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The suiting thread

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Looks nice. Some people may not like their shirt below the buttoning point showing but this is a preference

The shirt below the buttoning point will not show with the completed jacket.

 

Would you care to guess why?

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The shirt below the buttoning point will not show with the completed jacket.

 

Would you care to guess why?

 

More significant overlapping of the fronts when it's buttoned as compared to when it's just pinned together that way?

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More significant overlapping of the fronts when it's buttoned as compared to when it's just pinned together that way?

Not quite.

 

I disregard where the front edge is during fittings. I pin the fronts in a way I find optimal. After the fitting, the front edges are adjusted to the usual 5/8" on each side.

 

In this case, I find the fronts optimal when pinned this way. Later, the front edge will be extended. The shirt will no longer be visible after the extension.

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Not many people on here, I think, have seen the visible construction of English coats, and I thought I would post it up for the benefit of the forum. My HK coats are made to a similar (though somewhat less) exacting standard. The one I will be visiting, I'm told, will make me a coat to similar standards. Horsehair canvas is also soaked for a few days.

 

I tend to like to shrink my linens and soak them in boiling water.

 

I couldn't, obviously, take pictures of the hand-padded canvas, chest piece, collar, and shoulder pads that are custom made to fit my shoulders.

 

I'd think that approx. 50 hours of work went into the making of this garment, and from adept and experienced coatmakers at that. Working at this pace --

 

h ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8vUoaeHTko

 

The coat -- The pick stitching is actually barely noticeable. It comes out clearly here because I angled the coat so I could capture the details clearly.

 

photo9-1_zpscfb02f70.jpg

 

Close-up of buttonholes and lapel

 

photo8-2_zpsecacef34.jpg

 

Hand-attached collar and flower loop. Look at the way the collar has been hand drawn and stitched to the facing in that XXXX stitch.

 

photo6_zps64824958.jpg

 

Neatly hand padded lapels. Note the desnity of the stitching. Those are 3 3/4 inches lapels so they had to pad it quite throughly. Gives a lovely and amazing roll.

 

photo7-4_zps16f14a5b.jpg

 

Beautiful buttonholes

 

photo5_zps872e6ef5.jpg

 

Sleeve set in by hand, and hand-felled lining. Significant inlays of 3 inches that allow for the garment to be adjusted in accordance to one's lifestyle and weight gain.<br /><br />

 

photo2_zpsd661ce3b.jpg

 

Cuffs with removable buttons

 

photo10_zps246d889c.jpg

 

Lining attached -- please don't mind my eccentricity and predilection for not-so-subtle patterned linings. I see coat linings as a means of expressing myself. This is by the company that makes for JJ Minnis. For sale to the public at approximately 30 GBP/M sans VAT.

 

photo3_zpsd2751082.jpg

 

More lining

 

photo4_zps590dec12.jpg

 

Name, date of order, fabric code etc -- easier to keep track of the order and easier to do repairs when fabric code is prepared, and the order number also helps them trace the order, and provide a better after-care service where coat is sponged and pressed etc.

 

photo1_zpsb50cf873.jpg

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Guest tehliangseng

Hi guys,

 

Was wondering if any of you have Ron of Ron Tailor Made's contact number? 

 

Silly me forgot to back up my contacts when I changed my phone.

 

Thanks!

 

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Hey guys any comments on a friends suit. He just pick this up from AL

 

 

img20130531wa0005.jpg

 

img20130531wa0006.jpg

 

img20130531wa0007.jpg

 

We know the pants are not ideal. But we don't understand the construction of it enough to convey the message to AL, further more he is very persistent in not wanting to alter some things saying "its already nice"

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You have to be even more persistent and insist on an alteration if you feel there is something wrong.

 

Your friend have slight uneven shoulders

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Visited my tailor in Singapore today.

 

Here's EM's navy jacket being made up.

 

Fully padded lapels and with such minute stitches no less. It's commonplace for many Asian tailors to do them with machine, and for those who hand pad them, it is done so very very sparsely.

 

Am surprised this is made here in Singapore, in 2013.

 

photo9-1_zps562d2da9.jpg

 

 

photo2_zps96b9931c.jpg

 

In fact, even Poole has taken the short cut and does it by machine as seen below:

 

Was dissected by Jeffrey, and I saw that it was done as such when I was in the fitting room.

 

4354186934_e8f42b3f49_zpsa9dc9bc1.jpg

 

Also had my fitting for a cream linen coat today.

 

Tailor ripped off the other sleeve because I decided I didn't want padding and he removed it so that I could visalize how I'd look.

Some amendment include: A) lengthening the coat by an inch B) Dropping the waist and buttoning point lower 3) And the usual stuff like pitching the sleeve correctly etc.

 

photo-1_zps0e6fc937.jpg

 

 

photo8-2_zps5d283d8b.jpg

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<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/u8vUoaeHTko" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

boysdontcryy, on 04 Jun 2013 - 5:15 PM, said:

 

Visited my tailor in Singapore today.

 

Here's EM's navy jacket being made up.

 

Fully padded lapels and with such minute stitches no less. It's commonplace for many Asian tailors to do them with machine, and for those who hand pad them, it is done so very very sparsely.

 

Am surprised this is made here in Singapore, in 2013.

 

photo9-1_zps562d2da9.jpg

 

 

photo2_zps96b9931c.jpg

 

In fact, even Poole has taken the short cut and does it by machine as seen below:

 

Was dissected by Jeffrey, and I saw that it was done as such when I was in the fitting room.

 

4354186934_e8f42b3f49_zpsa9dc9bc1.jpg

 

Also had my fitting for a cream linen coat today.

 

Tailor ripped off the other sleeve because I decided I didn't want padding and he removed it so that I could visalize how I'd look.

Some amendment include: A) lengthening the coat by an inch B) Dropping the waist and buttoning point lower 3) And the usual stuff like pitching the sleeve correctly etc.

 

photo-1_zps0e6fc937.jpg

 

 

photo8-2_zps5d283d8b.jpg

residentdandy, on 04 Jun 2013 - 6:15 PM, said:

 

 

 

I'll give him a call to praise him!

REPLY:

 

This guy wasn't your recommendation per se, but we did talk about this guy briefly :)

 

You think I should lengthen the cream coat? Would look better, you think?

 

phot3o_zps70761e9e-1_zps17a6f949.jpg

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From the angles you took the pictures, the length of the cream coat looks just right.

 

FYI gents, the material used for this coat is from the Harrisons Mersolair range that I ordered through the extremely knowledgeable and helpful TS. It is a mohair and linen blend that feels very promising.

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REPLY:

 

This guy wasn't your recommendation per se, but we did talk about this guy briefly :)

 

You think I should lengthen the cream coat? Would look better, you think?

 

phot3o_zps70761e9e-1_zps17a6f949.jpg

 

is that the NAC handicapped toilet? 

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