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kotmj

The suiting thread

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If you want proper working cuffs from AL you have to tell him you want them like shirt cuffs -- completely unbuttonable and rollupable. My first suit had cuffs like kenterong, which I actually found rather charming since you don't see it anywhere else. But then I was so blown away by the obvious quality of my first suit I hadn't the heart to complain about anything.

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well, i did get what i wanted in the end. just that i didn't really like how it was done. and in hindsight, you're right: you won't necessarily open the cuffs and roll them up at any given time.

 

is this picture posted from your hard drive?

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So, now for the trousers.

 

It is fashion nowadays to wear trousers at the hips, like jeans. Cut them any higher and each and every customer will say you make an uncle cut. Traditionally, trousers sit just below the natural waist. Admittedly, this is a very dated look nowadays. The brown line is where I guess the natural waist to be.

 

waistline.jpg

 

I personally have trousers higher than yours but lower than natural waist.

 

Notice the "whisker" pulling on the front of trews near fly. This is a textbook sign that the trews are too tight.

 

Next pic:

terrortrewsback.jpg

 

The advantage to having high rise trews is that you don't look like your trews are about to expose your buttcrack, however attractive a sight that may be.

 

AL needs to take up the trousers at the back and let out the thighs to achieve a clean back of trews (like in my pic above).

 

Would the trews not look infinitely better if they had the silhouette I marked out in a navy line below?

terrortrewsside.jpg

 

However, there is very little acceptance for such drapey trews. Customers clutch the back of their thighs and ask the tailor WTF all that cloth is there for. They are there for the look, my dear, the look.

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Some of you will also observe that people wear sarongs at their natural waists. This is a most natural thing to do since you are most narrow there.

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kotmj, you're quite right. overall, it is still a pretty good suit that i got. and i believe i still owe you some pictures of it.

 

i may have to take back what i said earlier, based on some pictures i took a few hours ago.

 

post-5-0-89411300-1318952549_thumb.jpg

 

post-5-0-79672200-1318952594_thumb.jpg

 

post-5-0-23886600-1318952619_thumb.jpg

 

post-5-0-51266300-1318952642_thumb.jpg

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Thanks again kotmj!I have asked him to raise the back just now.Al agreed that as it was to low,it caused the back of the trousers to bunch.I also pointed out I wanted pants like he was wearing as the drape of his trousers were perfect. For the waist part, your point is noted.I will ask him to adjust accordingly.AL must be getting really tired of seeing me...

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two things come to mind when i look at the pictures i posted: one, AL still didn't get it right even after kotmj pointed out the problems in the suit.

 

OR two, i must've put on some weight in between the time when i went for that last fitting with kotmj and when the suit was finalized. i suppose i had been working out quite a bit at the gym in that period.

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I think AL did do the shoulder slope and balance correction I pointed out. But somehow, the coatmaker did not stretch the side seams enough which causes the puckering at the small of back.

 

The puckering due to short seams and the slightly incorrect curvature of sleeves are the only two problems with the coat. Everything else is pretty much OK. The spotlights accentuate the inevitable ripples in the very thin cloth. What is remarkable is that the shoulder has a very definite line despite being padded only with a single ply of polyester!

 

The trousers have the usual problems endemic of every tailor. Quite unavoidable with slim fits.

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kenterong, to 99% of the masses, your suit looks really good.It fits you nicely and defines your body.Seeing your suit makes me want to make a DB also though i think im too thin to be able to carry off one.

 

Guys, anyone interested to purchase horn buttons and lining from UK?im planning to buy some, ship it to my brother in the UK.He will come back in January.Then you will save money for shipping.

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to be honest, i like how the suit fits. it follows my body quite closely yet still gives me room to move comfortably (i can fold my arms without feeling like the suit would burst). and the shoulders are so soft too.

 

but i can certainly do without all that puckering. pants aren't quite slim because i wanted it to balance with the jacket.

 

will definitely bring it in when i see you, kotmj.

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Their work is consistently excellent, though they show far more deference to the customer than I'm inclined to..

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I think PG's advice about giving the creation process a lot of time is a wise one. It's easy for him to say since he probably has the biggest wardrobe in Asia.

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by the way, think i'll go with the dugdale 8960.

Dugdale sells trimmings as well. Lining, horn buttons, silk buttonhole twist (maybe?). Might as well get them together with the cloth. Ask for the trimmings to be chosen by an experienced person. Get ermazine!

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