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kotmj's Tailoring Notes


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#41 kotmj

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 10:58 PM

The tailors in KL stopped making canvassed jackets sometime in the mid-80's. In this picture, the coatmaker was showing me a bolt of body canvas from the 80's. A coatmaker, now retired, told him he has no use anymore for this bolt, and if he would be interested in buying it off him? It was made in a time before China became the major exporter that it has become, and this canvas very probably is European in origin. The owner insists it is English. My coatmaker asked me if I would buy it, then use it in our jackets. He says he thinks it's the best quality canvas he has come across in years (but I have seen better; in fact it is in my Carlo Barbera jacket). I'm not sure if I want to buy it. There's about 30 meters on the bolt, enough for about 40 jackets. Maybe I should cut it up and offer it for sale on this forum?
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Just joking! The vintage bolt of canvas is mine, all mine, muahahaha!

#42 kotmj

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:17 PM

Got myself a new mannequin yesterday. It is a better fit for this size of jackets.
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#43 kotmj

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 04:00 AM

Snowy River Lightweight... I think 7-7.5 oz.
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#44 kotmj

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 07:42 PM

Lessona wool-linen. First fitting.
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If you look at the skirt on the left of the picture, it is flaring away from the body. The skirt on the right of picture is well-behaved. This is an extremely common phenomenon. What could be the cause? Remember, the jacket was cut symmetrically.

#45 "6"

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 08:35 PM

Ooo guessing game again. Yay.

 

Dropped left shoulder?

 

 

Edit: The colour of the kerbau cloth is really amazing.



#46 kotmj

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 10:07 PM

Yup, the dropped shoulder caused the skirt flaring on the opposite side.

The kerbau cloth is definitely amazing; in the picture it was made even more amazing due to my moonlight amplification apparatus.

#47 kotmj

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 11:54 PM

Recently, the fourth case of a missing button on a new shirt happened. Obviously, a solution is needed to reduce the likelihood of this happening.

This is pretty much an industrial engineering problem. Having worked in that field, I know that one can always come up with a solution to any problem. But, most of the solutions are fucktard solutions. You want an elegant solution, not a fucktard solution. The way I see it, if you do not have an elegant solution, you have no solution.

A fucktard solution in a case like this is to have a checklist for each shirt.

An elegant solution for this is for me to button every button on the shirt before folding and packing. By having to button every button, I will naturally see which is missing.

#48 kotmj

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 01:10 AM

Quarter lined
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Looking at it, some of you may find the armhole to be low-ish. Nothing could be further from the truth. The first jacket we made him, the customer found the armholes to be touching his armpits; we had to lower it. Now it's just right (this is jacket no. 3).

#49 kotmj

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 01:20 PM

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#50 kotmj

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 01:42 AM

A while back, a retired coatmaker asked if we would be interested in buying 34 meters of vintage body canvas from the 1980's off him. I jumped at the opportunity. This is the first jacket we made which uses this vintage canvas. My coatmaker thinks it is an excellent canvas.
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Cloth is a Holland & Sherry 11 oz. "Capehorn Classics". This is the customer's 6th jacket from me.
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So, now, there are 33 meters left of the canvas.

#51 kotmj

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 07:28 PM

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#52 hippotamaus

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 12:25 PM

Wow, these button holes look very nice indeed. 

 

Those canton work tailor will never have something legit as these. 

The self-claimed shanghai tailor....something close but not as nice. 



#53 kotmj

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 11:04 PM

Really? I've seen some really nice buttonholes come out of HK.
 
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The boutonniere has always been a problem. We've been making gradual progress on it, going from a faux boutonniere which is traditional in this country to working ones (but not that good), to recently pretty good working ones and now we've added a braided loop on the underside.

Here's how to press the pocket flap without leaving an imprint on the bottom.
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#54 kotmj

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 04:02 PM

I think I've just invented something quite new. I was sitting here at my desk, thinking of how to make the jacket truer to its function as a piece of personal luggage. I thought of a customer of mine who has an intense need for pockets, and how I can fashion a jacket to be more accommodating to his pocket needs.

Then, an idea came to me. I've never seen this in any jacket before. It is very executable and I think people who use their jacket pockets heavily will love it to death. I didn't think it would be this easy to innovate in this area.

I'll see if I can incorporate this in the next jacket we make and take pictures.

#55 joonian

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 06:59 PM

have you seen ted baker's rumple resistant suits? they have crazy amounts of pockets. 



#56 kotmj

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 09:24 PM

No, I haven't seen the Ted Bakers. I would not want a person to look at my jackets and say they have crazy amounts of pockets. Implementation must always be elegant.

I'm tempted to give my invention a German name, like VW's Doppelschaltgetriebe, or A. Lange & Soehne's Doppelfederhaus. I want to call mine Doppelfachtasche.

#57 kotmj

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 02:44 AM

Ancient trouser pattern being used again. I hope they fit.
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#58 kotmj

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 12:48 AM

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#59 kotmj

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 10:53 PM

Bought the biggest lamp at IKEA. It makes a big difference to fatigue levels. 1050 lumens, 6500K.
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#60 kotmj

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 02:28 AM

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