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kotmj

The suiting thread

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Back (generally pulling) type exercises needed to strengthen the posterior chain, and help with posture. I'd recommend the deadlift, though proper form needs to be observed in executing this lift.

 

Don't be surprised if you see some of those who are into lifting weights having poor posture themselves. If so, it's a sign they are focusing on the mirror muscles only.

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I almost forgot how much I liked the deadlift. Haven't done it in many years. I think I should set up my home gym to make it possible--its just that I need some thick, dense rubber mats to avoid destroying the wooden parquet. It's my favorite lift.

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I have OTR and MTM jackets which seem to suffer varying degrees of "lapel gape" or "popping", more prominent on the unstructured ones. Pretty sure the jackets aren't too tight, and suspect the problem having something to do with my posture / shoulders or incompatible shape of the armhole. Tailors have told me this can't be altered, but I've read online some had success trying to fix it, but nothing definitive.

 

The cutter and tailor forum talks about lapel dart and tightening the bridle, but too technical for me and probably a fix for jackets still in the making stage. I'm thinking technically it can be solved, but no tailor is willing to do that for you. If so, what does it involve? 

Hope to find some answers here.

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IMG-20171016-WA0004.jpg?raw=1

 

What those in the events management industry call a "backdrop". More specifically, the backdrop for the JTT booth at the Intermark. To be pasted over with logo and edifying pictures of the wares.

 

IMG-20171016-WA0003.jpg?raw=1

 

The part circled green is the JTT portion. The other exhibitors are Voon Siew Gallery, Eumayco Jewellery, Kate Mosella custom shoes, Hilton DoubleTree.

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More interested in being discovered by those work in that area and walk over to Intermark for lunch. There is a footbridge from Ampang Park directly to Intermark and when you enter the mall from this level, there is a satellite display of one suit jacket + gown. The main display is of course at concourse level right at the entrance next to Dome Cafe.

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I have OTR and MTM jackets which seem to suffer varying degrees of "lapel gape" or "popping", more prominent on the unstructured ones. Pretty sure the jackets aren't too tight, and suspect the problem having something to do with my posture / shoulders or incompatible shape of the armhole. Tailors have told me this can't be altered, but I've read online some had success trying to fix it, but nothing definitive.

 

The cutter and tailor forum talks about lapel dart and tightening the bridle, but too technical for me and probably a fix for jackets still in the making stage. I'm thinking technically it can be solved, but no tailor is willing to do that for you. If so, what does it involve? 

Hope to find some answers here.

A gaping lapel is a very common problem even in bespoke suits. It's common because nearly anything can cause it to gape. It's default state is to gape. The tailor intervenes to remove the gaping.

 

1. Neck point might be too far away from the neck

2. Front shoulder slope is wrong

3. The front edges are too far back--front edge extension needed

4. The buttoning point is too low

5. The wearer is too barrel-chested--gorge dart needed

6. Back neck too high up

7. Front vertical balance too long

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One way to gather more information about the behavior of the jacket is to unbutton it. Does the lapel still gape? How are the stripes/checks oriented when the fronts are unbuttoned? Etc.

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I got invited this morning by email to a most unlikely event. I was still lying in bed, unwilling to get up when the email came in. I had to make sure I was really awake, that it wasn't a dream because the title was surreal.

 

I was told that the organizer, someone who approached me earlier in the year to be featured on his wedding portal, is inviting me to a coaching session titled "Dynamics Of Collaboration Amongst Competition".

 

Isn't collaborating with the competition akin to negotiating with terrorists who had just taken a big group of hostages? I thought the competition was put by God on Earth so you get to kill them. Like deer for a hunter.

 

Has Malaysian businesspeople now become as gentrified as the SGporeans? Where even the triads are polite and will issue receipt when you pay protection money.

 

It's to take place in a hotel. I don't think I'm attending. I need all the leisure time I can find because I have so little of it.

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Maybe they are approaching the topic from the POV that competitors are unconsciously helping each other out by their individual promotional efforts? In their drive to expand their individual market share, each competitor is in fact helping the pie to grow bigger for everyone?

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Textbook concepts don't always manifest in real life. Like, when you see a mosquito, you have to kill it because they spread diseases and are a nuisance. Likewise with competition. Besides, I am not interested in growing the pie for the mutual benefit of everyone. I want a monopoly. It's for the sake of customers! With a monopoly, I would have the scale of adequately serve customers.

 

Besides! On which side would you err? A vibrant and multitudinous competition, or a dead competition?

 

The last two days have been unusually restful. Did little on Tuesday except send off some parcels and see a lady customer. I really didn't have the energy to do both, but had no choice. Yesterday, I did nothing. Vegitated at home. Felt so good to be doing nothing.

 

But today, sigh, had to do some heavy lifting. Having a display jacket made for the Intermark fair. It will be a Laksamana.

DSC05510.jpg?raw=1

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Today and tomorrow, there is a tailoring association convention/competition in KL. This is for Malaysian tailors---there are regularly-scheduled conventions for Asian tailors, and I think also for tailors the world over. Last week, I was given the registration forms to fill out so I could attend---but I told the person who gave them to me I don't think I will go because I am exhausted. So yeah, I'm not going. I'm trying to restrict my activities to the bare minimum. I've been doing too many things over too many years. I think, over the last six years, I've compressed 12 years worth of work into it.

 

This morning, the cloth distributor asked me if I would be there. I said I won't. Gave him the reason. I can see he couldn't believe/understand.

 

Also, I've been trying to retard the number of suits sold especially to new customers. For instance, the lady customer I saw a few days ago: I need a "plus size" lady customer as bad as I need a hole in my head. So I sort of overlooked her email. Which did not deter her, because she whatsapped me. I overlooked that too, but my conscience got the better of me because I know plus sized females have it a bit harder than others. So a couple days later, in a moment of misguided magnanimity, I replied, signalling a readiness to engage. Boom! she was in the shop. Can't even say no.

 

And this Tuesday somebody will be in the shop, and on Friday another guy will be in the shop, and on Saturday another guy. That's like one suit every 1.5 weekdays. I have to retard the rate at which I sell the stuff.

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