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kotmj

kotmj's Tailoring Notes

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This thread has been a very enlightening read. Thanks Jeremy for posting all these! Already feel like having another suit made...even though I just had one made...

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Turning this into a tuxedo ... the customer's 7th suit with me. Every time he orders a suit he makes it sound like it's the last he'll ever need. Then a few months later I hear from him again about needing a couple more.

1-IMG_7389_zpskfu7k5dq.jpg

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...Already feel like having another suit made...even though I just had one made...

 

 

#struggleisreal

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I hope it looks great on the customer. Did a third party delivery.

 

The task I dislike most in this business is ordering stuff. Buttons, cloth, etc. It's not easy, ordering stuff. It takes hours to order buttons, and several back and forth.

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yeah. all b2b supply chains are so inherently random and inefficient. only a handful of industries can boast of efficient supply and communication chains. there must be a way for software to reduce this friction.

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I was just looking at the prices of wedding dresses today when I realised why some grooms order two suits from me for their wedding. They felt bad that they spend only half what their fiancé do on clothes for the big day. Even my most expensive models are only half the price of a designer RTW wedding gown.

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About a year ago, or more, I was watching Wong Kar Wai's "The Grandmaster" where there was a scene which involved an overcoat button. I think someone was selling off his overcoat, but saved one of its buttons for himself as a keepsake. The camera did a closeup of the button lying on a table. It was the most substantial horn button I've seen in my life. It was large, it was thick, and it was sculptural. (The movie took many years to make and Wong Kar Wai is a perfectionist, down to the smallest wardrobe details.)

 

I was perusing the overcoat button options just now but could find no equivalent.

 

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This jacket has something unusual. I call it a Doppelreversabnäher (DRA) -- a double gorge dart. Customer has big pecs.

1-IMG_7978_zps4o6htbqh.jpg

 

Can you teach us more on the double gorge dart ? What is the purpose of adding this ? for a fuller shape ?

 

And one more queston (inspire from your half linning H&S above) : How much extra fabric is needed for half linning and self linning ?

 

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The gorge dart is there to prevent the lapel crease line which forms the front edge from gaping. This is a phenomenon where there is a pocket of air between the lapel and the chest. Causes are

 

1) an upper back which is not wide enough,

2) a too far receeded front edge (neckpoint issue),

3) front shoulder line cut too sloping, or,

4) the lack of darting in the gorge.

 

You address causes 1 to 3, then if there is still a gaping, you put in a dart of about 1/2". Then, if after addressing causes 1 to 3 and putting in a 1/2" gorge dart there is still gaping, you put in another dart. What else can you do?

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I was shocked as I took delivery of a batch of buttons which includes overcoat buttons just now. For comparison, to the left is a 32L suit jacket button.

1-IMG_8240_zpsgmju1fdp.jpg

 

1-IMG_8239_zpsdwaeixdi.jpg

 

Somehow the pictures do not convey the size of the larger button adequately. They will look like super large diameter dark nipples on a DB overcoat.

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I found it. A picture of the overcoat button used in "The Grandmaster", the Wong Kar Wai film:

 

"As sometimes happens in Wong’s films, love tokens are on display. When the Japanese invasion prevents Ip from visiting Gong Er, he sells his heavy coat to get money to feed his family, but he tears off one button to keep as a reminder. In Hong Kong he obliges Er to take it. At their last meeting, she returns the button to him, but after her death she reciprocates his gift by giving him the gilded box that holds the ashes of her hair."

 

Button-400.jpg

http://www.davidbordwell.net/blog/2013/09/23/the-grandmaster-moving-forward-turning-back/

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The jacket portion of a VBC flannel suit from maybe 2 years ago (I'm not sure). It was done in the Liverano style -- no front darts, no side bodies. I suppose it has been worn quite a bit; it seems to be still in quite good condition. For some reason, I almost never see older suits of my own production.

 

The customer has become even more hunched in the years since this was made; for his new suit in the kerbau cloth, the back balance will have to be longer and the front balance shorter.

 

1-IMG_8284_zpsggfydwjz.jpg

 

(^Living like a battery chicken in an urban slum.)

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Oh, and BTW, the jacket above just underwent 8 hours of being stuffed in a suitcase then brought to the hotel stuffed in a Uniqlo plastic bag. I then put it on the mannequin and shot the above picture. I'm beginning to think VBC's worsted flannel is quite crease resistant.

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