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Utility jackets (military, safari, travel)


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#41 kotmj

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 03:46 PM

You're not Malaysian so I'll excuse your ignorance about elder male Malay capitalists. The look is short sleeve linen shirt worn untucked. To cater well to this market, the garments need to accommodate an expansive belly within which the cumulatively the chicken population of an entire KLSE-listed poultry farm has finally been digested.

factory-farming-chickensstacked.jpg

(^Why do people insist on eating these things at every meal? Where does the addiction come from?)

And, yes, this segment is strategically important to the luxury division of kotmj Heavy Industries because I want to be bought by LV before you get bought by LV.

#42 riggy

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Posted 20 October 2015 - 10:43 AM

BritishIndia must have been truer to its name in earlier years. Nowadays it sells mostly casual datukwear.

 

The 'earlier years' you mentioned was merely pre-2008-09 actually. Those days you could grab lots of safari jackets, unlined sports jackets and safari shirts. These days it is linen shirts with the occasional safari shirts in between. No more jackets of the British Colonial era sort. I have to go elsewhere for my fix of adventure clothing that does not have 'camel trophy' or some brand plastered all over it. Ralph Lauren here does that but at their prices (even outlet) I'd rather tailor make my new stuff. One of these days I will come see you @kotmj to get something made.


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#43 kotmj

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Posted 14 June 2016 - 12:30 PM

IMG_3854-01.jpg?dl=0

Dr Chong's old bush jacket. Many interesting features in this jacket. I consider this an archetype of the Malayan bush jacket. Made in Ipoh, unexpectedly. The cloth is a porous lightweight polyester, but there is a lot of wisdom in picking such a material for such an application. The collar is unfused.

Even though it has a lot more in common with a shirt than a tailored jacket, I believe this bush jacket was sewn by a coatmaker. A shirtmaker would not execute the details in this manner.

Even the back is interesting.
IMG_3855.jpg?dl=0

#44 takashi

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Posted 14 June 2016 - 02:55 PM

Lets see some close ups



#45 yan

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Posted 14 June 2016 - 11:09 PM

 

Dr Chong: "This used to belong to a relative of the shah of Iran. Zegna / wool silk. This gentlemen is the way to carry a bush jacket. Even comes with a concealed pocket to secret a walter ppk. I am in the field now and I have no internet connection.
 

Observe and learn from the best
 

Gentlemen I bought it in Cairo for usd 2,000. Observe the cutting gentlemen, it's poetry in motion. Tailoring like this don't exist any longer."



#46 kotmj

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 02:53 AM

I think since the beginning of this forum, this is the first time someone posted a fit video.

It does look very good. Is there a maker's label?

#47 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 02:30 PM

https://www.google.c...iact=mrc&uact=8

Attached Files



#48 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 03:19 PM

'Is there a makers label.' No. But that shouldn't be unusual at all - as the bush jacket was mostly likely constructed for a senior SAVAK field agent, it's got at least three to four secret access pockets - one that even allows for me to reach well into the waist band from the side pocket, a hidden pocket under the armpit, one pocket slit for presumably a discreet stiletto in the inner tight. The maker is definitely french, only these have the finesse to pile in so much without mucking up the lines. Besides it was well known the Shah was particularly fastidious about SAVAK being the most well dressed secret service in the Arabian Gulf.

#49 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:36 PM

https://m.youtube.co...?v=UXifmEnRz7E#

#50 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:49 PM

Observe Jeremy and learn - and I don't say this as if I talking down to you...remember I want you to be the best....that's why I gave you the commission for my bush jackets. The box doesn't go from side to side like an accordion...observe - you really have to have to give credit to the Shah of Iran. This guy was so incredibly loaded that he would specify to Zegna what and how to run on their looms - these days you don't people with that sort of sartorial appreciation any longer. When it comes to sartorial splendidness, Tehran was maybe 20 years ahead of Paris, London and Milan - I am not kidding. When I know you better I will invite you to my house. I have a walk in wardrobe, the size of one linked house, one section is a collection of clothes and suits from that era....I am not kidding you Jeremy, the things you will see will change your whole life forever.

From time to time I wear some of those stuff and post it here.

#51 kotmj

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:08 PM

Can't believe I spent one minute of my life staring at Dr Chong's back. I kept waiting for something to happen but he just blew smoke. Yes, splendid bush jacket.

After much reflection, I have come to the conclusion that I won't be striving to be the best. The path is stony and arid. As Goethe said, art is long but life is short. Let someone else strive for the pole position. I will instead accept the compromise of being the most profitable.

A lot of what makes a garment really good is having the optimal ease at each point. I define the ease as the excess cloth beyond what is absolutely necessary. If you have a chest measure of 38", a good ease for the shirt to have is 4", i.e. the shirt measures 42" in the chest, with most of that ease being in the back, and less in the front. There is a different optimal ease in the waist and in the seat, and the armholes, and the upper bicep all the way to the cuff. Nowadays I pay a lot of attention to ease. I want to map the optimal ease in every portion of every garment we make.

