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shanecross

Trousers/Pant

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Hey everyone,

 

I was actually contemplating to pos ta new thread on trousers but since there are none, I thought I should give it a go. I was wondering if anyone has ever made trousers through AL. It seems that AL is charging 160 for a polyester based trousers and 220 for cotton trousers. Would it be advisable to get my own materials or the in-house fabric is more than adequate? It s a little difficult for me to get decent trousers without going to the tailor to either taper the trousers. Generally, I have to get a bigger sized trousers to accommodate the thigh area but at the cost of a bigger waist. This means that I have to tighten the belt way too much which IMO is not an ideal way of wearing a trousers, especially when they are tucked in as they look all creased up on the waist area.

 

On a separate note, where do most of you get your trousers? Uniqlo? Dockers have decent trousers but from my experience they tend to be loose especially the D2, D3 series. The D1 is nicely tapered but they naturally flare up a little on the lower end, hence makin the pants look like a bootleg.

 

Would appreciate if anyone could throw in some advise

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how much is AL's workmanship for trousers?

 

i bought a few lengths of fabric from binwani's recently.

 

i tailor my work pants. no ready made trousers come close to the fit of tailored trousers, in your case especially, with the folds at the waist area.

 

bought a pair of chinos from uniqlo, slightly tight but overall pretty good.

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Trousers can be taken in at the waist. Up to 1" is feasible without causing the pants to be distorted too much. Most tailors are reluctant to take in more than this.

 

The calf-to-hem area can be easily tapered, a great deal of tapering can take place here but it will be a more expensive alteration since both seams need to be redone.

 

I have had linen trousers made but not yet chinos. Finding a source of quality cotton drill is tough. The good ones are truly expensive and the cheaper ones feel terrible. There seems to be no middle quality, the sort that corresponds to GAP or Dockers. It's either luxury drill or farmer's drill.

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I like to get Uniqlo 'vintage' chinos and have them taken in from the knee down. Sometimes with a 2" cuff too!

 

I've had perfectly servicable cotton for trousers from Iris' house books. I don't remember what the name on the book said. I think it was something vaguely Italian. I've had four or five pairs made for the low side of SGD100-200 each. Nothing beats bespoke trou!

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Hey Elpistol,

 

What sort of materials did you get from Binwanis? Are they good materials in terms of cooling etc? I am not quite sure how much AL charge for labor when making a pant. What is the length that is commonly required to make trousers?

 

Hey Kotmj,

So you saying that GAP and Dockers are actually on the crappy line of trousers? I have not had any experience with gap. I do have a Banana Republic grey chinos. Fits well but tends to pull a little on the hamstring area. On a separate note, I have not had experience with Uniqlo. Might give them a try. I think its 169 each right? Im keen on getting beige, navy, and some shades of grey. Wouldn't mind some nice brown ones too !

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To determine the length you need you take a pair of your trousers and measure it from top of waistband down to the hem then add 20 cm or so.

 

I think GAP uses good cotton, just not the sort for the bespoke trade. Uniqlo has large quality variation depending on design and collection. Some are for farmers while others are very nice.

 

Next level chinos would be in pink and yellow and powder blue.

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I have a pair of mabitex in turquoise that I wish to sell. Size 34 waist I don't know the inseam but I'm about 5 foot 10. Hemmed with two inch cuffs. :)

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shane - if i am not mistaken, it is super 130s wool cashmere. not too sure about the quality. i bought it because i liked the colour, and it was really cheap.

 

i usually buy 1.5m for trousers.

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Just bought a pair of chinos from uniqlo. Past season one, so its a little bit on the thicker/less smooth material since it was the winter collection. Light brown. Just to give it a shot and see how it wears. I need to taper the lower end a little bit, it flares a little bit. Ahh joonian, if only it was 30-31....I would really consider it...

Thanks for the heads up kotmj,

Went to GAP today in KLCC since i occasionally go to FF in Avenue K, couldn't kop anything since the ones they have on sale are all 33inch waist on above...

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Hi guys..need your opinion.

Any thoughts on having a side slit at the end of the trousers?. A lot of golf trousers are coming out with these style.

I think this style was started in the late 60's.

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Hi guys..need your opinion.

