kotmj's Tailoring Notes
Posted 10 May 2015 - 10:58 PM
Just joking! The vintage bolt of canvas is mine, all mine, muahahaha!
Posted 17 May 2015 - 07:42 PM
If you look at the skirt on the left of the picture, it is flaring away from the body. The skirt on the right of picture is well-behaved. This is an extremely common phenomenon. What could be the cause? Remember, the jacket was cut symmetrically.
Posted 23 May 2015 - 11:54 PM
This is pretty much an industrial engineering problem. Having worked in that field, I know that one can always come up with a solution to any problem. But, most of the solutions are fucktard solutions. You want an elegant solution, not a fucktard solution. The way I see it, if you do not have an elegant solution, you have no solution.
A fucktard solution in a case like this is to have a checklist for each shirt.
An elegant solution for this is for me to button every button on the shirt before folding and packing. By having to button every button, I will naturally see which is missing.
Posted 26 May 2015 - 01:10 AM
Looking at it, some of you may find the armhole to be low-ish. Nothing could be further from the truth. The first jacket we made him, the customer found the armholes to be touching his armpits; we had to lower it. Now it's just right (this is jacket no. 3).
Posted 13 June 2015 - 01:42 AM
Cloth is a Holland & Sherry 11 oz. "Capehorn Classics". This is the customer's 6th jacket from me.
So, now, there are 33 meters left of the canvas.
Posted 18 June 2015 - 11:04 PM
The boutonniere has always been a problem. We've been making gradual progress on it, going from a faux boutonniere which is traditional in this country to working ones (but not that good), to recently pretty good working ones and now we've added a braided loop on the underside.
Here's how to press the pocket flap without leaving an imprint on the bottom.
Posted 23 June 2015 - 04:02 PM
Then, an idea came to me. I've never seen this in any jacket before. It is very executable and I think people who use their jacket pockets heavily will love it to death. I didn't think it would be this easy to innovate in this area.
I'll see if I can incorporate this in the next jacket we make and take pictures.
Posted 23 June 2015 - 09:24 PM
I'm tempted to give my invention a German name, like VW's Doppelschaltgetriebe, or A. Lange & Soehne's Doppelfederhaus. I want to call mine Doppelfachtasche.
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