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#21 "6"

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 02:12 AM

It's probably some sort of extra crispy fusible interlining. Ah well, I shall choose to look at it as "charming".

I never thought that the waist band of tailored trousers even had interlining. Live and learn.

#22 shanecross

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 09:44 AM

This does look like a nice shade of gray for trousers. Wonder if its a little bit on the heavy side for our climate?

http://www.ebay.co.u...85#ht_500wt_986

#23 hst20

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 09:52 AM

I think you can get away with it if you are usually working in an air-conditioned office. I had some trousers made from Minnis Crown Classic (about 11 oz) when HFW had them marked down by more than 50%. They are quite comfortable for me in the office.

I like the colour - will go well with cream or light blue shirts, I think.

#24 shanecross

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 09:55 AM

Shipping hits you hard tho. 35GBP. twice the price of the fabric. :P

#25 hst20

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 11:03 AM

I stocked up quite a bit in one order. The shipping starts around 35GBP but only increases to 45GBP or so even after your order has quite a few lengths. So the average shipping works out not too bad. Of course, I wish shipping could be much lower.

#26 kotmj

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 02:09 AM

Bermuda shorts: The next big thing
http://therakeonline...RT_8jvxdn32.pdf

#27 joonian

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 03:23 AM

I've got a bunch of bespoke shorts. The key is appropriate footwear and an interesting belt.

#28 shanecross

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 03:53 AM

I was looking on SF today and saw a very nice linen pants.http://www.styleforum.net/t/283614/custom-31w-31-5l-custom-tan-linen-trousers-by-mr-ned-of-nyc

Spoke to the seller, nice chap, but still agonizing if i should get it. Do you guys think its worth the 80usd, or I'm better off getting 1.3-1.5m of cloth and getting them tailored by AL?

#29 joonian

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 03:56 AM

Might be worth it just to get a feel for the finish and details. But you'll probably have to do some alterations to it any way, so you have to factor that into the total price. In all, you probably won't save money compared to a direct commission from Ah Loke, but the premium you pay will be to check out what other tailors are capable of.

#30 shanecross

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:02 AM

That makes sense, thanks joonian !

Now, where can I source out tan colored linen...any ideas? I find it difficult to find materials similar to the cotton chinos, does anyone know where I could source them out? The ones on ebay (Brit fabrics, huddersfield) don't seem to have any excess of them.

#31 joonian

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:26 AM

Hmm, I've been pretty lucky that the tailors I use stock cheap cotton twills. I'm not sure how else to find the stuff. Binwani's? Other random textile merchants?

#32 "6"

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 04:32 AM

On my next pair of trousers, I'll use what Jefferey Diduch uses for his waistband interlining: hair canvas. I have a stiff one here that would be perfect.


When trying to source my own interlining for my next pair of trousers, I came across "wool-hair" and "horse-hair" interlining. From what I know, isn't horse hair used for chest interlinings? Can both do the trick for trouser waistbands? Wool hair interlining is the cheaper option.

#33 kotmj

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 02:12 PM

The only material that would be suitable is probably wool-hair. There is no industry standard for the terms.

Basically, one type (the softer one) is used on the entire length of the jacket front, Some people call this category of canvasses "body canvas". The other type, much stiffer, is used on the chest only, terminating above the working button. I and many others call this "chest canvas".

You want to buy a body canvas, but a firmer sort of body canvas.

I'll bring along some samples on Sunday.

#34 helnaur

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 07:11 AM

Not sure if this'll help, Shanecross, but here're goes anyway. They're a bit on the greenish side though.

http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_500wt_1069


On the subject, I just managed to pick up a pair of cream linen pants on sale. Unfortunately, the pockets/half-lining are quite visible under the fabric (my complexion's quite dark so that makes the contrast a smidgen worse). What d' you think, gentlemen? Ought I return it for a refund (I still can) or should I wear them in KL with heck of a lot of sprezz?

#35 shanecross

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 08:52 AM

Hey helnaur,

I like that color, green linen sounds like a good walk about pants. Anyway, I think you should just rock-up with that cream linen pants. My complexion is also a little bit on the not so bright side, anyway, post a picture. That would be great ! Thanks for the link btw !

#36 hst20

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 09:18 AM

All from Dugdale Bros - New Fine Worsted, Linen and Cotton.
Getting some summer trousers for myself.

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#37 "6"

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 09:44 AM

some good looking colours there.

#38 goliath

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:45 PM

Bought two lengths of twill cotton while I was in Hanoi over the weekend. One in navy, the other khaki.

1 meter costs RM11.00, will see how it holds after I have them made up.

#39 residentdandy

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:53 PM

goliath, why didn't you try having them made up in Hanoi (just to see the workmanship)?

"In matters of grave importance, style, not sincerity, is the vital thing." - Oscar Wilde

http:/www.instagram.com/residentdandy


#40 goliath

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:59 PM

Was thinking of it, but decided not to as I did not bring a pair for them to copy. Plus language was an issue.

Anyone had a chance to test their tailoring capabilities?




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