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kotmj's Tailoring Notes


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#101 kotmj

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 02:26 AM

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Flannely goodness

#102 joonian

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 08:51 PM

eh.. where did you get that flan from



#103 kotmj

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Posted 02 October 2015 - 12:52 AM

It's a VBC Super 120's worsted flannel, about 8 oz. That should frighten you off.

I was up at a customer's place this morning to deliver his wedding tux. If I counted correctly, this is his 7th suit with me. His brother-in-law was also there to order a suit from me. He was talking excitedly with his wife and sister, when I took out a camera and shot this. The picture turned out better than expected.
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It's a H&S Snowy River Super 120's in navy with a subtle honeycomb texture; the silk satin lapels in navy are from Drapers.

#104 "6"

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Posted 02 October 2015 - 01:11 AM

And the anticipation for you to unveil your kerbau suit grows.



#105 kotmj

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Posted 03 October 2015 - 12:58 AM

Teaser
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#106 kotmj

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Posted 03 October 2015 - 08:32 PM

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#107 "6"

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Posted 03 October 2015 - 09:30 PM

Hansem



#108 kotmj

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Posted 03 October 2015 - 11:32 PM

Does it have that old school Savile Row vibe? Like a 'vintage "cut"'.

I obviously don't make such things for customers. But I wouldn't have it any other way for myself.

I went to KFW's centennial celebration in that outfit this morning.

#109 "6"

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Posted 04 October 2015 - 01:03 AM

The high lapel gorge and overall shape of the lapels are still quite modern. The shorter jacket also makes it more contemporary looking.

 

I like the shoulders, full chest and sculpted waist - really good. And as always, the kerbau cloth is amazing.

 

Is this cut not very marketable?



#110 kotmj

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Posted 04 October 2015 - 11:30 PM

I would have to survive on plain rice congee if that was my house cut... might sell one suit each quarter...

#111 hippotamaus

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 09:35 AM

Nice Jacket Kotmj ! I quiet like the cut : the label width (and stitichingis nice), one button design plus shoulder makes it looks unique. 

 

Same here, talking about vintage, I would think of lower gorge, draper, wolf of wall streetish vibe ....acutally that American....so I might be wrong here....



#112 kotmj

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 11:50 AM

So I wore the jacket over three days (Saturday-Monday); I went to KFW's event in it, and saw every one of the 11 customer appointments in it.

I really liked the experience of wearing such a jacket. In the past, I only wore jackets to see customers on foreign trunks; I felt slightly uneasy in them because they did not express my ideals of a jacket.

This kerbau jacket actually comes pretty close to how I think a jacket should be in all the key aspects. The shoulders and chest and amounts of drape are the aspects which typify the fit of a jacket. There are of course secondary aspects which are off -- too large an upper sleeve for the armhole, a 1/4" too low back neck and a collar which sits too low, and sleeves which are too short.

I find myself now casting around for a cloth to turn into another jacket, preferably to be completed in a week! I looked at my cloth stash and found nothing suitable. It may have to come from H&S. It will be made pretty much like the kerbau jacket with some minor improvements.

What I was apprehensive about with the kerbau jacket was the body canvas. I used the stiffest that could reasonably be used in 2015 without incurring incredulity. It turns out to be a great choice. It doesn't feel stiff at all in use -- it simply isn't something that takes the fun out of the jacket, while imparting all the benefits of structure.

#113 "6"

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Posted 07 October 2015 - 12:17 AM

After the above post - I forsee demand for this body canvas from Master Tailor Tok's private collection increasing.

You sound like you need more thirsty vintage worsted. Jajaja

#114 kotmj

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Posted 07 October 2015 - 03:17 PM

The sole buttonhole on the front of my kerbau jacket. A gift from the coatmaker -- the best I've seen him make.
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#115 takashi

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Posted 07 October 2015 - 05:40 PM

Planning to lengthen the sleeve?

In the pic it looks like it needs at least another inch.



#116 kotmj

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Posted 10 October 2015 - 04:04 AM

I made a mistake with the paper pattern for the sleeves, which resulted in them being far too short. Only discovered after the cloth was cut. To lengthen the sleeves further would require sewing on a strip of cloth. If I have 2 hours where I'd rather do this than anything else in the world, then, obviously, I would do it.

This is a very, very valid cloth for a DB. And that is a supremely beautiful DB cut. VBC Revenge. For a long suffering customer. It may be my last suit for him because I have made him wait since February for this.
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#117 kotmj

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 01:58 AM

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#118 kotmj

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 12:27 AM

The trousermaker completed my own personal kerbau trousers a few days ago. I put buttons into them just now, pressed them, and put them on. I like the fit so much I cannot help posting some ghetto pics right now. More polished pictures will of course follow in due course.

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Not easy taking a pic of your own butt, but I wanted to show the fishtails.
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Really happy with the outcome. I had edited the pattern maybe four months ago, so no longer have any recollection of the specific challenges I faced in producing this pattern, which is a derivation of the pattern used for the wine red chinos.

#119 kotmj

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 12:30 AM

I think my next suit will also have fishtail back trousers.

#120 kotmj

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 01:16 AM

For buttons, instead of horn, I reached into my stash of vintage buttons. These were manufactured before the second world war; they were made in Germany of tagua nut specifically for use in trousers. I find them the perfect profile for use in trousers.
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The suspenders are vintage British army.




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