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kotmj

The suiting thread

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the 8952 is a beautiful shade, i think. quite distinctive. i was kind of looking for that shade for my DB actually, but ALT doesn't have an affordable cloth with that color (my wife likes to call it the obama blue, because she saw a picture of him wearing a suit of that rather bright blue). so i settled with his house kid mohair cloth, which also has a brighter shade of blue than the usual navy.

 

kotmj, i'm going to have to confess to my ignorance on the trimmings. and i can't seem to find them on the dugdale website (apart from the lining).

 

oh yes, would 4.5 meters be enough for a suit with extra pants? seems like the bill will be hefty enough on just the cloth alone: extra gbp25 to be paid for tax!

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When i ordered, i didnt get charged any VAT. If find that a bit funny you got charged VAT when you changed the address. Maybe you can give Caroline a call to sort it out with her.

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The 8952 appears to me to be recognizably blue. With a navy, people do not see it as blue. It is a "dark" suit for laypeople. But a French blue is perceived as blue.

 

What I would love is an air force/RAF blue with obvious mottling:

 

 

WAYWN_1-21-10003.jpg

 

(Slewfoot's pic)

 

Here's something at GBP 53/m (Cape Breeze).

F1933.png

 

Anyway, pics of the NFW covers

Dugdale_New_Fine_Worsted001.jpg

 

Dugdale_New_Fine_Worsted002.jpg

 

 

Trimmings are everything in a suit that is not the garment fabric. This includes body canvas, lining, buttons, collar felt, collar linen, edge tape, etc.

 

I think I should disclose that the current understanding is that my sifu will be making kenterong's suit and I get to be instructed by the sifu with kenterong as the example!

 

kenterong, I think 4.3 m will do, but tell me how tall you are and I will ask tomorrow!

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kotmj, thanks for the explanation on trimmings. as much as i would like to be able to fully bespeak my suit, i cannot say i am knowledgeable enough to do so... yet! placing an order for the garment fabric only is already giving me quite a bit of worry, what more the trimmings.

 

my height is 1.73m, so if i can do with less than 4.3m of fabric, i'd appreciate any savings i can get.

 

by the way, i forgot to mention that i saw a totally unlined jacket at iris last week. it looked amazing.

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If you can measure your chest girth the sifu can give an even better estimate. A tape measure, under the armpits around the most prominent part of the chest and across the shoulder blades at the back. Basically, the widest measurement.

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Wow, the grey cloth is indeed very nice.in your opinion kotmj, should I stick with dugdales or should I give the cloth above a try?the grey cloth looks really good value for money.

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These are also nice cloths

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...731489480665168

 

$(KGrHqYOKioE5ezELRDtBObgz3qgyQ~~60_12.JPG

 

 

 

For the oil oligarchs out there (at GBP 60/m)

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item519b563d9a

 

$(KGrHqZ,!jYE5,i+d)s-BO,M2BTyK!~~60_12.JPG

 

hmmmmm the two-tone thing looks like it might be interesting but i think it can also be a bit too flashy for formal wear, perhaps.

 

will try and see if there's a tape measure at home to measure my chest girth.

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Wow, the grey cloth is indeed very nice.in your opinion kotmj, should I stick with dugdales or should I give the cloth above a try?the grey cloth looks really good value for money.

Wish I could tell, but I only know as much about these cloths as you do. Kid mohair is generally an expensive cloth, especially at the high percentage here (60%).

 

That shade of grey is more for daytime occasions.

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guys, im still having trouble to post the pics.Maybe its just my computer.

 

Anyway, pics of my third fitting. AL still needs to work on the sleeves but its getting close. For some reason, he made the sleeves slimmer but i told him to loosen it up a bit as it was becoming restrictive. Kotmj, i believe AL still needs to work on the sleeve pitch and the was he cuts it as i still see bumps at my elbows, is this correct?The back looks clean and the front looks ok. Any other comments guys?

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/269273/my-bespoked-suit-in-malaysia/15

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guys, im still having trouble to post the pics.Maybe its just my computer.

 

maybe you should try the 'more options' button when replying. then choose to attach file.

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Terrorsquad, the latest iteration of the baste fitting looks much improved. The back is not yet completely clean. The side seams need to be stretched strongly to remove the puckering. AL should not forget to straighten the curvature of the sleeves. He has merely rotated them.

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Yup,i mentioned that to him.we did the dummy test again,and he almost got it right.just a bit more.i told him to straighten the sleeves some more as i noticed there was a bump on the elbows, a sign that it still needs straightening.im sure AL almost blew it when i suggested a 4th fitting.he wants to finish it immediately.he kept insisting that everything would look ok once the suit is pressed and the lining is inserted.

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