Utility jackets (military, safari, travel)
Posted 19 October 2015 - 03:46 PM
(^Why do people insist on eating these things at every meal? Where does the addiction come from?)
And, yes, this segment is strategically important to the luxury division of kotmj Heavy Industries because I want to be bought by LV before you get bought by LV.
Posted 20 October 2015 - 10:43 AM
BritishIndia must have been truer to its name in earlier years. Nowadays it sells mostly casual datukwear.
The 'earlier years' you mentioned was merely pre-2008-09 actually. Those days you could grab lots of safari jackets, unlined sports jackets and safari shirts. These days it is linen shirts with the occasional safari shirts in between. No more jackets of the British Colonial era sort. I have to go elsewhere for my fix of adventure clothing that does not have 'camel trophy' or some brand plastered all over it. Ralph Lauren here does that but at their prices (even outlet) I'd rather tailor make my new stuff. One of these days I will come see you @kotmj to get something made.
Posted 14 June 2016 - 12:30 PM
Dr Chong's old bush jacket. Many interesting features in this jacket. I consider this an archetype of the Malayan bush jacket. Made in Ipoh, unexpectedly. The cloth is a porous lightweight polyester, but there is a lot of wisdom in picking such a material for such an application. The collar is unfused.
Even though it has a lot more in common with a shirt than a tailored jacket, I believe this bush jacket was sewn by a coatmaker. A shirtmaker would not execute the details in this manner.
Even the back is interesting.
Posted 14 June 2016 - 11:09 PM
Dr Chong: "This used to belong to a relative of the shah of Iran. Zegna / wool silk. This gentlemen is the way to carry a bush jacket. Even comes with a concealed pocket to secret a walter ppk. I am in the field now and I have no internet connection.
Observe and learn from the best
Gentlemen I bought it in Cairo for usd 2,000. Observe the cutting gentlemen, it's poetry in motion. Tailoring like this don't exist any longer."
Posted 17 June 2016 - 03:19 PM
Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:49 PM
From time to time I wear some of those stuff and post it here.
Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:08 PM
After much reflection, I have come to the conclusion that I won't be striving to be the best. The path is stony and arid. As Goethe said, art is long but life is short. Let someone else strive for the pole position. I will instead accept the compromise of being the most profitable.
A lot of what makes a garment really good is having the optimal ease at each point. I define the ease as the excess cloth beyond what is absolutely necessary. If you have a chest measure of 38", a good ease for the shirt to have is 4", i.e. the shirt measures 42" in the chest, with most of that ease being in the back, and less in the front. There is a different optimal ease in the waist and in the seat, and the armholes, and the upper bicep all the way to the cuff. Nowadays I pay a lot of attention to ease. I want to map the optimal ease in every portion of every garment we make.
There are of course lots of other things that are important in tailoring; ease management happens to be one of those I am paying attention to now.
Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:29 PM
You take me for a dumbo who just gives you a 3K commission for two bush jackets. There is a bigger pic here that you don't seem to appreciate Jeremy, just make sure what I commissioned is the best that you can humanly craft - that is all I ask for.
Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:46 PM
Jeremy I didn't get where I am by disabling people...I give them wings!
Posted 18 June 2016 - 12:08 AM
I think it was 3.4k. I don't want people coming to me saying, "But you charged Dr Chong 3K! How come I have to pay more?"
I don't really have any economic ambitions. For at least two years now, it's just been about each moment: a conversation is just about the conversation, the garment is just the garment. One word at a time, one seam at a time, one button at a time. There is no plan for world domination. In fact, there is no plan at all. When a plan is required, we make one. Then, the next thing. And next. For me, life is just a series of moments.
It has to be like this because if you look dispassionately at things, you see that we're all just headed to one destination. Death. So why be so excited.
Posted 18 June 2016 - 12:28 AM
Posted 22 June 2016 - 04:21 PM
This is another one of fav formal bush jackets - it's by Henderson, Goring & Wright ( don't know whether they are still in business, but Alpha Conde, Idi Amin and Mugabe loved them to bits) - straight cut with no box or military style band and flare vent at the back from Cape Town South Africa. They had a branch in Kampala - this was where this was tailored. Curious mix of linen and silk (never seen that combo ever before...never ever) - I like it very much, as it's cool and material is just right for November in West Africa during the Harmattan period, so it doesn't itch and the really great thing about this bush jacket is by mid day. It even has the courtesy to crumple and crinkle in all the right places to give it a wabi sabi field dress feel. Usually I wear with formal cravat sometimes with an Ascot with a diamond pin - shoes are bespoke Murakami - dark brown with reverso patin.
Posted 22 June 2016 - 05:46 PM
Do take note.
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