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kotmj's Tailoring Notes


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#21 Alievens

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 01:12 AM

Nice shoulder-line.

Why does the front dart extend beyond the pocket line?

Is it your usual jacket length?



#22 kotmj

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 11:46 PM

This is how skeleton bastes are made over here. None of the darts have been cut. They were merely simulated. I hope this technique is new to you; it would be a case of Cantonese tailoring enriching Western tailoring repertoire.!

Yeah, it's the right length for me.

#23 Alievens

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 01:07 AM

I see. I'm afraid I've seen photo's of jackets before, with the darts basted without cutting the pocket opening, but rather in a very sloppy manner. Yours is pretty neat for a basted dart, so I thought it was sewn.

...so no cantonese enriching here. It is not too hard to enrich my western tailoring repertoire though, so feel free to keep trying.



#24 kotmj

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 08:38 PM

My pocket baste was ready, and the coatmaker helped fit me. The fit is amazing, and got me all excited. Collar and shoulder fit is very Savile Row. I'll see if I can take pics tomorrow.

#25 kotmj

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 11:34 PM

Until I can model the baste, here's a mannequin pic.
kerbau4_zpsui201pq8.jpg

#26 kotmj

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Posted 03 May 2015 - 11:28 AM

A quick one
kerbausuit5_zpsgmqkiewc.jpg

#27 kotmj

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Posted 03 May 2015 - 09:29 PM

I was measuring a new customer today when I realised he's pretty much my size. I had him wear my basted jacket. It was a very close fit!
kerbausuit6_zpsrnbphvrl.jpg

#28 kotmj

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Posted 03 May 2015 - 10:14 PM

A quick one
kerbausuit5_zpsgmqkiewc.jpg

Let me explain what I see. Incredible collar fit. See how the collar comes up the neck at the sides; how it curves down the neck to meet with an authoritative shoulder. I'm not even sure what I did to get a collar fit like this. I wish I could produce this on every jacket we deliver.

The shoulder is very nice. Chiselled. Straight. Again, not always achievable.

More achievable is the plump chest. Look at the chest drape! It's a very full chest. None of that fullness comes from my body, it's entirely from the jacket's structure/cut. I almost never get to make chests like this for customers because they do not like the roomy feeling. They feel the jacket is too big/"loose".

Then, the very noticeable but still moderate waist suppression. This is actually a very big jacket... it wears very roomy. Which is how I like them to be.

#29 kotmj

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 01:37 AM

Whenever I think of a beautiful collar-shoulder, I think of Edward Sexton. A beautiful collar-shoulder is very rare; I can't think of anyone else remarkable in this aspect.

In this interview by the truly forgettable and semi retarded Tom Stubbs (there is something very wrong and defective with him), you get to see Sexton's magnificent collar-shoulder; no doubt the product of decades of refinement to his pattern and technique.


#30 "6"

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Posted 05 May 2015 - 09:04 PM

Aristocratic.

Is this cut becoming more popular after kingsman?

#31 kotmj

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 04:13 AM

I did not see any cultural influence Kingsmen may have had in my practice.

kerbausuit7_zpsckcllz4s.jpg

#32 Dano

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 06:37 PM

A quick one
kerbausuit5_zpsgmqkiewc.jpg

 

 

Maybe it is the angle of the camera, but there is something about the skirt in this picture that makes you look like you have a rather rotund hip.



#33 kotmj

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 09:35 PM

It's not the angle of the camera. Camera position doesn't influence the look of a suit much, especially not with moderate focal lengths. Guess how I'd know? (Answer: I take pictures of jackets several times a week.) As an example, if a person's bum looks disproportionate in a picture, it's because his bum is disproportionate, not because of camera angle. No tailor can make a big bum look small, for instance. Only dieting can.

On SF it is very popular to say this and that is due to camera angle. Totally wrong. The human body is a lot stranger than tailors can cut clothes. Camera angle doesn't play a role in fit pics.

In the case of the above pic, I like the skirt flare. It's a very traditional silhouette of hips nearly as wide as chest.

When wearing it, I notice the quarters have a noticeable tendency to come close to the body, instead of being floppy. I've not owned a jacket whose quarters are this well-behaved, and I attribute this effect to something different I did to the canvas this time, and which may find its way to all our jackets.

#34 kotmj

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 10:17 PM

I'm also thinking if we should make shoulders like these for all Bendaharas. They're made differently from the methods commonly employed by KL coatmakers, and was something of an experiment that turned out better than expected. I've been wanting to overhaul the way we make padded shoulders for a long time, but never gotten around to it. Too big a battle.

#35 kotmj

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 01:02 AM

Huge tailoring challenge. 6.5 oz, Super 160's. Almost lining material. The side seam could not withstand the amount of suppression -- it was a total crinkled mess -- so we had to distribute the suppression more evenly between all the seams. Model: Sultan.
ho_dragonfly_zpsfczr8zry.jpg

It doesn't look that bad when worn ... here it is on the customer during the fitting ... I took this pic to show the customer the bubble of extraneous fullness at CB. But generally, I think I should stop letting customers pick from this bunch.
ho_dragonfly2_zpsneheyivo.jpg

#36 kotmj

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 11:50 PM

Who says there are no young people joining the trade? Here's an almost underaged coatmaker-in-training making a fused baste for me.
IMG_7241_zpsiatew3fq.jpg

#37 kenterong

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Posted 09 May 2015 - 03:06 PM

ummm doesn't quite look underaged to me...



#38 kotmj

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Posted 09 May 2015 - 03:53 PM

you judge that from the hands?

#39 kenterong

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Posted 09 May 2015 - 08:14 PM

No, from the top left hand portion of the picture.

#40 kotmj

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 09:52 PM

When talking to her I have to be particularly self-aware otherwise my eyes would be staring downwards instead of in the general direction of her face.

Back shoulder ease
DSCF6676_edited_zpsrt7nzvgy.jpg

There is a pretty well-known Taiwanese tailor I met in Seremban who thinks 1" of back shoulder ease is compulsory, and decried all of the jackets being worn in the room for not having enough. The typical amount used in KL is 3/8" which is also what is used on most RTW. I personally understand his insistence on 1" and the enormous ergonomic benefits of so much back shoulder ease, but on some jackets it is a bit too much and results in vertical creases in the back shoulder. Anyway, we recently upped our ease to 3/4" (which is what you see above) -- working our way to 1". The corrugation in the back shoulder will eventually be pressed flat -- in the finished jacket, there should be no obvious corrugation since the cloth would have been shrunk in that area.




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