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kotmj

The suiting thread

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I told the composer, whose studio is in a separate tower in the same development as JT, that I may be moving into a retail unit in Empire Damansara. He was excited by this. He told me he is thinking of moving his studio to Mont Kiara, in a retail unit. I asked why a studio that composes music would need a retail presence. He said that it is necessary to make a good impression on the customer, in his case, film producers. I said something about how I thought it's all about the music, and that they should listen to it blindfolded the way musicians are auditioned. He had me understand that film producers are extremely human, and being human, are impressionable. 

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New bespoke jacket (JT 3.0) in Dugdale tropical worsted, after being worn and tortured on back to back 13 hour and 11 hour flights to South America. 

Pockets stuffed with passport, e reader, wallet, mobile, etc. 

ca74a1dca663ed20a0162ace6318e23be0cbf53c

 

63982935aaa5416bcfcfadd239505d5cc1a7087e

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Very nice! What's the weight of the cloth?

 

I find jackets (in any form) to be a must during flights. It's uncomfortably cold for me in a plane.

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DSC03591.JPG?raw=1

3-piece in Standeven Carnival. The shirt is from Lord's. The jacket is quite complete, the vest is nearly but not entirely complete. The trousers are in basted stage.

I'll be shortening the jacket sleeves a little.

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20 hours ago, Loh said:

Very nice! What's the weight of the cloth?

 

I find jackets (in any form) to be a must during flights. It's uncomfortably cold for me in a plane.

I believe 10oz. 

I even carry a knit to have extra cosiness when required. 

 

 

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IMG_20191020_155331.jpg?raw=1

Lunch with my employees. 

IMG_20191020_154715.jpg?raw=1Employee #2 and I went for another. Employee #1 had to drive us back to the shop, so we only allowed her one beer.

 

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On 10/19/2019 at 1:57 PM, "6" said:

New bespoke jacket (JT 3.0) in Dugdale tropical worsted, after being worn and tortured on back to back 13 hour and 11 hour flights to South America. 

Pockets stuffed with passport, e reader, wallet, mobile, etc. 

ca74a1dca663ed20a0162ace6318e23be0cbf53c

 

63982935aaa5416bcfcfadd239505d5cc1a7087e

I may have to rotate those sleeves

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So, I won't be moving to Empire Damansara. We were having lunch there today, when an employee asked if I will provide an allowance for season parking there. I never thought about the cost of parking. I enquired, and found that it is RM120/month per car. Since there are currently three, and beginning next month four of us, that's RM480/month in parking costs alone.

Instead, we will move to a 1300 sf unit on the 15th floor. Parking, as usual, is free. I also needn't spend on tiling the floor, or installing two cassette unit ACs, or repainting the walls, or in signage. I was expecting to spend rm15k on these. 

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350563.jpeg?raw=1

Holy moly, is that a beautiful suit on that Azerbaijani kleptocrat taikor. I wonder which top tailor he flew by private jet to Baku to fit him and his robber baron friends. I bet he has a collection of Richard Mille and Patek. 

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https://www.occrp.org/en/azerbaijanilaundromat/azerbaijani-regime-insider-brings-millions-to-viennas-golden-quarter

I don't know anything about Azerbaijan, but when I see a suit like that, I know he spent a lot of money on it. A suit like that does not happen by happy circumstance; you don't win the Wimbledon by accident. It requires unusual talent, which as usual comes at a price. I did some reading, and learn that Azerbaijan is extremely corrupt. The Azerbaijani ruling class has a taste for Kiton. 

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A disingenuous little fuck who has no anchorage in the noble human values, and who instead, like Najib, Zahid & Co, will do anything and say anything to their own advantage. The concept of an objective truth is absent entirely. Also no sense of shame. 

The only thing they are stopped by is overwhelming force. 

Syed Sadid Alyahya, you dumb little fuck, if you think this is bad, wait till I get my post about you on the first page of Google results when people search your name. I will make you unemployable. 

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Coatmaker D called yesterday. He asked me how I'm doing (business-wise). I know why he called, so I guardedly said I'm doing fine. In reality, in the 10 months of this year, we sold as much as the whole of last year. 

He said he's not doing so well. Do I have work for him? I said, not really. I have no work for him. 

