kotmj's Tailoring Notes
Posted 02 October 2015 - 12:52 AM
I was up at a customer's place this morning to deliver his wedding tux. If I counted correctly, this is his 7th suit with me. His brother-in-law was also there to order a suit from me. He was talking excitedly with his wife and sister, when I took out a camera and shot this. The picture turned out better than expected.
It's a H&S Snowy River Super 120's in navy with a subtle honeycomb texture; the silk satin lapels in navy are from Drapers.
Posted 03 October 2015 - 11:32 PM
I obviously don't make such things for customers. But I wouldn't have it any other way for myself.
I went to KFW's centennial celebration in that outfit this morning.
Posted 04 October 2015 - 01:03 AM
The high lapel gorge and overall shape of the lapels are still quite modern. The shorter jacket also makes it more contemporary looking.
I like the shoulders, full chest and sculpted waist - really good. And as always, the kerbau cloth is amazing.
Is this cut not very marketable?
Posted 06 October 2015 - 09:35 AM
Nice Jacket Kotmj ! I quiet like the cut : the label width (and stitichingis nice), one button design plus shoulder makes it looks unique.
Same here, talking about vintage, I would think of lower gorge, draper, wolf of wall streetish vibe ....acutally that American....so I might be wrong here....
Posted 06 October 2015 - 11:50 AM
I really liked the experience of wearing such a jacket. In the past, I only wore jackets to see customers on foreign trunks; I felt slightly uneasy in them because they did not express my ideals of a jacket.
This kerbau jacket actually comes pretty close to how I think a jacket should be in all the key aspects. The shoulders and chest and amounts of drape are the aspects which typify the fit of a jacket. There are of course secondary aspects which are off -- too large an upper sleeve for the armhole, a 1/4" too low back neck and a collar which sits too low, and sleeves which are too short.
I find myself now casting around for a cloth to turn into another jacket, preferably to be completed in a week! I looked at my cloth stash and found nothing suitable. It may have to come from H&S. It will be made pretty much like the kerbau jacket with some minor improvements.
What I was apprehensive about with the kerbau jacket was the body canvas. I used the stiffest that could reasonably be used in 2015 without incurring incredulity. It turns out to be a great choice. It doesn't feel stiff at all in use -- it simply isn't something that takes the fun out of the jacket, while imparting all the benefits of structure.
Posted 10 October 2015 - 04:04 AM
This is a very, very valid cloth for a DB. And that is a supremely beautiful DB cut. VBC Revenge. For a long suffering customer. It may be my last suit for him because I have made him wait since February for this.
Posted 14 October 2015 - 12:27 AM
Not easy taking a pic of your own butt, but I wanted to show the fishtails.
Really happy with the outcome. I had edited the pattern maybe four months ago, so no longer have any recollection of the specific challenges I faced in producing this pattern, which is a derivation of the pattern used for the wine red chinos.
Posted 14 October 2015 - 01:16 AM
The suspenders are vintage British army.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users