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Utility jackets (military, safari, travel)


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#1 kotmj

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 08:02 PM

I thrifted what appears to be a South Korean military jacket a few days ago in Temerloh. They were available in two flavours -- plain olive green like the one I bought and in camo like what Rain is wearing. I found the camo design less suited for civilian use so bought the plain one.

 

IMG_3932_zps3473d209.jpg

 

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This jacket of mine is like a sophisticated safari jacket. It has many features not present on safari jackets, but which I think should. I may take pics of the details.



#2 arc

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 08:59 PM

An expensive example of what I've been looking at (this one is being offered for USD300 thereabouts). It's possible that searching the bay will yield better finds.

 

post-467-0-06665200-1394461630.jpg

 

WW2 Vietnam-period garb, fits a 37-41" chest. I think it'd be great as a throw on casual piece.

 

The problem is, I am haunted by pictures of Clinton from KS in military garb a la hashtag-menswear.



#3 kotmj

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 09:51 PM

I was flipping through a Japanese photo magazine when this picture popped out at me. It was shot in Paris, I believe, and shows an authentic non-Pitti, non-#menswear use of a utility jacket. It doesn't flatter like a tailored jacket, but is relevant for occasional wear.

IMG_3829_zpsd64620db.jpg



#4 beatific

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 07:27 PM

I like this one on Clooney in the movie 'the American'

lV4NBpj.jpg

#5 holymoly

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 10:00 AM

Olive green is an amazing colour but I prefer a much fitted military-inspired blazer over a more shapeless jacket.

Especially one with four flap pockets (perhaps with brass buttons?), 3-roll-2, four button cuffs and double back vents. Maintaining the same level of functionality and utility.

 

zf2LF6w.jpg

ju14cQe.jpg

 

 

Over at Styleforum, this is a Work-In-Progress by EFV. Extraordinarily, it is a first-time effort from someone without tailoring background. 

 

yqzrFh4.jpg

VLMoFX9.jpg



#6 kotmj

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:44 PM

Things like safari and Norfolk jackets look right with closed quarters.

#7 joonian

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:10 PM

^ Agree with kotmj. That SF example looks like a burdened sportcoat. However, incredible for a first attempt. 



#8 terrorsquad

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 10:52 PM

Olive green is an amazing colour but I prefer a much fitted military-inspired blazer over a more shapeless jacket.

Especially one with four flap pockets (perhaps with brass buttons?), 3-roll-2, four button cuffs and double back vents. Maintaining the same level of functionality and utility.

 

 

 

 

yqzrFh4.jpg

 

 

This is impressive



#9 kotmj

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 10:25 AM

EFV's jacket is styled so much better than this
fdc64d95_cotton-safari-jacket1copy.jpeg

Rectangular pockets are no-no.

#10 kotmj

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 11:14 AM

With these sort of jackets, there exists a spectrum from shirt-like to jacket-like. The shirt-like ones are economical and made by shirtmakers. Those closer to the jacket end of the spectrum are made by coatmakers. EFV's is essentially a jacket. The Ascot Chang ones that the Armoury carries are on the shirt side of the spectrum.

They are very different. The biggest difference is probably in the sleeves. Shirt sleeves, or jacket sleeves. Then, side body, or not. Two piece back, or one piece (like a shirt). Yoke, or jacket fronts.

The closer the cut approaches that of a jacket, the greater the potential for drool-worthiness. The shirt cut is essentially underwear cut and doesn't awaken much wonder. Too simple, too sackish.

For this reason, elimination of seams on a jacket causes a degradation of its shapeliness.

#11 holymoly

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 08:50 PM

Updates on EFV's jacket. Cuffs look like they are still a Work-In-Progress.

 

 

2BL80f3.jpg

 

Ox7zJHx.jpg



#12 navic

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 01:41 PM

wow, i'm stealing that... a soft linen jacket like that would be perfect for an afternoon on European beaches



#13 kotmj

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 11:25 PM

I'm making someone a shirt jacket. He has both jacket and shirt patterns with me. This shirt jacket will be a hybrid of both. I might even draft it tomorrow, we shall see.

#14 navic

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 05:21 AM

any pictures JT?



#15 residentdandy

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 11:55 PM

I have literally just been shown the pattern draft of a shirt/jacket hybrid by a Singapore tailor (who most definitely does not know of this forum and most definitely did not rip JT's idea off). Let me see if I can be allowed to post it when it is in final form.


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#16 kotmj

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:17 AM

^At least somebody knows what I'm talking about. Sometimes I wonder how well I'm understood.

#17 EF Lau

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 12:33 PM

Why bother? 



#18 kotmj

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 09:07 PM

So here it is. The front, yoke and collar are 100% shirt. The back is a two-piece like a jacket. Sleeves are jacket. Totally unlined.
zisheng4_zps3ae7a1e5.jpg

I'm tempted to put it on -- I'm approx. the customer's size -- but it would crinkle the jacket. The architecture and details are based on a epaulet model the customer forwarded me.

#19 navic

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 05:42 AM

That falls nicely, is that the ironwork or is there a structure inside the jacket?



#20 kotmj

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 02:39 AM

No structure whatsoever.
zisheng5_zps2a22efcd.jpg

(Gratuitous photo illustrating nothing in particular except perhaps that topstitching along seams can be quite attractive.)
zisheng6_zpsac88072f.jpg




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