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shanecross

Trousers/Pant

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I am not qualified for any tailoring review but I thought you guys might like some pictures of the trousers. New tailoring establishment that I patronized, although the proprietors are familiar to me. Overall fit is pretty good, with trousers hanging cleanly. Single visit, measurement with no baste fitting. Pretty good experience and proprietors are chatty. Nothing spectacular, just thought of sharing.

 

Pictures taken with Iphone 6 Plus. DSLR is not with me now. Colours are not as accurate or even consistent, as you can tell from the pictures.

 

 

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Fabric is dry and the colour should be slightly darker than shown in pictures. Rustic in texture rather than smooth. Fairly porous - should be suitable for all-weather wear. Yes both sections of the waistbands are cut curved. Back pocket flaps are what I wanted. I am not totally enamored with the newly sourced buckles. The tab seems to be made slightly too small and rather limp, so it slips out sometimes. Pretty non-functional right now. Saving grace is that the waistband of trousers holds up on its own. I think the trousers are cut exactly to my waist size now - meaning I cannot afford to have much fluctuations in weight.  

 

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There is a minute amount of curvature at the hem of the trouser legs, but I am not sure. My other pairs of trousers made by a Shanghai establishment as well as Joe's are cut with a greater degree of curvature at the hem. Not something I am obsessed with, but just something I noticed.

 

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Back pocket flaps with buttons. Buttons are plastic. I wish that at the price I paid, they would all be horn. Still, the stitching is pretty decent. Might specify zippers instead, for next commission.

 

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Zipper region with an almost hidden button hole. Buttons are again plastic. Oddly enough, the 2 buttons shown here are completely different from each other and from the buttons used for the back pockets. Zipper is from YKK. Seems like a default that trousers do not come with fabric labels, unlike jackets. 

 

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Front lining, most likely rayon. Nearly all the way to the hem. Not the back though. Not what I specified, but nonchalant about this. Slight disappointment that heel reinforcements are not default. Might have to go back to get these added in place. I usually wear boots so having reinforcements is at least psychological.

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Is anyone familiar with the textile brand Lanificio? Supposed from Spain. Ordered from a swatch 100% wool. Just collected the trousers.

I don't speak Italian, but I think lanificio stands for woollen mill. It's not a brand. If I don't know for sure where a cloth comes from, I just assume China regardless of selvedge or exhortations of the seller to the contrary.

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I don't speak Italian, but I think lanificio stands for woollen mill. It's not a brand. If I don't know for sure where a cloth comes from, I just assume China regardless of selvedge or exhortations of the seller to the contrary.

 

Thanks for your views! I will never be able to afford an Ambrosi, but a workable local product should be sufficient for my needs. There is a label stating that the cloth is milled in Spain. I was taking a punt that Chinese mills are much more likely to claim English or Italian origins than Spanish ones.

 

I might go back to fix the side adjusters, change those buttons and add in heel reinforcements/guards.

 

Speaking of Ambrosi, I think Hwa Seng can do pretty good trousers with fancier details. Like Gurkha trousers. And full piping on the waistband, inner lining and pockets. 3.5' adjustable waistband etc.

 

 

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OK putting myself on the line here. Possibly driven by the appearance of RvdV in the suiting thread. Frankly I hate taking pictures of myself.

 

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Any comments welcome. 

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From what I can see in the photos, they're nice, modern-style trousers. A bit narrow at the bottoms for my tastes, but that's not an issue. It looks like there's something going on at the seat seam. Back pockets/flaps look nice...a few centimetres lower than usual though? There some of the rippling at the side seam at the thigh-level. Could be the excess back length or maybe you just need to pull them up!

 

All-in-all a great pair of trousers. Any close-up pics?

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Please see post #851 above. Yes same trousers but closeup photos taken by iPhone 6 Plus do not nail colour consistently. Trousers tend to slip a little but I am going to get the tailor fix those buckle tabs.

Shirt is from another tailor by the way. The collar roll is great but I can see from the photos that the back end of the collar has a tendency to collapse in a strange way.

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Well, they can be placed after trouser lengths have been determined and agreed upon by both tailor and client. Usually heel reinforcements are from the same fabric and placed in a single strip just at the back end of trouser hems. Like this in a few pictures pulled off elsewhere. Perhaps easier to amend and adjust?

 

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The other arcane aspect of trousers which may be of interest is the amount and distribution of inlays. The seat seam would have inlays to allow expansion of the waistband. The topside (front) are sometimes cut with seam allowance (obviously) but no inlays. The underside (the back of trousers) typically have inlays. The amount and how this amount varies through the leg is different from cutter to cutter.

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Not sure how many of you know/remember, but I actually have a pair of vintage super high quality bespoke Japanese morning trousers in my closet. Part of my collection. I may take a fresh set of pics to show you guys how you should never mess with the Japanese when it comes to making things.

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Not sure how many of you know/remember, but I actually have a pair of vintage super high quality bespoke Japanese morning trousers in my closet. Part of my collection. I may take a fresh set of pics to show you guys how you should never mess with the Japanese when it comes to making things.

 

Found it.

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Kotmj - "Is it this big when flaccid?"

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Hi there guys....

 

Can someone help me please with comments on fit and (if this is the wrong thread let me know too pls) shape.

This is for a suit from Iris in Singapore. First fit on chosen farbic - sadly bad lighting and so i tried to up the brightness and contrast (which makes it a little grainy - well the images are dodgy and i am a flickr newby).

You'll notice some pins in the left lower leg, this was to try shorted a little as Nani felt the break was too big.

Appreciate any and all help.

 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/136299054@N08/shares/mWu9xT/

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Thank you very much Kotmj. That's put me at ease as I am a little paranoid about fit and shape for what will be a suit for my upcoming wedding and the first expensively tailored suit (relative to other SG / HK 24hr offerings).

I was primarily worried about those diagonal pull lines from the knee and from just below the pocket. Well and the shirt line at the back. Any other critique or is what I'm referring to quite normal?

 

Overall though I think the fabric drapes nicely even though Nani has it pretty tight on me - I will have to go easy on the Ramen until the wedding.

 

Kotmj how easy is it to have more room in the thigh of a pair of trousers? Once impossible?

 

Happy Hari Raya Haji folks!

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I just noticed that the trousers are already made up, i.e. completed. It's not in baste form. The diagonal lines are relatively mildly manifested; it is possible removing them will compromise sitting comfort.

 

The amount of ease can be made infinitely large in the thighs; on a completed pair it depends on amount of inlays, which is normally quite considerable in the case of bespoke.

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Been thinking about this picture. The front coin pocket is cut a little too high. A belt will hide the opening. The button hinders movement into the entrance. Either the coin pocket gets moved slight lower than the waistband or the front flap and button are entirely removed. 

 

I'm also wondering if frogmouth pockets will be a better choice than slanted pockets chosen here. While frogmouth pockets are not popular, the front coin pocket can be artfully camouflaged by the seams of a frogmouth. 

 

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