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takashi

Bespoke outerwear

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Looking at these pic posted by JT, i have asked a few tailors if they would produce a outerwear kinda jacket and most said no.

 

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So what is everyone's view including JT on producing a shorter version and having the look closer to outerwear?

 

Obvious benefits of bespoke applies, but what type of material would you recommend for the outside?

Harris tweed? some sort of wool that is treated to be more water and wind resistant?

 

Thinking of engaging JT again to make up such a project, maybe for trips and temps which goes as low as 10c is good enough for me. Nothing too thick nor heavy.

 

Some samples of what i have in mind are below.

 

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1940s-Cabourn-2.jpg

 

1940s-Cabourn-1.jpg

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Still like the pea coat. Have not had the time to look around that much these days but I kept these pictures of a Luxire coat which appeals to me very much. Hope you do not mind me sharing here.

 

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OQFNS4P.jpg

 

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That Luxire greatcoat makes being out in the cold worth the inconvenience.

 

A shorter greatcoat with handwarmer pockets is a peacoat. I'm supposed to be making someone a peacoat; it's a W.Bill flannel >20oz.

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Wah Ivan long time no see......

 

Holymoly please share as much as you want.

 

Hmmmm JT please share the progress if possible here of your new project.

 

Maybe what i am looking for is something more casual, easy to lug around and put inside carry on luggage until you reach the destination. 

 

How do the construction differ in terms of having insulating materials inside?

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These things are quite heavy. Like, kilos. I would go with a down jacket from a good brand for portability. Obviously, a down jacket cannot match a tailored overcoat in overall aesthetics, but it is cheap and light.

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IMG_20160625_175308_zpsiqwtrjta.jpg

 

W. Bill flannel for a peacoat. Fortunately for both the customer and I, I've previously made him a double breasted dinner suit so I have a great DB pattern to work off for the peacoat.

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IMG_20160811_133627_zpsddzvkw8f.jpg

 

I decided to make the undercollar for the peacoat myself. Th alternative would be to talk a lot of cock with the coatmaker, explaining this and that and chalking here and there. Might as well just do it myself and pass to him to mount onto the baste. Pad stitching undercollars is probably the least skilled task in coatmaking -- anyone with an IQ of 60 should be able to do it after a single lesson.

 

All jacket collars are, to use shirtmaking terminology -- "one piece" collars -- in the sense that both collar leaf and collar stand are one contiguous piece, not separate pieces. There are no known exceptions.

 

What makes the jacket collar fundamentally different from a shirt collar is how the collar is ironed into a bow shape to better fit the neck and shoulders. This ironing part requires I think at least an IQ of 100 and maybe two or three lessons. It also tells you that jackets cannot be laundered like shirts because laundering would erase this bow shape that has been ironed into it.

IMG_20160811_133740_zps4huellmc.jpg

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The pad stitching in the collar is quite superfluous today, almost like rivets in jeans, or the screws around gold chatons or even the chatons themselves. Its only function is to join the collar interlining (in this case, linen) with the undercollar felt (not visible in the photos) over the whole surface. None of the upscale Italian RTW brands (Canali, Zegna, etc.) use this method of construction anymore because more rational substitutes do an equally good job without the labour expense. Most of the bespoke tailors who feature heavily on tumblr etc. still use the pad stitched undercollar, though the pad stitching is normally done by machine. The pad stitch still has no substitute in the lapels and the chestpiece area of the canvas, but in the collar it has a weak justification for existence, that justification being a romanticism for the archaic way of doing things.

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