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The suiting thread

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During due diligence they will realise JT's high end trousermaking operation comprises 20% of me and one 21yo intern. 

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Me trying on my "Ambrosi" style trousers. It's 90%complete. The huge amount of inlays at the bottom is because it's meant to have cuffs. 

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I've not met a coatmaker who doesn't use a slip stitch to attach the sleeve lining to the bodice lining. This alone shows the level of retardation in the industry. 

A slip stitch is a weak stitch. Once broken at one spot, the entire seam unravels. One of the commonest problems with jackets is this particular seam unravelling. 

Years ago, I told my coatmaker (since fired) that he is to use a backstitch for that seam. I explained the rationale. A backstitch does not unravel when broken at one spot. 

I don't think he actually did.

I just told an employee to use a backstitch for that seam. I explained the rationale. 

But, I lack confidence it will be adhered to. The level of retardation in most humans is very severe. They appear subhuman to me. 

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Gratuitously elaborate cuffs. My aim is to exceed Ambrosi by inventing an even more gratuitously elaborate cuff, twice the number of buttons for fastening the trousers, an even more dexterity-demanding way of buttoning the fly, and at least twice the number of bartacks sprinkled throughout the trousers. 

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I'm also wondering how on earth one changes the length of these trousers. It would take 2 hours to change the length, vs the 20 minutes of regular, rationally-constructed ones. 

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Sold a 2-piece fully canvassed suit and two jeans to a 50-something year old government school teacher. Female! 

I'm thinking if JT and Sava were two separate entities with their own spaces, such cross-selling would not be possible. 

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14 hours ago, takashi said:

Genius idea

Thought so myself when the idea came to me. The intern just made the second iteration yesterday; I'm not happy with the execution. I think I'll get my male employee to make the third version. 

I received an email informing me that JT is featured in one of Carilocal's "best of" lists. It's a permanent listing. 

https://carilocal-dot-yamm-track.appspot.com/Redirect?ukey=1PuwtcCBf5CArg9vq5vjPrgCUSKqM6xIQ0Wn1W6mVWjA-1879204578&key=YAMMID-93555052&link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.carilocal.com%2Flist%2Fbest-mens-tailoring-shops-in-kl-selangor

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Suit in Officine Paladino. Shirt in Albiate chambray, with a one-piece buttondown collar. 

Despite all the activity in the jeans division, still the best suit makers. 

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If you would watch the video above, you see the spring loaded bracelet of the Tudor Pelagos. It gives the bracelet elasticity. 

Now, look at what arrived today.

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It's the hook portion of a trouser hook-and-bar set. Like the Tudor Pelagos, it is spring loaded. It allows up to a 0.75" expansion of the trouser waistband. Over the course of a day, as your waist size changes, the waistband changes with you. 

Now Ambrosi really have to beg me to allow them to buy JT. 

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I see that you always developing. You dont want to be comfortable. 

I find that the idea above is genius and very practical. 

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I want to be comfortable, but I also have competitors who need vanquishing. 

My landlady, who is in her 70s and a wealthy lawyer with a house on Bukit Tunku, refused to offer any rent discount. At all. She's the socialite sort; Rafidah Aziz attended her 70th birthday, which was covered by Malaysian Tatler. She was extremely unpleasant to deal with. 

I do not identify with people like that. Not much to admire there. 

I have decided to leave Empire City once the rental agreement expires end of this year. 

My space in Empire City has 3 major problems. Everybody complains it is difficult to find, with a convoluted entry. Some people tell me it looks like a condo (even though it's a SOHO, which is why we're even allowed to do business there). Lastly, the largest unit is only 1300 sqft.

On the last point: We're space constrained. I moved from a 950 sqft unit to the current 1300 sqft unit and operations really improved. It allowed me to go from one Pfaff sewing machine to the current 12 machines, and from one employee to the current 2 employees + 1 intern. The move made jeans possible.

But now, I want to make trousers and jackets entirely on premise, but there is no longer any space for the people, the machines, and for storage. 

Today, I checked out a shop office. 

It has quite a number of windows, letting in a lot of natural light. It is supposed to be very cheap (RM1.00/sqft) but this needs to be confirmed. It's at Parklane Commercial Hub Kelana Jaya. Its right beside the LDP, near St. Ignatious Church. 

This unit will satisfy no retail ambitions. I don't think I am temperamentally suited to retail. JT will remain a workshop. Like Igarashi Trousers, which barely has any space for a customer to stand, much less does it have a showroom. 

https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE4MDM3MTA4OTE1MjQ2ODg3?igshid=jwdc6qgp2lg9&story_media_id=2236098943545281497_1418258733

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