Any thoughts on having a side slit at the end of the trousers?. A lot of golf trousers are coming out with these style.

I think this style was started in the late 60's.

I wonder what function the slits have?

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I wonder what function the slits have?

I think the purpose is that the hem would falls/fit nicely over the shoes. Fail to find pics for this purpose.

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I was at Uniqlo today and they were having a cheap deal on Wool trousers for RM49.90. Thought of getting the navy one, but then something struck me about having sweaty things from the wool. But it wears really comfortable if you spend most of your time in an AC confined area.

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Which Uniqlo was this? I wanted those grey wool pants so badly, but they were out of sizes in the 1U store (at least thats what they told me). Im a 76cm.

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Guess I'll have to go back to Uniqlo and dig around. Anyway - trouser details by Button Liew. Fit pics will be up, when I get around to it. This was done in a Holland and Sherry "Gold Leaf" fabric. I don't know anything about the fabric, but from looking at it - it's quite porous, in a twill weave, and is about 10oz. Wears reasonably cool. RM500 all up for this pair.

 

One observation, the waist band feels quite "crispy", like it has cardboard inside. Haven't felt anything like this before, might it be a "local" tailoring trait? I'll have to ask him when I see him again.

 

 

1) Button holes - standard issue at Button Liew

photo-8.jpg

 

2) Button stalk

 

photo-10.jpg

 

3) Stock standard side adjusters

photo-11.jpg

 

4) Some textured fabric along the sides of the inner waistband. Apparently that fabric is to stop your shirt from coming out so easily. Button said it was a detail found on older trousers. He thought I might get a kick out of it.

 

photo-9.jpg

 

About our conversation today:

 

Button is a second generation tailor who learned the trade from his father, who owns Lean Seng Tailor up in Perlis. He seems pretty knowledgable about jackets and such, and lamented on the fact that the majority of his clients are only interested in a fast turnaround in a brand name fabric (Zegna sells extremely well). He also has some awesome Loro Piana linen (380 grams/metre) swatches, which he says "barely gets a look" by customers. He quoted me RM4,000 for a jacket in that linen - fully handmade with floating canvass, half lining, with soft shoulders. He said that it would take at least a month to complete, with multiple fittings. He also said a half-lined jacket in Malaysia is perceived to be of "lower quality" than a fully lined one, which is why he doesn't get any requests for half-lined jackets.

 

When I showed him my Ring Jacket jacket, he felt the soft shoulder construction and was quite impressed because it still had great shape. He said that there was very thin cotton padding and that he probably couldn't replicate it, although he says he can make a jacket with considerably softer shoulders than the jackets he currently displays.

 

It all seems pretty promising, but I'll have to see it to believe it. I will definitely be hitting him up to make me a suit the next time I'm back in Malaysia.

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Yeah, the stiff, crispy waistband is a local tailoring trait.

 

From what you describe, buttonliew is one of the usual tailors who basically sits there and waits for customers to tell him what they want. What a lousy way to make a living. No heavyweight brand is built this way. I believe in a very different business model, one where the tailor defines the product and the product chooses its customers. In the tailor-customer relationship, the tailor must dominate. It used to be this way in the glory days of SR, but somewhere along the way the power was inverted.

 

The suit should always be the tailor's creation, not the customer's. All this kowtowing to customers and saying that bespoke is anything the customer wants is the way of the mediocre.

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If you take the "standard" specifications of our tailors here. Well, you know what you end up with.

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On my next pair of trousers, I'll use what Jefferey Diduch uses for his waistband interlining: hair canvas. I have a stiff one here that would be perfect.

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It's probably some sort of extra crispy fusible interlining. Ah well, I shall choose to look at it as "charming".

 

I never thought that the waist band of tailored trousers even had interlining. Live and learn.

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I think you can get away with it if you are usually working in an air-conditioned office. I had some trousers made from Minnis Crown Classic (about 11 oz) when HFW had them marked down by more than 50%. They are quite comfortable for me in the office.

 

I like the colour - will go well with cream or light blue shirts, I think.

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I stocked up quite a bit in one order. The shipping starts around 35GBP but only increases to 45GBP or so even after your order has quite a few lengths. So the average shipping works out not too bad. Of course, I wish shipping could be much lower.

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