Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:00 PM
I was actually contemplating to pos ta new thread on trousers but since there are none, I thought I should give it a go. I was wondering if anyone has ever made trousers through AL. It seems that AL is charging 160 for a polyester based trousers and 220 for cotton trousers. Would it be advisable to get my own materials or the in-house fabric is more than adequate? It s a little difficult for me to get decent trousers without going to the tailor to either taper the trousers. Generally, I have to get a bigger sized trousers to accommodate the thigh area but at the cost of a bigger waist. This means that I have to tighten the belt way too much which IMO is not an ideal way of wearing a trousers, especially when they are tucked in as they look all creased up on the waist area.
On a separate note, where do most of you get your trousers? Uniqlo? Dockers have decent trousers but from my experience they tend to be loose especially the D2, D3 series. The D1 is nicely tapered but they naturally flare up a little on the lower end, hence makin the pants look like a bootleg.
Would appreciate if anyone could throw in some advise
Posted 27 December 2011 - 09:07 PM
i bought a few lengths of fabric from binwani's recently.
i tailor my work pants. no ready made trousers come close to the fit of tailored trousers, in your case especially, with the folds at the waist area.
bought a pair of chinos from uniqlo, slightly tight but overall pretty good.
Posted 27 December 2011 - 09:12 PM
The calf-to-hem area can be easily tapered, a great deal of tapering can take place here but it will be a more expensive alteration since both seams need to be redone.
I have had linen trousers made but not yet chinos. Finding a source of quality cotton drill is tough. The good ones are truly expensive and the cheaper ones feel terrible. There seems to be no middle quality, the sort that corresponds to GAP or Dockers. It's either luxury drill or farmer's drill.
Posted 27 December 2011 - 10:40 PM
I've had perfectly servicable cotton for trousers from Iris' house books. I don't remember what the name on the book said. I think it was something vaguely Italian. I've had four or five pairs made for the low side of SGD100-200 each. Nothing beats bespoke trou!
Posted 28 December 2011 - 02:18 AM
What sort of materials did you get from Binwanis? Are they good materials in terms of cooling etc? I am not quite sure how much AL charge for labor when making a pant. What is the length that is commonly required to make trousers?
So you saying that GAP and Dockers are actually on the crappy line of trousers? I have not had any experience with gap. I do have a Banana Republic grey chinos. Fits well but tends to pull a little on the hamstring area. On a separate note, I have not had experience with Uniqlo. Might give them a try. I think its 169 each right? Im keen on getting beige, navy, and some shades of grey. Wouldn't mind some nice brown ones too !
Posted 28 December 2011 - 03:54 PM
I think GAP uses good cotton, just not the sort for the bespoke trade. Uniqlo has large quality variation depending on design and collection. Some are for farmers while others are very nice.
Next level chinos would be in pink and yellow and powder blue.
Posted 29 December 2011 - 02:09 AM
Thanks for the heads up kotmj,
Went to GAP today in KLCC since i occasionally go to FF in Avenue K, couldn't kop anything since the ones they have on sale are all 33inch waist on above...
Posted 13 January 2012 - 10:42 PM
Posted 14 January 2012 - 07:22 PM
One observation, the waist band feels quite "crispy", like it has cardboard inside. Haven't felt anything like this before, might it be a "local" tailoring trait? I'll have to ask him when I see him again.
1) Button holes - standard issue at Button Liew
2) Button stalk
3) Stock standard side adjusters
4) Some textured fabric along the sides of the inner waistband. Apparently that fabric is to stop your shirt from coming out so easily. Button said it was a detail found on older trousers. He thought I might get a kick out of it.
About our conversation today:
Button is a second generation tailor who learned the trade from his father, who owns Lean Seng Tailor up in Perlis. He seems pretty knowledgable about jackets and such, and lamented on the fact that the majority of his clients are only interested in a fast turnaround in a brand name fabric (Zegna sells extremely well). He also has some awesome Loro Piana linen (380 grams/metre) swatches, which he says "barely gets a look" by customers. He quoted me RM4,000 for a jacket in that linen - fully handmade with floating canvass, half lining, with soft shoulders. He said that it would take at least a month to complete, with multiple fittings. He also said a half-lined jacket in Malaysia is perceived to be of "lower quality" than a fully lined one, which is why he doesn't get any requests for half-lined jackets.
When I showed him my Ring Jacket jacket, he felt the soft shoulder construction and was quite impressed because it still had great shape. He said that there was very thin cotton padding and that he probably couldn't replicate it, although he says he can make a jacket with considerably softer shoulders than the jackets he currently displays.
It all seems pretty promising, but I'll have to see it to believe it. I will definitely be hitting him up to make me a suit the next time I'm back in Malaysia.
Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:46 PM
From what you describe, buttonliew is one of the usual tailors who basically sits there and waits for customers to tell him what they want. What a lousy way to make a living. No heavyweight brand is built this way. I believe in a very different business model, one where the tailor defines the product and the product chooses its customers. In the tailor-customer relationship, the tailor must dominate. It used to be this way in the glory days of SR, but somewhere along the way the power was inverted.
The suit should always be the tailor's creation, not the customer's. All this kowtowing to customers and saying that bespoke is anything the customer wants is the way of the mediocre.
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