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shanecross

Trousers/Pant

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I don't see how putting in buttons for braces would hurt. Call it TriSecure . Belt, side adjuster, and braces capable.

I just picked up a pair of trousers from the famed pants making Mola family in naples. It has braces and a ''front tab''.

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something different from the current conversation -

 

anyone face issues with tearing fabric at the groin area of the pants? how would you patch it if there was a hole!?

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something different from the current conversation -

 

anyone face issues with tearing fabric at the groin area of the pants? how would you patch it if there was a hole!?

 

I usually have the same problem. I either get it cut differently, order 2 of the same pants or in a heavier cloth. 

 

Pics!

 

The side adjuster above. 

 

X5lKPj.jpg

 

Front tabs - ends at the first of the 2 pleats. 

 

 

3jnM4r.jpg

 

A lot of hand work goes into the pants - or your can request for practical ones and it's half the price. Price is subject to the level of finish. 

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Would you wear a side adjuster pants with just shirt without coat/blazer/suit/sport coat in Malaysia business environment?

I very much doubt side adjuster trousers are that unusual to warrant attention.

 

So what if they do?

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IMG_20161002_110907_zps0m3y2s57.jpg

 

Better pictures and description of the Neapolitan trousers from several posts ago. The first thing to strike you is the profuse amount of hand sewing. Everywhere. Even on highly stressed seams. For instance, the whole crotch seam coming up to the waistband seam -- the most stressed seam in tousers -- is sewn with a single row of backstitch. Over here, this seam is machine sewn TWICE, i.e. two overlapping lockstitch rows. The backstitch on the Italian pantaloni is not some specially evolved stitch. It is the archtypal backstitch of medium density that, when you hold the seam up to the light, you can see the gaps between the stitches. The thread used is however quite thick, nearly as thick as those used to sew jeans. This thread is used for the entire trousers including to sew the buttonholes.

 

IMG_20161002_111220_zpsw1yafz0t.jpg

 

The same thread used to secure the raw cloth edges. I am not sure if this is hand sewn or machine zigzag. 50-50 chance of both -- I really can't tell.

 

IMG_20161002_110944_zpswlsbtp4j.jpg

 

Adjustable waistband, aka "front adjuster".

 

IMG_20161002_111020_zpsnnui9ni9.jpg

 

The hand stitches are used both in structural seams as well as for decoration.

IMG_20161002_111123_zpsaj6th9m0.jpg

 

^Another example of decorative hand stitching. The zip fly is sewn on by hand -- very neatly.

 

When commissioned in Naples, the cost to have something like this made is quite moderate.

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Hey guys,

 

What do you think of the fit of the trousers? Try to ignore the giant pepero btw lol. I like the length but thinking of making the hem slanted.

Nice trousers and shirt, I must say. Who did this commission? 

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I was out in HK the other week and dropped by the Armoury. Was convinced to try on a rtw ambrosi trousers. Alas it was too tight. Then again at 6k pls HKD, not sure whether I could afford it anyways.

 

One thing I did want to raise though is there was a lot of buttons! At least 4 or 5 buttons instead of a zip and another few more across the band. I mean, how inconvenient if you wanted to take a piss! What do you guys think?

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I like button fly trousers. My old jeans had them. I always felt zips to be too modern as I have an irrational love for old things despite how inconvenient they are. Even down to cigarette packs; I like the soft packet ones from Lucky Strike. But no, I don't have a gramophone in my house or much antique furniture for that matter.

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Work trousers where u need to tuck in your shirt and tidy it every time you go to the gents is more of a hassle.

 

But i do have a few pairs made that way. To see how it feels. 

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IMG_20170410_203202_zpsprlxlhyu.jpg

 

Here is a trouser pattern drafted by a 70-something year old career trousermaker. Making trousers is the only job he has ever known. I took this picture because I found the markings so quaint. I tried out his skills by asking him to draft trousers for four of my customers.

 

I am ambivalent about the outcome of this batch of four drafts. He hit it spot on with one. I barely had to edit the pattern after the fitting. Two were completely off and one was only so-so. I think in the future I will continue to make the patterns and he will only sew.

 

This trousermaker is also quite bad at keeping to delivery datelines, having frustrated me several times by having nothing to deliver at a date we had negotiated during work package handover.

 

Once, I went to collect the trouser bastes as agreed. I found him in his chair reading the newspapers. But the trousers were not even close to ready. He asked for a few more days. I told him this is unacceptable.

 

There was nothing I could do but return a few days later. As I walked towards his little workshop, I was fuming. I was going to pick up the trousers---and tell him I am dropping him. I will no longer use him.

 

As I walked, I asked myself if there is another way to look at the situation. Why is he still working? He clearly doesn't need the income--- he has very, very few customers and is supported financially by his children. And why did he say, in a peculiar tone, that he will retire in about 3 years? The way he said it made an impression on me because of the way he said it. Yet, I could feel him clammering onto the jobs I give him. With some desperation, almost. He wants these jobs. Why?

 

It then occured to me he is afraid he will die shortly after retirement. He wants to continue working because he thinks it is what keeps him alive. It gives him a reason to wake up in the morning. A reason to keep going. To know that he is needed.

 

By the time I arrived at his workshop, I treated him like you would treat the terminal patients in a hospital ward. I guess the role I play in his life is to give him a trickle of jobs until he kicks the bucket. That's fine. I can do that.

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You seriously need a tracking system with so many different people working for you.

Has the QR code been implemented on all ur garments now?

 

I miss the customer fit pics........

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