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shanecross

Trousers/Pant

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I also have fit pics of the trousers on the customer it was cut for.

But they might bring about the downfall of the house of Ambrosi.

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Cuffs on Ambrosi. Notice the constriction on the trouser leg as a result of the top of the cuff not having a bigger diameter. This, too happens on some of my trousers, but that's because I got tired of teaching and reteaching the trousermakers. I would tell them not to cause the constriction, and they sometimes would. The moment I stop mentioning it, it comes back again. So I gave up on this battle. But I have a good excuse! My trousers cost a small fraction of Ambrosi.

I actually know how to permanently solve this problem but it requires a lot of organisational changes. The fact that Ambrosi also suffers from this suggests to me that perhaps Ambrosis are also sewn by independent trousermakers working from home, and who are thus not constantly subject to the vigilant attention of the brand owners. If these were sewn by salaried employees working on premises, it will not happen because you can give them a kick or a whack on the head each time they sew the cuff like this. Nobody likes to be whacked so often, so eventually they do it right. Unless they work from home, where they are not whacked. Sorry if I sound a little coarse, but we are dealing with "cari makan" people here---trousermakers are not these special beings with very high expectations of themselves. They are mostly feckless. Their only ambition is to make a living.

But, to put things in perspective, this is what the founder of Nomos watches would call a "ultrafeines Problem", literally an ultra fine problem, or more idiomatically, a subtle problem. It's just a bit of constriction near the cuffs. Big deal. The only reason I mention it here is because there is nothing subtle about the price of an Ambrosi. At their price, it is reasonable to expect no constriction.

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The underside is extremely typical. Practically the entire world sews the underside of the cuffs like this, except in Malaysia people would serge the cut edge of the cloth before the cross stitching is performed. Notice also how the cloth has been machine serged along the long seams. The long seams were also machine sewn---just like the rest of the universe. There are no buttons to secure the cuff---just some simple hand tacks, pretty much like the rest of the world including the tailors above the Pasar Besar Bentong.

Also notice the inlay convention. No inlay on the front. 3/4" inlay on the rear. Practically identical to the inlay convention in Malaysia.

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The front of an Ambrosi. Double coin pockets, extended waistband, and a single hand-attached waistband loop. Read that again: Only one loop. Not for a belt. For the extended waistband.

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At the rear, two welted pockets.

It is a big mystery to me how one would tighten the waistband to account for fluctuations in weight. You can't use a belt. There are no side adjusters. The waistband has one fixed circumference without any means for user adjustment.

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One of the nice features is this ultra extended waistband, here seen from the underside. Due to the hand felling, it takes a while to make this. I can think of at least one way to make this that consumes half as much labour, but the result is not as nice.

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The buttonholes are all handsewn, with variable quality. The nicest buttonholes, one of which is pictured above, are on the waistband extension. The worst are on the rear pockets, pictured below.IMG_20180318_182036.jpg?raw=1

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Talk of the button fly brings us to the front rise. It is a mind boggling 10.5" of front rise on a seat measure of maybe 39". Which means the crotch of the trousers are very low. Eventually, when I get to the fit pics, which may cause the collapse of the global Ambrosi franchise which triggers the global economic meltdown every pundit has been waiting for, you will see what this actually means. This is before I get into the back rise, which is interstellar.

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Here, you see everything that makes an Ambrosi special and which constitutes 70% of the value added. You have a striped waistband made of shirting. Below it, you have the box pleated waistband curtain whose fold line has been pick stitched by hand in black thread. The waistband has been hand felled to the waistband curtain. The waistband curtain, the "Bauchhalter" (tummy restrainer) and the pocket bags are all made of a cheap herringbone polycotton. A special feature is that the front pocket bags have been slip stitched to the side seam allowance. The two buttonholes on the tummy restrainer were sewn by hand.

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Do you think if you paid local trouser makers enough they will achieve such level of finishing?

Now i am very curious to see the fit pics. 

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Ambrosi in action.

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Before taking these pictures, I tried to adjust the trousers so that they would correspond to the intention of the fitter, i.e. I tried to show them at their best.

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A feature of Ambrosi's cut is a very high back rise, very apparent in the picture above. This high backrise has been reported by Crompton, too, with Ethan Newton remarking that it is a good thing.

I've been mulling over this feature, but cannot say much at this point. I may try it out on select customers in my own practice to see what I learn.

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What I hope to do is spend 1.5 hours creating a paper pattern from this trousers, to get a better idea of the features of the Ambrosi cut.

I also need to look into the ironwork content. I suspect it is nil. Because, none jumped out at me, and because if there was ironwork, the Armoury guys would have the whole world know.

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The trousers are practically new, yet the label is already coming off. This is not a knock on Ambrosi. It is a general problem with the sort of handstitch used to secure labels.

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Was this a bespoke comission or from the RTW line of Ambrosi? 

Why would the customer accept a completed trouser that is this ill fitting from such a famous house and havinf paid so much?

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This customer came from his place in that electric scooter! He came to pick up his new trousers, pictured, in Standeven mohair, what used to be Halstead Explorer.

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