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The suiting thread

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It occurred to me Gianni and Francisco (MOP) have similar ways of writing. It is this liberal arts way of writing, along the lines of Jeremy Clarkson of Top Gear. (Gianni was a journalist, like Clarkson.) These people use language to suggest, to hint at, certain sentiments, moods, flavours, and romanticism brought about by a product. It is how you feel when you use a product.

 

The problem is when the product is bought by people who are from technical backgrounds. Lawyers, physicians, engineers, accountants. These people take language literally. Each word has a fixed definition. Language is not to be used loosely.

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A Singaporean who bought a length wrote to me saying he wants to return the cloth because his tailor said it is impossible to make up without crooked checks. I told him to use a less cheap tailor.

First time i heard such a comment for checks. I wonder what is the reason that the tailor gave.

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That particular linen is very shifty dimensionally. A customer with a very mature pattern on file (I think 7th or 8th iteration) ordered one, and the cloth expanded so much during sewing that we had to take in the shoulders 3/4". Each side.

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That particular linen is very shifty dimensionally. A customer with a very mature pattern on file (I think 7th or 8th iteration) ordered one, and the cloth expanded so much during sewing that we had to take in the shoulders 3/4". Each side.

An acquaintance of mine had a similar experience with the shoulders with the fabric.


"In matters of grave importance, style, not sincerity, is the vital thing." - Oscar Wilde

http:/www.instagram.com/residentdandy

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I was informed that the issue of readmission of MOP is not my decision to make and will be discussed at the next CROMPTON general meeting. They're the ones keeping the lights on on this forum.

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so no kerbau-up then. are the technorati moved by this 'emotional' language employed by the likes of journalists like clarkson? if so, are they capable of using their precision tools to express themselves similarly? are they capable of unpacking this loaded, emotional language into its component, precision parts?

 

edit: also, i think i need a jacket with those darts!

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That particular linen is very shifty dimensionally. A customer with a very mature pattern on file (I think 7th or 8th iteration) ordered one, and the cloth expanded so much during sewing that we had to take in the shoulders 3/4". Each side.

 

 

An acquaintance of mine had a similar experience with the shoulders with the fabric.

 

I have always been curious about those linen, especially that weave. Hope I can see them in person one day. 

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I don't think anyone can bridge the gap.

 

Style profanators = those who like to dress a little colourfully

Scammer = honest tradespeople

Overarmoured = relatively deconstructed, with enough firmness for smooth contours

Vintage = vintage-like

Thirsty = for love, because it is scrap fabric

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Phew, it's great to be without MOP's incessant toxicity and stupidity. I can feel the breeze in this forum again.

 

Rubinacci's vaulted workroom in Via Chiaia. The heart of a tailoring institution.

Rubinacci-Tailor-Shop-Upstairs.jpg

 

If I owned the place, I would do everything in my power to provide windows on both sides of the room. Working in a place lit exclusively by lamps and without windows to the outside is depressing, especially since these guys work very long hours.

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Hor hor! So this is how Rubi pants look like! Can you tell if this is pleated or not (at one glance)?

One-of-Three-Cutters-at-Rubinacci.jpg

 

Also, dismayed to see that the seam allowance convention in Naples for pants is different from KL's. This means paper patterns are not interchangeable between these two locations.

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I wonder if this was cut from a decades-old pattern for a longtime customer. Nothing contemporary about the collar/lapel treatment! But my, look at that lapel roll!

A-Rubinacci-Coat-It-looks-like-the-Sleev

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A most penetrating comment:

 

"What amazes me is that, according to the Telegraph, L’Roubi and Lagrange could buy the firm’s assets for little more than 1m GBP. These SR firms look so mighty from afar; how can they be worth so little? Is it because the chief assets of the firm walk out the door every evening?"

 

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/02/interview-roubi-lroubi-huntsman.html

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Phew, it's great to be without MOP's incessant toxicity and stupidity. I can feel the breeze in this forum again.

 

Rubinacci's vaulted workroom in Via Chiaia. The heart of a tailoring institution.

Rubinacci-Tailor-Shop-Upstairs.jpg

 

If I owned the place, I would do everything in my power to provide windows on both sides of the room. Working in a place lit exclusively by lamps and without windows to the outside is depressing, especially since these guys work very long hours.

 

Too depressing. Looks like a underground bunker.

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At least that way you know they are paid well. They have to be, to spend most of their waking hours in that windowless bunker. It never ceases to amaze me the stuff people subject themselves to for money.

 

Lapo Elkann with concave shoulders.

lapo-elkann-con-ferrari-360-2038581_0x41

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Montezemollo to himself: Ah, you useless shit, if your grandfather didn't own the place I wouldn't have to keep you around.

 

Lappo: Please be nice to me!

 

lapo-elkann-luca.jpg

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 Say goodbye to the bad guy, you need people as me. I always say the truth, even when i lie.

 

;)

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ANY

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I was told by a customer today that a friend of his (Malaysian) went to Naples to have a suit made. The price was quite high, about or above Savile Row. I'm thinking it must be Rubi. Took a year from start to delivery.

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Sure it was. When they started after a year, his measures were dated! Paying for brands is that...


ANY

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If the customer was a tourist, then the time taken to finish the suit is partly dependent on how long it took the customer to go back for fittings etc.

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