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kotmj

Utility jackets (military, safari, travel)

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I thrifted what appears to be a South Korean military jacket a few days ago in Temerloh. They were available in two flavours -- plain olive green like the one I bought and in camo like what Rain is wearing. I found the camo design less suited for civilian use so bought the plain one.

 

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This jacket of mine is like a sophisticated safari jacket. It has many features not present on safari jackets, but which I think should. I may take pics of the details.

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An expensive example of what I've been looking at (this one is being offered for USD300 thereabouts). It's possible that searching the bay will yield better finds.

 

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WW2 Vietnam-period garb, fits a 37-41" chest. I think it'd be great as a throw on casual piece.

 

The problem is, I am haunted by pictures of Clinton from KS in military garb a la hashtag-menswear.

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I was flipping through a Japanese photo magazine when this picture popped out at me. It was shot in Paris, I believe, and shows an authentic non-Pitti, non-#menswear use of a utility jacket. It doesn't flatter like a tailored jacket, but is relevant for occasional wear.

IMG_3829_zpsd64620db.jpg

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Olive green is an amazing colour but I prefer a much fitted military-inspired blazer over a more shapeless jacket.

Especially one with four flap pockets (perhaps with brass buttons?), 3-roll-2, four button cuffs and double back vents. Maintaining the same level of functionality and utility.

 

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Over at Styleforum, this is a Work-In-Progress by EFV. Extraordinarily, it is a first-time effort from someone without tailoring background. 

 

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^ Agree with kotmj. That SF example looks like a burdened sportcoat. However, incredible for a first attempt. 

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Olive green is an amazing colour but I prefer a much fitted military-inspired blazer over a more shapeless jacket.

Especially one with four flap pockets (perhaps with brass buttons?), 3-roll-2, four button cuffs and double back vents. Maintaining the same level of functionality and utility.

 

 

 

 

yqzrFh4.jpg

 

 

This is impressive

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With these sort of jackets, there exists a spectrum from shirt-like to jacket-like. The shirt-like ones are economical and made by shirtmakers. Those closer to the jacket end of the spectrum are made by coatmakers. EFV's is essentially a jacket. The Ascot Chang ones that the Armoury carries are on the shirt side of the spectrum.

 

They are very different. The biggest difference is probably in the sleeves. Shirt sleeves, or jacket sleeves. Then, side body, or not. Two piece back, or one piece (like a shirt). Yoke, or jacket fronts.

 

The closer the cut approaches that of a jacket, the greater the potential for drool-worthiness. The shirt cut is essentially underwear cut and doesn't awaken much wonder. Too simple, too sackish.

 

For this reason, elimination of seams on a jacket causes a degradation of its shapeliness.

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I'm making someone a shirt jacket. He has both jacket and shirt patterns with me. This shirt jacket will be a hybrid of both. I might even draft it tomorrow, we shall see.

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I have literally just been shown the pattern draft of a shirt/jacket hybrid by a Singapore tailor (who most definitely does not know of this forum and most definitely did not rip JT's idea off). Let me see if I can be allowed to post it when it is in final form.

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"In matters of grave importance, style, not sincerity, is the vital thing." - Oscar Wilde

http:/www.instagram.com/residentdandy

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So here it is. The front, yoke and collar are 100% shirt. The back is a two-piece like a jacket. Sleeves are jacket. Totally unlined.

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I'm tempted to put it on -- I'm approx. the customer's size -- but it would crinkle the jacket. The architecture and details are based on a epaulet model the customer forwarded me.

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No structure whatsoever.

zisheng5_zps2a22efcd.jpg

 

(Gratuitous photo illustrating nothing in particular except perhaps that topstitching along seams can be quite attractive.)

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I was about to pack and send this to the customer when I thought, I should try it on. And sure enough, when I did, I discovered a glaring mistake. The coatmaker retardedly assumed the front edge contained 5/8" of seam allowance. Actually it does, but he had previously folded it away to make for equivalence with a jacket pattern, whose front edge is nett, I.e. contains no seam allowance. So the jacket was missing 1.25" off the front. It went back to him for alterations.

 

This time, I made very sure to try it on. This picture was taken at the workshop.

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Wow, just in time that I found this post....should be nailing a shirt jacket soon ~ 

 

245g Navy Linen, the pattern will be bigger than my normal shirt so I can wear it on top of my work shirt / polo or just with a tee on the weekend. 

 

Since it is first trail I keep stuff simple without the half belt and centre pleat

My tailor said it will be one piece like shirt with side dart to give the nip on the waist area 

Four pocket on the front side with shirt cuff. 

 

CMT price quote me 3x of a normal shirt, still cheaper than my AC normal CMT.... 

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