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kotmj

The suiting thread

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It's a huge loss for the tailors of Paris. If approached, I'm sure any one of them would be happy to make Macron his inauguration suit for free even when uncredited. Instead of showing off the best of French tailoring to a world audience, he instead went down the route he did.

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IMG_20170520_190441.jpg?raw=1

 

There is a phone in the trouser pocket. VBC Super 120's worsted flannel.

 

He asked me if I have a bowtie. I gave him the only one I have.

 

IMG_20170520_190245.jpg?raw=1

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IMG_20170524_182810.jpg?raw=1

 

Drove to Klang today to see the photog in his studio. It was impossible to use WhatsApp to provide "artistic" direction---feelings became raw.

 

The editing went much better when I was there in person---the photog also saw that I was not a gratuitious pain in the arse, but that things go very quickly when the results are within ballpark.

 

On the way to Klang, the phone rang. The caller introduced herself, then asked if I'm still "tailoring". She called to offer a pop up shop to me for four months in BSC. It begins August. Rent is reasonable.

 

From the conversation, I get the feeling the visual merchandising of the pop up shop matters a great deal to them. It should be creative and beautiful. Whether you are ultimately offered the space depends almost entirely on this. They are ambivalent if there is a human being manning the shop or if it's just a showcase.

 

I may have to hire someone to design the physical presence. Since I have precisely zero retail experience, I welcome all thoughts on this.

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Anyway, pretty sure the space is mine. She loved the marketing collateral I sent her.

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Not sure if this has been done before. Entire construction looks like a luggage with real hinges.

 

lNxFBum.jpg

 

Very novel! I have no experience to know how much effort a store of this design would take; I can only imagine quite a bit of work to set up something like this. But if it did work it will be something special that could be a nice attraction in a magazine/online article.

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Some of you may not be that familiar with KL or with BSC. It stands for Bangsar Shopping Center. It's a pretty upmarket retail space in a particularly affluent part of KL. It houses several tailors, most notably Lord's. But WJ&Co too is here; they host P.Johnson and Saint Crispins several times a year.

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BSC also houses Truefitt & Hill. Used to go there until getting a walk-in haircut was near impossible. Burlington Tailor also lives there.

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Maybe you can offer to make them some suits!

I can't go about making such offers without extremely good reason.

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In case anyone didn't know, these three have been published on my fb and Instagram.

 

jeremy%20%2871%20of%20219%29%20LR.jpg?ra

 

jeremy%20%284%20of%20219%29%20LR.jpg?raw

 

jeremy%20%283%20of%20219%29%20LR.jpg?raw

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Star reporter coming 31/5. With a photog. Even I am a bit nervous. It's The Star--- the whole country will be looking.

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https://youtu.be/4VwElW7SbLA

 

I'm watching Zuckerberg's Harvard commencement speech right now in a very nice cafe. It's the first time I've seen him in a suit. It's a fabulous suit. Things can be fabulous, but they're never perfect. His suit jacket has the same problem as the ones I made for the recent photoshoot---the collar doesn't always hug the neck. During the fittings with Dominic I was very aware of the problem and I thought I had corrected for it sufficiently in the pattern, but there was still residual gaping, visible sometimes. I've spent the last couple of months kicking myself over this. I just can't believe I would be defeated by something I could see clearly and fought. Since then, I have incorporated a new procedure in the fitting process to root this out.

 

I'm a bit happy to see I'm not the only one caught by this problem. Even a tailor to a billionaire like Zuckerberg is susceptible.

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4 years ago, Business Insider dissected his suits.

 

http://www.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-in-a-suit-2013-9?IR=T&r=US&IR=T

 

First and foremost, Estreicher, Soriano, and Vora all agree that Zuckerberg has been wearing "fused" suits. A high quality suit, Estreicher pointed out, is put together with full canvas, which is horse hair.
 
Fused suits, on the other hand, are glued together and when that happens, the suit can look boxy and unflattering on the body.
 
Also, when fused suits are dry cleaned too many times the glue expands and can corrupt the fit of the garment, making it wrinkly.
 
The guys also see a few issues with the way Zuckerberg's suits fit his body.
 
"Fit of the jacket is also an obvious issue here," said the Vora and Soriano. "His jacket shoulders extend past his actual shoulders and he looks like he's wearing a rental suit from that terrible suit rental place, or borrowing a suit from a football player friend...It almost gives a the look of a kid-in-a-grown-man's-suit look, like that last scene of the movie 'Big.' Shorten those sleeves to your wrist, and show a little shirt cuff."
 
The shoulders aren't the only common problem with Zuckerberg's jackets either.
 
"To make his suit more fitted," Estreicher added. "I would take in the chest, half Girth (stomach)... measurements."
 
Estreicher also said that in a few pictures, the fabric and buttons on Zuckerberg's suits looked cheap. And regardless of what anything costs, you never want something to look cheap.

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4 years ago, Business Insider dissected his suits.

 

http://www.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-in-a-suit-2013-9?IR=T&r=US&IR=T

 

First and foremost, Estreicher, Soriano, and Vora all agree that Zuckerberg has been wearing "fused" suits. A high quality suit, Estreicher pointed out, is put together with full canvas, which is horse hair.

 

Fused suits, on the other hand, are glued together and when that happens, the suit can look boxy and unflattering on the body.

 

Also, when fused suits are dry cleaned too many times the glue expands and can corrupt the fit of the garment, making it wrinkly.

 

The guys also see a few issues with the way Zuckerberg's suits fit his body.

 

"Fit of the jacket is also an obvious issue here," said the Vora and Soriano. "His jacket shoulders extend past his actual shoulders and he looks like he's wearing a rental suit from that terrible suit rental place, or borrowing a suit from a football player friend...It almost gives a the look of a kid-in-a-grown-man's-suit look, like that last scene of the movie 'Big.' Shorten those sleeves to your wrist, and show a little shirt cuff."

 

The shoulders aren't the only common problem with Zuckerberg's jackets either.

 

"To make his suit more fitted," Estreicher added. "I would take in the chest, half Girth (stomach)... measurements."

 

Estreicher also said that in a few pictures, the fabric and buttons on Zuckerberg's suits looked cheap. And regardless of what anything costs, you never want something to look cheap.

What's certain is Zuckerberg has changed vendors for his suit. The one he wore yesterday at Harvard is very good save for the issue I described.

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Spent a large portion of this evening solving various facebook and instagram problems. Both are ridiculous. I never accepted a fb friend request in all my life...for good reason. I found the whole concept of fb ridiculous. Even as a student I never wanted to have anything to do with facebook. The user interface i find to be pure insanity.The only reason I'm on it now is because of the business.

 

Instagram is worse than fb. Unfortunately it is necessary to engage with both platforms if you run a business. Most of you will not understand what I'm talking about. That's because these platforms are OK if used in idiot/consumer mode, which is how you use it, but when you use them as advertising tools, they are willfully infuriating.

 

I find Google Adsense to be much better. I never found it infuriating. It consistently behaves as expected. Not fb or instagram.

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