Jump to content
kotmj

The suiting thread

Recommended Posts

A quick comparison, in Singapore at certain places H. Lesser 8/9ozs NO.313 goes for £50 a metre, that's a markup of about £4 per metre (direct from the mill would be £46).

 

How much would it fetch here Jeremy? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick comparison, in Singapore at certain places H. Lesser 8/9ozs NO.313 goes for £50 a metre, that's a markup of about £4 per metre (direct from the mill would be £46).

 

How much would it fetch here Jeremy? 

 

Eh? One can get H Lesser in Singapore without being a tailor and without shipping it in? Very attractive since you get to avoid shipping fees and GST!

 

Also, replied your PM but no response.


"In matters of grave importance, style, not sincerity, is the vital thing." - Oscar Wilde

http:/www.instagram.com/residentdandy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick comparison, in Singapore at certain places H. Lesser 8/9ozs NO.313 goes for £50 a metre, that's a markup of about £4 per metre (direct from the mill would be £46).

 

How much would it fetch here Jeremy?

 

That's not bad actually. I thought your example would be like 100% mark up or something.

 

Here in Jakarta I know a place that sell VBC Perennial for IDR 2 Million per meter. Now that's what I call crazy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Voidvlex, 

 

£4 is decent, some would say charity. 

 

I was hoping to compare it with how much it goes for in Malaysia. 

 

I am sure Jeremy will be able to enlighten us. 

 

Regards, 

 

EF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GBP50/m would be less than what I get it for at wholesale, after shipping. But then Lesser is seriously overpriced for what it is, and its distribution in this part of the world is inefficient.

 

The business model of a cloth distributor in the ideal case, briefly: It creates a market for the cloth by marketing and distribution. It constantly impinges the consciousness of the relevant groups with the fact that the brand exists, and stands for creativity, luxury, quality, etc. It creates and places marketing collateral in all the right media/venues. It distributes swatch books to tailors/customers. It keeps stock of the cloths for quick and efficient fulfilment (otherwise, the logistics cost would be incurred with each suiting length instead of a containerful of bolts).

 

If done consistently over many decades, the cloth brand becomes a part of the culture it was marketed into. Like Dunhill cigarettes, Fernleaf milk, etc. It becomes so much more than just a cloth -- it truly becomes a brand in the best sense of the word. People naturally gravitate towards it.

 

To reap the rewards of such longsighted investment in the brand, distribution is kept relatively discriminate and prices contain the prevalent retail markups.

 

There is no such cloth distributor in Malaysia. All you have are the rice wholesalers. It's about revenues at all cost, today. Revenues now. Fuck the brand. Tomorrow? It doesn't yet exist. Marketing -- what's that?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I offered Super 180s from Barbera at 120e meter while cost 300 and no one bought.

 

That is mostly the stuff used by Kiton's 6000 euros up suits.

 

A felt dissapointed.


ANY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

GBP50/m would be less than what I get it for at wholesale, after shipping. But then Lesser is seriously overpriced for what it is, and its distribution in this part of the world is inefficient.

 

The business model of a cloth distributor in the ideal case, briefly: It creates a market for the cloth by marketing and distribution. It constantly impinges the consciousness of the relevant groups with the fact that the brand exists, and stands for creativity, luxury, quality, etc. It creates and places marketing collateral in all the right media/venues. It distributes swatch books to tailors/customers. It keeps stock of the cloths for quick and efficient fulfilment (otherwise, the logistics cost would be incurred with each suiting length instead of a containerful of bolts).

 

If done consistently over many decades, the cloth brand becomes a part of the culture it was marketed into. Like Dunhill cigarettes, Fernleaf milk, etc. It becomes so much more than just a cloth -- it truly becomes a brand in the best sense of the word. People naturally gravitate towards it.

 

To reap the rewards of such longsighted investment in the brand, distribution is kept relatively discriminate and prices contain the prevalent retail markups.

 

There is no such cloth distributor in Malaysia. All you have are the rice wholesalers. It's about revenues at all cost, today. Revenues now. Fuck the brand. Tomorrow? It doesn't yet exist. Marketing -- what's that?

Thanks for the reply Jeremy. 

 

I have qualms about ''agents'' but I am all for a distributor. The problem with Harrisons is that they cost a pretty penny and don't posses the glamour associated with Zegna and Dormueil.  Only the aficionados who appreciates the history with have deeper pockets will aggressively pursue them. This is just an example, I am not advocating same. 

 

It's hard to compete with VBC when it goes for RM 80 per metre (at a ''distributor''). Buying a metre of Lessors could get you a whole suiting length! 

 

Merino Bros in Hong Kong is probably one of the bigger agents/distributors. They carry all the books but apart from certain length, they don't carry stock. Too $$$. 

 

Plus those English cloths are so rough compare to Italian ones. Get lah the smoother one!! - I am generalising I know!!

 

 

J, I can't get it at GBP 50/m with shipping either.

