. I've felt many, many types of canvassing material (body canvas + chest canvas) and some perform poorly when crushed while some are literally uncrushable. You crush it in your palm, hold it, then let go. Some canvas will be creased and wrinkled, a few others just spring right back and show no signs of having been crushed. Theoretically, pairing a canvas like that with a cloth like fresco should eliminate the reason to have to steam the jacket. (Though I haven't tried it myself.)

 

If any of you have seen a coatmaker press a jacket you will realise 30 seconds into the demo that your efforts with the steamer at approximating it are woefully inadequate.

 

Trousers are more forgiving, RTW and local bespoke trousers have zero ironwork in them so steam them all you want. But the trousers I make have 20 minutes of ironwork imparted to them so they too should not be steamed.

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Yes the post is very informative indeed. Thanks kotmj! I usually use the steamer every 3-4 wearings as I think it will help get the funk out - I don't dry clean my suits unless they are stained with curry or something. So I guess I'll just steam the trousers from now on. And allow the jacket adequate time between wearings to air out.

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I have managed to press my own suits. I am darn proud of myself. Managed to get lapels to roll again rather than flattened.

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what ironing board do you guys use?

 

brabantia is having a promo on one of their boards so i went to check it out. i was hoping to find a heavy and stable board, but unfortnately it is just slightly better than my current medical hall one which i paid rm30 for.

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Came home to find out that my family acquired a Phillips steamer,

 

http://www.productre...nt-steamer.html

 

After giving it a go at 1 very creased shirt 2 chinos a pair of shorts and a T shirt, I came to understand that as for now im using it like an iron anyway's using my left hand as a make shift board and the steamer on my right hand slowly steaming away at the garments, it does not do well if hard creases but its fairly quick for simple things such as the shorts and T shirt. I guess if i were to use it longer I would acquire the skill to operate it faster.

 

From a first time perspective I don't see it replacing my standard steam iron

 

Thoughts?

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