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kotmj

The suiting thread

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I just figured out who Prof Robert Langdon was modelled after. He's an avatar for his creator, Dan Brown. 

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Very ivy league. 

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My coatmaker is also very attracted to the cloth. I think it's the 3rd jacket we made in the Superbio, and even the first time around he told me how nice the cloth it. This time around, he asked me how he can get some for himself. 

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Very interesting, going by this diagram.

  • Every 0.5 μm = +10 to the Super number.

So VBC 21 superbio = 21μm = Super 55s?

Can't find info on polywool, would assume Superbio's characteristics is closer to it

 

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The 21 micron designation seems to be a cheeky, contrarian naming by VBC to counter the Supers war waged by the likes of Zegna with their "14 milmil". Parisian Gentleman has a writeup:

https://www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/21-micron-a-campaign-by-vitale-barberis-canonico

Not very enlightening, that writeup. Jacomet does not approach writing about tailoring the way technicians would, but does so in a romantic, liberal-arts sort of way. I find Crompton to be more exact and factual.

If you haven't felt the Superbio 21 micron range, just imagine a soft and refined cloth that has great body and density, but is not cardboardy or carpet-like. it is flowing.

Tomorrow is the last day of freedom for many in KL before the total lockdown. I was wondering if I should perhaps be locked down in PJ instead of being in Bukit Tinggi. But nah, I just cannot live in PJ. Besides, Bukit Tinggi being in Pahang is subject to CMCO not MCO, this means much more freedom for me. 

I am much better prepared for this MCO than the previous one. I have long transferred my PC from the shop to my house. I also have two hifi setups in my house this time instead of getting sound through old earphones of mediocre quality or through bluetooth speakers (which are also lousy). If you're not into hifi, I highly recommend you try it out. It's magic. I listen to youtube through hifi systems! 

Tomorrow, I shall move all my coffee-making equipment from the shop to my house. The previous MCO I had to drink pre-ground coffee by Starbucks (Vienna roast) sold at Speedmart 99 because my grinder and even aeropress were in the shop. It was as grim as it sounds. This time around, I will be at home in glorious Bukit Tinggi with Belantara beans and a Eureka grinder.

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Keep your spirits up during the lockdown gents! 

@Jeremy- Wow the world of hifi can easily exceed prices of sky dwellers / pateks. Have you gone to gold wire yet? 

During the 4-5 month lockdown in Victoria around July last year, I also installed a basic and modest 5.1 system with faux Dolby Atmos 7.1 capability (my front has some upward angled drivers, but I dont have any ceiling speakers).

I’m thoroughly enjoyjng listening to music almost every evening. I’m also rewatching my favourite films just to experience them again with a competent sound system. I love sci-fi, which is super enjoyable to watch in surround. Bladerunner, Tron Legacy, Alita, Star Wars. 
 

LOtR is also a great watch with proper sound (Balrog scene!). 

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My banana plugs are red diamond studded for the +ve and black diamond studded for the -ve.

I never thought I'd enjoy hifi so much. Headphones simply aren't the same. There seems to be a threshold for performance when something goes from serviceable to magic.

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Swelled edges. It has been difficult to implement this feature with previous coatmakers because of their cognitive limitations. I realise now that dumb people, when confronted with information they do not understand, equate the new with something they already know. Ah, they think to themselves, I have already done this many times. Except they haven't. They don't dig for confirmation that they have in fact understood you because that requires too much mental activity. What if they discover that they haven't, in fact, understood you? That means they have to learn something new. And nothing is more work than that for dumb people. Getting them to learn anything new is so ardous.

I thought it is possible, over time, to help them overcome their limitations. Now that I'm older, I have found a better way: I just fire them and find a smarter replacement. I overcome their limitation by being more sophisticated at finding their replacements.

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Even with my current coatmaker, who is the smartest I've worked with, I have to be very careful to manage his mind when communicating a new technique. He tends to equate it with something he already knows. I have to first shock him into a state where he realises he doesn't, in fact, know. Now is the time to explore something new.

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Learning and adopting something new is much easier when the person knows he doesn't know. This is how the Malay boy managed to learn to make such world-class buttonholes.

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Dumb people also completely underestimate what smart people can do. For instance, Employee #1 resigned in a recession thinking that I would feel vulnerable with so much know-how leaving, and would be forced to make her a better offer to keep her. Unfortunately for her, the know-how has always been on my side. I can take a complete newbie and bring him up to serviceable levels in a few months. I have developed the recruiting know-how to get the right people, and a certain way of training that makes them learn quickly.

Resigning in a recession is also something only dumb people would think of doing. Such poor strategists.

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Very nice. JT empire strengthens. 
 

Hifi music streaming services like Tidal are another avenue of getting more enjoyment out of a capable hifi setup. 
 

 

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Yes, one keeps hearing of Tidal in this hifi milieu. I'm currently streaming via Bluetooth to a variety of amplifiers and receivers through Logitech Bluetooth Audio adapters. It works really well. An upgrade to wireless streaming would be the next step (I suppose). The RM70 Bluetooth dongle brings any old amp into the modern age.

The interest in hifi came about when I wanted to upgrade the Mi Bluetooth speaker that I use in the shop for casual Spotify listening. It adds some ambiance while we work. I looked at the Sonys, which have all a very questionable styling. I looked at the Marshalls---much more to my taste! After a while of exploring Bluetooth speaker options, a realisation dawned in: They are all in mono! That's when I set my sights higher...and saw the Sonus Fabers and ProAcs. Which I currently cannot afford/justify. But very happy with my Missions and Dalis. Maybe I'll try a Wharfedale and an Elac someday.

I even bought an enormous 30 kg active subwoofer. It was listed on FB marketplace. I went to pick it up---the seller is the CEO of a business consulting firm that some of you may have heard of. Jajaja. He imported it from Denmark, that subwoofer.

I was thinking I would not be able to cross state borders, but 2 hours spent on the MITI website yielded a MITI letter. Which gets me through every roadblock. What magic.

If 2020 was the year that would never end, 2021 might top it still.

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