There are of course lots of other things that are important in tailoring; ease management happens to be one of those I am paying attention to now.

#52 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:29 PM

There are two thousand three hundred and fifty one men who is in the brotherhood....you think I came here alone...do you actually believe this is an accidental encounter like two ships passing on a moonless night - we are r literally everywhere like the Medici's of lore, Africa, South America even many are here. We are in everything from clandestine banking, commercial farming, mining right to everything under the sun AND we all wear bush jackets - guess who is the leader of this underground movement?

You take me for a dumbo who just gives you a 3K commission for two bush jackets. There is a bigger pic here that you don't seem to appreciate Jeremy, just make sure what I commissioned is the best that you can humanly craft - that is all I ask for.

#53 Dr Chong

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:46 PM

Just do your humanly best - and if you fuck it up. We do it again till we get it right. Like I said, I am a leader of men.....I don't need your past history, that's grist to the mill to me....I am really only interested in how much commitment you're willing to be put into this craft that I hope you will excel in and you have my full support. we r not like some twelve yr olds here who keep harping up what you did - we are invest in the future, if you get it wrong...no,swear...it's a learning curve...have faith.

Jeremy I didn't get where I am by disabling people...I give them wings!

#54 kotmj

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 12:08 AM

Is Mahathir leader of the bush jacket association?
IMG_20160617_235705_zpsugde8qpg.jpg

I think it was 3.4k. I don't want people coming to me saying, "But you charged Dr Chong 3K! How come I have to pay more?"

I don't really have any economic ambitions. For at least two years now, it's just been about each moment: a conversation is just about the conversation, the garment is just the garment. One word at a time, one seam at a time, one button at a time. There is no plan for world domination. In fact, there is no plan at all. When a plan is required, we make one. Then, the next thing. And next. For me, life is just a series of moments.

It has to be like this because if you look dispassionately at things, you see that we're all just headed to one destination. Death. So why be so excited.

#55 Dr Chong

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 12:28 AM

Jeremy I am not like some twelve year olds here. I assure you, I have a deep respect for your life decision to venture into tailoring based on my familiarity with your history, ONLY because I believe passionately the craftsman needs to be venerated, respected and most Importantly remunerated deservedly - fact: bush jacking is dying! Most tailors know nuts - they know suits, trousers, vest.....that's their repertoire, What we see today is mish mash like two differently cars welded together when it comes to bush jacking - the craft needs to be really revivified by people who believe it deserves it's rightful place. That's my goal - to bring it back into the main stream, so to me the price is not important at all - the key here is the goal. - to arrest the rot...remember this is how leaders think, they always have strategic agenda - where they have the bigger picture in mind - it's really not a question of HOW well you execute - the important thing to me is you have the verve, √Član and panache to give it a go - and that to you may not mean crud, but what you have inadvertently done is to stop the rot...and that means everything to me.....Jeremy that is how leaders think.....they're not fixated on what you can do or what you did - the most important is, you are willing to do it and that just means...it will never die.

#56 Dr Chong

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 04:21 PM

https://dotseng.file...6/06/image7.jpg

This is another one of fav formal bush jackets - it's by Henderson, Goring & Wright ( don't know whether they are still in business, but Alpha Conde, Idi Amin and Mugabe loved them to bits) - straight cut with no box or military style band and flare vent at the back from Cape Town South Africa. They had a branch in Kampala - this was where this was tailored. Curious mix of linen and silk (never seen that combo ever before...never ever) - I like it very much, as it's cool and material is just right for November in West Africa during the Harmattan period, so it doesn't itch and the really great thing about this bush jacket is by mid day. It even has the courtesy to crumple and crinkle in all the right places to give it a wabi sabi field dress feel. Usually I wear with formal cravat sometimes with an Ascot with a diamond pin - shoes are bespoke Murakami - dark brown with reverso patin.

#57 urban

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 04:47 PM

Doc is looking dapper. Fine looking dandy.



#58 Dr Chong

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 05:46 PM

Please observe two details. Firstly, bottom most button is always left undone - Afrikaner or North African style, due to the need to accomodate firearms at waist, culture goes back to the days of the Atlantic slave wars when buccaneers wore double breasted suits, hence in most db's suits even today, exposed button is always undone only anchor is operational - this is a throw back to the days when firearms were unusually large and if not snug, it could blow off your dick. Second detailing, there is seldom a second fold on the trousers. Never ever. A proper North African bush jacket should infact be a whole inch higher than usual, at times even exposing socks. Fold ups are a no- no due to sand in the desert - as real bushjacket trousers have the option to be worn with boots or even leather gaiters.

Do take note.

#59 "6"

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 04:15 AM

Doc is looking dapper. Fine looking dandy.


Aye he's fine looking chap indeed. Blue steel

#60 kotmj

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 02:29 PM

tmp_10597-IMG_20160628_142314-1466138771

Pattern for the bush jacket of the decade. From left, top to bottom: Front panel with folded sleeve on top; one-piece collar and side panel; yoke and back panel.




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