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F1refighter

The Newbie Thread: Where it all began

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Definitely lower the button point. Maybe by 1.5-2". The jacket also looks a tad short to me.

 

I stand corrected about the jacket length after looking at the pics again. I do wonder about the balance between the length of the front and back. Visually, it just looks to me that the front is somewhat shorter.

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Crap, that means that I'm the only one who cant view the pictures.

 

Btw, I just noticed that everyone is going for full canvass suits. No wonder it takes Ah Loke a lot of time to finish a suit nowdays. I guess to be safe, you can only expect delivery of a full canvass suit after 3 months. If not, you will be dissapointed.

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I've actually put-off my second fitting until today. Hopefully I'll be able to get off work early to squeeze in my second fitting. And hopefully have it done by end of the month! (although it does seem more and more unlikely due to the insane schedule lol)

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Here's mine.

3piece.jpg

 

3pieceback.jpg

 

2piece.jpg

Based on my observation, I find that the buttons are slightly high so I have requested AL to lower it. Pants are comfortable but I have asked him to make it smaller on the bottom to 15" from 15.25". I have also asked him to tighten for waist suppression but he wouldn't, he says it is fine. I feel that the jacket suit is slightly long, is there a need to shorten it? I also wanted wider lapels but AL says it will not be proportionate to the width of my chest and shoulders.

 

Looking forward to some opinions/comments.

Looks like a nice suit. The buttoning point is radically high. Lowering it is a lot of work for the tailor.

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It's been an insanely busy week for me and finally squeezed my second fitting in, but it didn't go well. Even Ah Loke was unhappy about it that he offered to do a third fitting. Since I wasn't in a rush, sure.

 

Here are the photos.

 

 

img20120217009072.jpg

Shot at 2012-02-18

 

 

img20120217009062.jpg

Shot at 2012-02-18

 

 

img20120217009052.jpg

Shot at 2012-02-18

 

Something looks wrong but we couldn't quite figure out why. Amongst those that we agreed to change:

 

1. Shorten the pants by 1/4in or 1/2"

2. Clean up the back

3. Damn un-even shoulders - which somehow wasn't there in the first fitting

4. Jacket looks like it's sitting to the side a bit

 

Thoughts?

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I'm not certain how representative your posture in the picture is to your normal way of holding your body. Getting you to stand normally is part of the tailor's job.

 

I'm a bit tired today, I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

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Posture plays such a huge part. My whole commission from Iris was ruined because of my awkward and shifting posture. The balance is all wrong.

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I'm not certain how representative your posture in the picture is to your normal way of holding your body. Getting you to stand normally is part of the tailor's job.

 

I'm a bit tired today, I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

 

 

 

Much appreciated! Looking forward to your feedback, man :)

 

 

Posture plays such a huge part. My whole commission from Iris was ruined because of my awkward and shifting posture. The balance is all wrong.

 

That's the thing - perhaps my mistake was to go for my second fitting late after work? Perhaps my body was tired and was positioned in a different way, compared to my first meeting in the morning with the Kerbau-gang when I was still feeling fresh?

 

I'm not sure but feeling a bit scared now with how it'll turn out.

 

Which reminds me, need to tell AL to shave off the shoulder pads.

 

 

 

at least ah loke admits there are problems!

 

Glad that he offered for a third fitting!

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I've taken a closer look, which actually consumes more cognitive energy than most people would think. MBT once told me it's a bad idea for a tailor to do a fitting when he is tired or distracted.

 

Most of the problems from the first fitting are still here in the second. I get the feeling only the trousers were altered while the jacket remained untouched, though this is only conjecture. Back balance is long by about 3/4". If he folded a pleat of this amount along the chest line at the back it would clean up dramatically. The sleeves need to be taken out, ripped, ironed flat, and redrafted with very different pitch marks.

 

Unrelated to firefighter's baste:

I was reflecting last night on the phenomenon of shanecross and The Capitalist having these horizontal pull creases in the upper back while most other customers have no such problem. How could this possibly be due to insufficient back width? After all, they were all measured with the tape and the pattern cut accordingly.

 

Then the cause came to me.

 

The shoulder seam of the back panels are cut 1/2" longer than the corresponding seam at the front. Yet, when sewn together, they end up having the same length. This 1/2" (industry standard, at least in KL) makes the back portion of the shoulder wider than the front portion, which is what almost every person needs. However, some people have particularly bulky backs. These people would need more length eased into the shoulder seam, may 3/4". If the cloth is the sort that refuses to be shrunk, a shoulder dart would have to be employed. However, my own sifu has never made a shoulder dart in his 40+ years of full-time coatmaking. Trying to get a coatmaker to cut more than 1/2" of ease would be like performing root canal surgery on a chicken.

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Guest Mystery

suitfitting3.jpg

 

suitfitting2.jpg

 

suitfitting1.jpg

 

Is the size of the pictures too big? If they are, please do let me know, I will post smaller pictures in the future.

 

 

Suit Jacket

AL had the button lowered by half an inch and it does look better than previously. I hope that the button stance is at the right level as I'm not so sure if I should have it lowered down further.

 

AL also had the back altered accordingly, he asked if I wanted it to be more tighten or leave it as it is. He explained if I were to have it tighten it more slightly, it would look nice but I would have lesser comfort and flexibility. However, I chose to leave it as it is, it does feel comfortable with the current measurement.

 

AL pointed out that my lower back is curvy and that he would have to loosen it on the bottom to give it a drape look.

 

AL is already asking me to provide him the interlining so which means I will have to give the people's textile a visit sometime the next few days. Is there any other places to source interlining fabric? Parking is a headache in Petaling Street.

 

Trousers

AL had forgotten the second time that the trousers is made to wear with braces, he told me that he wanted to tighten the area around the crotch and I said no because it was already tight and I will be pairing the trousers with braces.

 

Now I know what you guys meant when it came to AL's obsession with tight pants. Anyway, AL had the bottom trousers cut smaller to 15" as requested by me and it did make a big difference, it was more comfortable when it was 15.25" but I think it does look nicer at 15". For my next trousers, I would have it either 15.25"or 15.5" and have it loosen by the crotch.

 

On a personal note..

I thought to myself, if I should have went for a better fabric such as H. Lesser from Harrisons since I was paying that much. I'm not expecting perfection but I do hope that my first suit will turn out well since I will be using it on my wedding day.

 

I am already planning to commission another suit but I have not decided if I want just an odd jacket or a two piece suit. I been thinking of having an odd jacket made from the blue H.Lesser swatch fabric which everybody commented on during the gathering at AL's place.

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