 

As you probably know, there's a stock-keeping distro here --but it's also a rice wholesaler.

It's 50GBP before shipping. Shipping will be approximately 42GBP for 15 metres. 

 

The old uncle has all the swatch books with the official price list from Harrisons. You pick one and he will tell you that he will add x amount on top of what Harrisons is charging, usually between 8 to 10%. You pay him the difference and he (or someone) will put an order in online. Audrey sends him a proforma invoice you collect it from his store front (he doesn't do emails) and pay Harrisons direct. 

 

This is preferable as most Agents will try to take a cut from forex on top of the markup. In my opinion, this is extremely bad form on their part. 

 

It gets shipped directly to your home. Uncle doesn't care if you need to pay an excise. 

 

Regards, 

 

EF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can source vbc much cheaper than i can.

 

You know how peanut butter comes in smooth and chunky. There's a market for both.

 

VBC has such a huge range. Shitty shit shit to the very good and world class. 

 

I was trying to be humourous. I wasn't advocating the one over the other. Maybe I ''roll'' with the wrong crowd but it does seem like it in Malaysia. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to know where i can get RM80 VBC please.Would make good everyday pants that I can just throw in the washing machine

 

OMG, OMG, OMG, OMG I now is my time to shine.

 

I can now take the next step as a self-appointed agent!! FUCK YEAH!!!!!

 

Step 1: Please PM me for further details; you proceed to do so. 

Step 2: I tell you it's not easy but somehow I have managed to do so.  Here are the prices, would you like to meet up? 

Step 3: Tell you there is a minimum order but I have an order coming in soon, would you like to wait? Save on postage. 

Step 4: I upload images of the fabrics you bought; and another person contacts me. 

Step 5: Start all over again. 

 

How am I doing so far? I got the formula right yet? 

 

Regards, 

 

EF LAU, The Cloth Baron II 

 

ps: PM to be sent. 

 

Update

pps: The member terrorsquad cannot receive any new messages

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG, OMG, OMG, OMG I now is my time to shine.

 

I can now take the next step as a self-appointed agent!! FUCK YEAH!!!!!

 

Step 1: Please PM me for further details; you proceed to do so.

Step 2: I tell you it's not easy but somehow I have managed to do so. Here are the prices, would you like to meet up?

Step 3: Tell you there is a minimum order but I have an order coming in soon, would you like to wait? Save on postage.

Step 4: I upload images of the fabrics you bought; and another person contacts me.

Step 5: Start all over again.

 

How am I doing so far? I got the formula right yet?

 

Regards,

 

EF LAU, The Cloth Baron II

 

ps: PM to be sent.

 

Update

pps: The member terrorsquad cannot receive any new messages

Pretty much. Just less of that chihuahua-ish excitement. You're a baron remember? ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty much. Just less of that chihuahua-ish excitement. You're a baron remember? ;)

 

Oh yes, a newly appointed one though. Think, orang kaya baru. =)

 

Nabil, let me know if you are still interested. 

 

Regards, 

 

EF LAU

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yes, a newly appointed one though. Think, orang kaya baru. =)

 

Nabil, let me know if you are still interested. 

 

Regards, 

 

EF LAU

 

 

 

*Bows to EF LAU, The Cloth Baron II*

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The very FIRST barons were landed gentry. Then iron and rail magnates. The current batch of barons may not run the largest enterprise nor are they about mere financial muscle, they also makes things happen for the community.

 

Think John Hall of Newcastle, or Chris Haskins from Hull. 

 

If you need help sourcing anything, let me know and I will point you in the right direction. You will deal directly with the vendor, I have no interest of making money off you. 

 

I will not give an impression of giving back to the community, helping our forum friends sources items. I don't give a fuck about helping people.

 

However, I do hate seeing people get swindled, if you want to know where you are able to get suitings straight from the distributors, ask me and I will let you know. 

 

Jeremy, is our very generous benefactor. Thanks for hosting all of us here! 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's 2 prong I suppose. Firstly, I was slack with the follow-up and let it slide when the tailor reasons that a floating canvas should take that long. 

 

Secondly, the tailor has problems communicating. Calls unreturned, messages ignored and emails lost because he had problems with gmail, or Apple (read iPad).

 

You are preaching to the choir about fits. It might or should be at the forefront of each individual's thoughts when choosing a tailor but we sometimes just get caught up with all the marketing bullshit. Well me at least. 

 

Again, not picking on you but closer to home, if one were to browse your brochure they will find nothing about a perfect fit!! (granted there is a tiny section about the process)The reason being, it's just not stimulating enough. Imagine reading something like this, ''Oh yeah baby, that immaculately waist suppressed jacket fits you good, real good''. Move those hips!!!!

 

Instead I found this,

 

 

continue reading here, http://jeremytok.com/home/jeremytok/files/brochure-1.pdf

 

Everything you have stated above points towards experience as a good barometer of a ''fitter's'' quality of work.

