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Utility jackets (military, safari, travel)

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do you think safari suits are a good match for only certain body types? and by that i mean a generally very slender one.. 

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do you think safari suits are a good match for only certain body types? and by that i mean a generally very slender one.. 

 

. I am a chubby boy with a wide girth (the pic of me above has a nice angle that hides my size) and I think the bush jacket looks okay if it were cut properly. For another example... see Mr Hemingway below

 

Ernest_and_Mary_Hemingway_on_safari%2C_1

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i think it's the skirt of the jacket that only looks good for slender dudes... if the skirt is full and it's belted, like the one with razak above. 

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There is a pictorial on Tun Abdul Razak on my blog. But this, really caught my eye. The Tan Sri in front of Tun Razak was wearing a nice short sleeved safari jacket/suit 1975..AIA building terrorist fracas.

m_12razak.jpg

The frontmost outfit in the pic is really nice, but perhaps a little too decked out with details for 2015. I would like for myself a simplified bush jacket that is more refined than rugged. I don't see why it shouldn't be in a nice wool.
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I did a version a while back that was closer to the jacket end (rather than shirt end) of Jeremy's spectrum. It had four pockets, a sewn-on full belt with the waist suppression taken care of by normal tailoring, pleats at the shoulder back, jacket cuffs, and lapels rather than a collar with three buttons. It was almost entirely unstructured, and could be washed.

 

Great piece to wear especially on rugged travels where it's neither really hot nor cold, like a windy desert environment, or spring in Italy.

 

What do you guys think of a heavyweight pique cotton version of this travel jacket? I have something like that in the works now with a shirt collar and shirt cuffs. The first prototype came out nicely and wears like a heavy-ish cardigan (I did it in tan pique cotton). The second prototype should be even better...

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pique is v interesting.. would have to handle to know for sure... but i imagine a twill for a more polished look and some sort of brushed/washed cotton for a more rugged look... 

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This is another of my safari jackets... jacket lapels and cuffs. And old piece from British India altered to fit. Details on the blog of course.

IMG_20151017_160332.jpg

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pique is v interesting.. would have to handle to know for sure... but i imagine a twill for a more polished look and some sort of brushed/washed cotton for a more rugged look... 

 

yeah but the problem is twill would look like hell after the jacket has been heavily used on a trip.. whereas linen would look artfully rumpled. 

 
there's a pic of me in the linen norfolk jacket on my fb page... https://www.facebook.com/bchh1

 

i tested the pique safari travel jacket today and it's pretty cool.. doesn't feel warm and the fabric is stretchy and doesn't rumple. i think it'd be great to wear on a long flight

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I think wool-cotton hopsack or any sort of hopsack would resist wrinkling. Pique tends to be clingy. Like a long sleeved polo shirt in that material clings to your arms. 

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BritishIndia must have been truer to its name in earlier years. Nowadays it sells mostly casual datukwear.

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I think wool-cotton hopsack or any sort of hopsack would resist wrinkling. Pique tends to be clingy. Like a long sleeved polo shirt in that material clings to your arms. 

 

Hopsack yeah, but it wears pretty hot, especially a wool-cotton one. Also can't be washed.

 

Hmm when I tested the pique it didnt seem clingy, might be the difference in various sources of pique cotton. Wears cooler than my linen and poplin shirts

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BritishIndia must have been truer to its name in earlier years. Nowadays it sells mostly casual datukwear.

 

Lol i like that term - casual datukwear. maybe you should do a diffusion line with that theme ;)

 

Wonder how it'll look... hermes belt and skinny jeans?

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You're not Malaysian so I'll excuse your ignorance about elder male Malay capitalists. The look is short sleeve linen shirt worn untucked. To cater well to this market, the garments need to accommodate an expansive belly within which the cumulatively the chicken population of an entire KLSE-listed poultry farm has finally been digested.

 

factory-farming-chickensstacked.jpg

 

(^Why do people insist on eating these things at every meal? Where does the addiction come from?)

 

And, yes, this segment is strategically important to the luxury division of kotmj Heavy Industries because I want to be bought by LV before you get bought by LV.

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BritishIndia must have been truer to its name in earlier years. Nowadays it sells mostly casual datukwear.

 

The 'earlier years' you mentioned was merely pre-2008-09 actually. Those days you could grab lots of safari jackets, unlined sports jackets and safari shirts. These days it is linen shirts with the occasional safari shirts in between. No more jackets of the British Colonial era sort. I have to go elsewhere for my fix of adventure clothing that does not have 'camel trophy' or some brand plastered all over it. Ralph Lauren here does that but at their prices (even outlet) I'd rather tailor make my new stuff. One of these days I will come see you @kotmj to get something made.

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IMG_3854-01.jpg?dl=0

 

Dr Chong's old bush jacket. Many interesting features in this jacket. I consider this an archetype of the Malayan bush jacket. Made in Ipoh, unexpectedly. The cloth is a porous lightweight polyester, but there is a lot of wisdom in picking such a material for such an application. The collar is unfused.

 

Even though it has a lot more in common with a shirt than a tailored jacket, I believe this bush jacket was sewn by a coatmaker. A shirtmaker would not execute the details in this manner.

 

Even the back is interesting.

IMG_3855.jpg?dl=0

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Dr Chong: "This used to belong to a relative of the shah of Iran. Zegna / wool silk. This gentlemen is the way to carry a bush jacket. Even comes with a concealed pocket to secret a walter ppk. I am in the field now and I have no internet connection.
 

Observe and learn from the best
 

Gentlemen I bought it in Cairo for usd 2,000. Observe the cutting gentlemen, it's poetry in motion. Tailoring like this don't exist any longer."

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I think since the beginning of this forum, this is the first time someone posted a fit video.

 

It does look very good. Is there a maker's label?

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'Is there a makers label.' No. But that shouldn't be unusual at all - as the bush jacket was mostly likely constructed for a senior SAVAK field agent, it's got at least three to four secret access pockets - one that even allows for me to reach well into the waist band from the side pocket, a hidden pocket under the armpit, one pocket slit for presumably a discreet stiletto in the inner tight. The maker is definitely french, only these have the finesse to pile in so much without mucking up the lines. Besides it was well known the Shah was particularly fastidious about SAVAK being the most well dressed secret service in the Arabian Gulf.

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Observe Jeremy and learn - and I don't say this as if I talking down to you...remember I want you to be the best....that's why I gave you the commission for my bush jackets. The box doesn't go from side to side like an accordion...observe - you really have to have to give credit to the Shah of Iran. This guy was so incredibly loaded that he would specify to Zegna what and how to run on their looms - these days you don't people with that sort of sartorial appreciation any longer. When it comes to sartorial splendidness, Tehran was maybe 20 years ahead of Paris, London and Milan - I am not kidding. When I know you better I will invite you to my house. I have a walk in wardrobe, the size of one linked house, one section is a collection of clothes and suits from that era....I am not kidding you Jeremy, the things you will see will change your whole life forever.

 

From time to time I wear some of those stuff and post it here.

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