He tried to get me into conversation to loosen me up a bit, but I was quite curt. I fired him a while back. There is no coming back to the JT fold because I do not fire people for specific incidences. I fire people because they fundamentally cannot perform at the level I need them to. 

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IMG_20191025_174524.jpg?raw=1

This is the customer who brought in the Savile Row suit I photographed a while back. I initially cut him KL trousers. KL trousers are roomier than Singapore trousers, but are absolutely skin clinging compared to SR trouses. 

The customer was shocked at how tight they are, and made all kinds of noises about wanting something closer to his SR trousers. I obliged; you see the results above. I'm surprised at how well they turned out myself. 

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19 hours ago, kotmj said:

A disingenuous little fuck who has no anchorage in the noble human values, and who instead, like Najib, Zahid & Co, will do anything and say anything to their own advantage. The concept of an objective truth is absent entirely. Also no sense of shame. 

The only thing they are stopped by is overwhelming force. 

Syed Sadid Alyahya, you dumb little fuck, if you think this is bad, wait till I get my post about you on the first page of Google results when people search your name. I will make you unemployable. 

I don't suppose you could divulge the details of said encounter? 

 

I tried googling him - nothing of note, so far (what did I expect? he's 21). One (1) Youtube subscriber. An IIUM graduate with a degree in human sciences. Ho-hum.

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I'll likely explain the sequence of events some day, but it depends on what this idiotic 21 yo does in the coming days and weeks. He's so lacking in intelligence, I wouldn't be surprised if he does something he thinks is smart, but which would end up mangling him for a very long time. His is a case of stupidity + a lack of grounding in morality. 

Unrelated to that, I was listening to a discussion among some independent watchmakers, and one said something about how you need to find watchmakers who are "willing to do production". Apparently, high caliber watchmakers want to do development, not production. Production is drudgery, doing the same thing repeatedly so that watches go out the door. You're essentially a factory worker in production. 

I wonder if my current employees see their contribution in development or in production. When hiring young people, how does one tell if they are development or production people? 

One way to resolve this is to combine development and production. In other words, there isn't a group of people who mindlessly produce an unchanging product. The people who manufacture the product are also the developers, and we have a list of features we want to develop in the product as we make them. But one rarely sees such an arrangement. Maybe because it doesn't work. You see it in the independent watchmakers; the guy who designed the watch is also the guy who assembled it. But when they grow a bit larger, the people who design and the people who make are separate. 

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When I came in to the shop just now, I inspected a pattern that Employee #1 edited. I told her to make two notches for the neckpoints; one for the right and another for the left neckpoints, since they are different, in this case. I gave some other instructions. When she showed me the pattern, I saw only one notch for the neckpoint. The other neckpoint was indicated only with a pencil marking. Unbelievable. I was explicit about having "two notches". If the coatmaker goes only by the notch, I will have a case of a collar that is gaping on one side.

Two weeks ago, I recorded a strongly worded message on whatsapp to Employee #2 about showing me every damned thing that he does, before it goes on to the next stage. He has the habit of doing something, then pushing it to the next stage without me inspecting it. These guys make 6 mistakes before lunch. The only person stopping these mistakes is me. He drafted a jeans pattern this morning, and I saw that he was already about to cut the muslin. I asked him what he's doing? He said sewing jeans. But he never showed me the jeans pattern he drafted. Why not? Was I not clear enough in my whatsapp reprimand?

I inspected the jeans pattern, and immediately found two major errors.

These guys are either just humans, or they are idiots.

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IMG_20191101_163629.jpg?raw=1

Bought a sewing machine today. It's used, but in very, very good condition. I bought it partly in anticipation of a future need, and partly due to the very good price. I currently have three such functionally identical machines in the shop. One (a Juki DDL 5550-6, made in Japan) was equipped in such a way that it can sew very thick fabrics. But, once so equipped, it can only sew thick fabrics. I use it for sewing jeans. The other (the Pfaff 563, made in Germany) is for light fabrics. I may equip it to sew very specific things in the future. 

This Juki DDL 8700-7 (made in China) will be the general purpose machine. Basically, you want a very advanced, comfortable machine for the bulk of your sewing. The other special purpose machines are used less frequently, so can be vintage, even romantic. 

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We're all in Ipoh today. As I type this, the Golden Finger competition is underway. The last two contestants in the clip above is Employee #1 & #2 respectively. 

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