 

We are amiable on this. 

 

Regards, 

 

EF LAU

I may have to write a piece on what a person should know about obtaining tailored clothes. Clearly, even longtime readers on these forums do not understand the game.

 

I say nothing about a 'perfect' fit because it's never perfect and only sometimes good. Quality of fit is also purely subjective (meat for some, poison for others). It's like saying you will win a certain competition, say a tennis match. You can never say for sure. You latent ability, how you expressed that ability that day, your competitor's prowess, etc. all play a role.

 

I am not amiable with you on experience. If experience was the first order factor for a great fit, your recent suit should be an absolute hit. After all, there is supposed to be three generations of experience in that cutter. There is a bit of rickshaw pulling in the first generation, etc. but let's ignore that.

 

Rubinacci's former head cutter has ventured out on his own, and on a styleforum thread about him, you see that some fits are lauded, while others are deemed very poor. Same man, very different fits. Why? Mostly because of the customer.

 

There is a well known tailor in Naples who spent his whole life in the trade but could not produce a satisfactory fit for our resident forum bigot retard, not even after alterations. So much experience, such poor results. Why? Because of so many factors: The customer's idea of fit (primarily), the customers body, the cloth, his mental presence that day, etc.

 

Fit is always chancy. Experience tells nothing.

 

Never assume I am amiable with you on anything, especially tailoring. What we can be amiable about is, What I've forgotten about tailoring is more than you ever knew about it. Just to give you an idea, I can identify a coat maker by looking at a buttonhole, and I know how much the cutter pays him per jacket. The knowledge asymmetry is humongous between us.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Never assume I am amiable with you on anything, especially tailoring. What we can be amiable about is, What I've forgotten about tailoring is more than you ever knew about it. Just to give you an idea, I can identify a coat maker by looking at a buttonhole, and I know how much the cutter pays him per jacket. The knowledge asymmetry is humongous between us. 

Oh Jezza, I am sure it is! It astronomical, colossal, cosmical, monumental even Brobdingnagian. 

 

After all, only one person has the self applied post nominal title of Tailor behind our names. You would be an idiot to claim otherwise. 

 

If I agreed on anything, I was being facetious, baiting for a response. We have had hour long debates in your hotel room. I doubt we ever agree on anything. 

 

Master Tailor Tok. The KL tailoring scene in the palms of your hand. 

 

 

Rubinacci's former head cutter has ventured out on his own, and on a styleforum thread about him, you see that some fits are lauded, while others are deemed very poor. Same man, very different fits. Why? Mostly because of the customer.

 

I suppose you were referring to Paone.

 

I am actually happy with the fit of your suit. I am an easy man to dress. VERY easy. 

 

Just fucking disappointed with the finishing. 

 

 

Fit is always chancy. Experience tells nothing.

 

Why bother then? 

 

 

I am not amiable with you on experience. If experience was the first order factor for a great fit, your recent suit should be an absolute hit. After all, there is supposed to be three generations of experience in that cutter. There is a bit of rickshaw pulling in the first generation, etc. but let's ignore that.

 

Bloody absolute hit. BTW, if only we are able to accumulate the knowledge and experience from our forefathers, almost as if by osmosis.

 

3 generations means fuck all.

 

John Hitcock retired last year. Was he well respected because he was simply great? Do I have first hand experience? His son Steven bangs around about it all the time, how his father was this and that. How he went through the same steps. 

 

I dislike it when marketing ( and you are an AMAZING marketer) dictates, they have been in the trade for 6 generations. Means jack all to me. The 5 generations could have done well, what about this one?

 

I digress. 

 

Back to Ah Loke. I picked up the suit today! Fucking amazing! I will post pictures of it soon. 

 

Bar his price, I never had a problem with him. Oh and he is fucking stubborn. 

 

Experience is important, because a 15 year old Ah Loke and a 60 years old Ah Loke will have very different skill sets. 

 

You don't read things on the Internet, order a book from Japan and assume greatness. 

 

 

Mostly because of the customer.

 

You must have mentioned this at least 25 times throughout forum history. But you only cut and fit. Not only do you refuse to, but you are unable to construct an entire suit by yourself. Your sifu agrees. Wait what? He knows my sifu?

 

KL is small. This industry even more so. 

 

If you blame the customer, what good are you. 

 

Then again, as you previously mentioned, this is a forgiving industry.

 

You are always quick to angst when your experience and quality of your products comes into question. 

 

Maybe like Pierre, you will ban me and make fun of my financial status. But then I have ordered 2 suits from you to a tune of RM12k and my family (read uncle) owns half of Bukit Bintang. 

 

I am sure many would have read your forum an decide to engage your services. I am sure happy clients will be posting their wares soon. It's just that they are so far and few between. 

 

Oh btw, have I mentioned how wonderful your marketing is? 

 

Regards, 

 

EF Lau. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×