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kotmj

The suiting thread

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Cotton trousers going through the finishing process. It will soon receive the special side adjusters which are one-of-a-kind in the world, and in human history. 

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Can't wait for this piece to go through finishing where it emerges with buttons, buttonholes, and sharply pressed. Obviously, I will take an official pic of it for IG. 

I would love to have such a jacket for myself, but can't afford. Maybe one day. 

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Bar jacket. The customer wanted this fused, but I'm upgrading him to fully canvassed as an opportunity for my staff to practise coatmaking.

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We can't post such pictures to IG anymore. It has become so competitive there, with everybody posting perfect pictures of perfect jackets. 

So, I post it here. The imperfection, the disorganisation and the chaos of real, unedited, uncurated life

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No, this jacket has not progressed one bit, but I was curious how photogenic it is so I threw it over the one-piece BD shirt I was photographing. 

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After more than a year of employment, Employee #2 has no idea where the suit covers are stored. Every time a customer comes to collect, I retrieve suit covers from a drawer. It's the only place suit covers are stored. Even some customers know where the suit covers are stored. 

I have, of course, long noticed his inattentiveness. 

Tomorrow, I will present him with two options. Either I terminate his employment and he leaves in 2 months, or beginning next month he will be paid piecework as a sewing tailor. Mostly, he will be sewing buttonholes. It's the only thing he can do without causing me too much worry. 

I am prepared if he chooses to leave. I have a backup: the Malay boy who came to interview a few weeks ago. I sent him my list of prices for piecework, and surprisingly to me, he liked what he saw. He wants the job.

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I considered for a moment if I should phrase the question this way, but I thought, who cares. "How's business?" I asked a heart surgeon. 

The business of healthcare. Much lucrative. 

He had no problem with the question and no hesitation in answering. 

"Picking up," he said. "August was good." 

I asked if there were fewer patients in earlier months, and he says, yes, remarkably, people simply weren't coming to the hospital. 

Then where do they go, I asked. We don't know, but we think they're dying at home, he said. 

We then talked about the no. 1 killer of people: clogged arteries. I learn that physicians like himself have had to relearn the causes of clogged arteries, and that nobody actually is certain what causes it. We used to think we know, he said, but it keeps changing. We now think it's probably due to insulin resistance, he said. 

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I shot this video with my phone to WhatsApp to the coatmaker (who works from his home). It is to show him a sleeve that was mounted by an employee. I personally think it was mounted very successfully, and much better than commonly seen. 

One of the ideals of coatmaking is an ample, you could even say fat, upper sleeve. There is a deep fold on the front of the upper sleeve, and at the rear, the sleeve protrudes out, displaying much volume. 

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This is not a new ideal, nor is it a local one. It has been around forever, and is universal geographically. 

Mounting sleeves is widely seen as the most difficult aspect of tailoring. 

There seems to be 3 elements in creating such a sleeve. All 3 must be present to have a fat, sculptural upper sleeve. 

One is the shape of the sleeve crown, i.e. how the sleeve was cut. Two is how the ease in the sleehead was distributed around the armhole. Thirdly is the construction of the sleevehead wadding. 

BTW, one of my employees is making a detachable wingtip collar, the sort solicitors would wear to court. I left the shop early today when it was half made and can't wait to see the final product tomorrow. 

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I had dinner just now with the Malay boy in Melawati Mall. I explained to him the remuneration system that is a combination of piecework and hourly pay. He loved it. I think it is appreciably more than what he's currently making. 

I told him he starts next month, and that I'll try to draft the Letter of Employment this weekend.

Over a coffee after dinner, I asked him: What do Robert Loh and Kenny Loh do the whole day? (This is the father and son who manage Lord's together with Mdm Loh.) 

They measure customers and make paper cuts, he said. 

This blew my mind. Kenny drafts paper patterns? I asked. 

Yeah, the whole day. With the father, he said. 

I learn that the Malay boy has been altering clothes since he was 18. He's now 28. Married with one child. 

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Dear Mr Tok,

 
We refer to the above matter which came up for Decision yesterday before the High Court Judge YA Dato' Ahmad Bin Bache. 
 
We are pleased to inform that after perusing our affidavits, written submissions and hearing our Mr JK LIM's oral submissions during the Hearing on 2.9.2020, the learned High Court Judge agreed that we have fulfilled the necessary requirements of granting an Order for Discovery. His lordship also finds that our application is sensible and practical. As such, it ought to be allowed to assist you in obtaining the necessary information for fair disposal of the matter. 
 
His lordship has allowed our prayer in (a)(i) of our originating summons, i.e. for the defendant to provide you the full name, identity card number, address and email address of the defendant's customer who is currently using and had previously used the number "+60 13-992 6263".  In respect of item (a)(ii) in our prayer, his lordship has allowed the same with a slight variation by limiting the defendant to only supply information related to and/or information of the user during the period where the alleged defamatory statements were made. 
 
His lordship also expressed that in coming to this decision, he has to weigh and balance the interest of both parties between the need of you obtaining the necessary information and the commercial interest of the defendant in refraining from divulging information of it's customers who are not related to the intended proceedings. In view of the same, his lordship has not awarded cost for this application. Further, his lordship has ordered the defendant to comply with the Order in good faith in ensuring that the relevant information sought is supplied to you.  
 
We will do the needful in drafting and filing a draft Order in Court. Thank you. 

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The trousers are actually way too big for the mannequin, but I made do. 

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These are really just our usual standard construction with hand finishing instead of machine stitching. Can't make the truly artisanal stuff yet due to non-ideal staffing. (But wait till I find the right people. Then Ambrosi will tumbang.) 

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The buttonholes were hand sewn because I just didn't want to change the thread on the buttonhole machine. 

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The customer of the above suit trousers came to collect. I've known him for 7 years. Made him countless items. 

There are all these threads you've not removed, he told me, pointing to the pick stitching along the fly. I can see he was disturbed by all the hand stitches. He thought he was familiar with trousers. But not with all these threads showing. 

I explained to him that's how our trousers are now. 

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