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The suiting thread

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If I could manage my time and schedule a trip to Malaysia, I would. The price to get a full canvassed suit in the US is 6-10 times that. You guys are in a good position as far as that goes.

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I've always found the chalkmarks very macho. But tailors in this part of the world do things very differently, prefering to rip apart seams and rebuild the baste on the customer itself, securing the new seams with pins. Generally, lots of pins. My sifu is very reluctant to mark the face side of the cloth with chalk, I think he finds it difficult to remove completely. Pins are also a lot more permanent, faint chalkmarks disappear when the garment is handled.

 

What my sifu lacks is the discipline to keep the paper pattern updated with changes to the baste. Hope I will perform better in that department.

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I've always found the chalkmarks very macho. But tailors in this part of the world do things very differently, prefering to rip apart seams and rebuild the baste on the customer itself, securing the new seams with pins. Generally, lots of pins. My sifu is very reluctant to mark the face side of the cloth with chalk, I think he finds it difficult to remove completely. Pins are also a lot more permanent, faint chalkmarks disappear when the garment is handled.

 

What my sifu lacks is the discipline to keep the paper pattern updated with changes to the baste. Hope I will perform better in that department.

 

 

i wandered to the working area of Norton & Sons yesterday where the aprrentices where handstiching the lapels and all. They looked really happy doing what they were doing. But Saville Row tailoer prefer a bit of both. On one jacket that I was shown that had just gone through the baste fitting, it was full of chalk marks and some pins.

 

Saw a gorgeous bundle of green Dormeuil flannel. The head cutter told me what I was looking once was 3 times the size, it was a really popular cloth that Patrick Grant managed to procure from Dormeuil although Dormeuil had ceased production of it.

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Fuhhh. Big timer suits.

 

Meanwhile sharing some pics of my first fitting today. Cloth is Minnis Crown Classic. First time going for full canvassed option so this will be costing a bit more than usual (about RM1200 after conversion).

 

Lazy to write what is going to be fixed, but as usual, comments are welcome so fire away..

 

 

Good looking shop, and really great 1st fitting. I can't really tell if the jacket is hugging your neck well enough - might be the t-shirt throwing me off. Front of the jacket can be slightly longer. Slight rumpling on the back of the sleeve.

 

Then obviously there's the length of the trousers and sleeves. You'll need shoes and your favourite dress shirt to get to the correct length.

 

Oh and I like the colour of the fabric.

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Just came back from my secret source. I almost cried when I saw the place, it was amazing!!

 

Some of the things I bought:

 

10 oz H.Lesser

High Twist Fresco from Woodhouse

Harrisons Cape Kid

Mid grey POW with blue overcheck from Woodhouse

Light grey Bulmer & Lumb in 75% wool and 25% kid mohair

 

 

Will go back to get some amazing jewels like:

 

Wain Shiell (i believe they have the largest collection of waine shiell in the UK)

Woodhouse

Smith Woolens for Balenciaga

Holland & Sherry for the Kuwait High Commission

 

And some amazing viscose and silk linings in fantastic colours!

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Just came back from my secret source. I almost cried when I saw the place, it was amazing!!

 

Some of the things I bought:

 

10 oz H.Lesser

High Twist Fresco from Woodhouse

Harrisons Cape Kid

Mid grey POW with blue overcheck from Woodhouse

Light grey Bulmer & Lumb in 75% wool and 25% kid mohair

 

 

Will go back to get some amazing jewels like:

 

Wain Shiell (i believe they have the largest collection of waine shiell in the UK)

Woodhouse

Smith Woolens for Balenciaga

Holland & Sherry for the Kuwait High Commission

 

And some amazing viscose and silk linings in fantastic colours!

 

TS, i hope you did not forget about us...

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Guest vecherin

Just came back from my secret source. I almost cried when I saw the place, it was amazing!!

 

Some of the things I bought:

 

10 oz H.Lesser

High Twist Fresco from Woodhouse

Harrisons Cape Kid

Mid grey POW with blue overcheck from Woodhouse

Light grey Bulmer & Lumb in 75% wool and 25% kid mohair

 

 

Will go back to get some amazing jewels like:

 

Wain Shiell (i believe they have the largest collection of waine shiell in the UK)

Woodhouse

Smith Woolens for Balenciaga

Holland & Sherry for the Kuwait High Commission

 

And some amazing viscose and silk linings in fantastic colours!

 

Were you at Crescent Trading near Spitalfields?

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It's not difficult it's impossible. Everything has to be flown in. The locals think Zegna is the ultimate shit -- a large amount of this gets made up in the workshop and the mediocrity in comparison to the retail cost is mind-bending. Zegna is a private joke among tailors -- they know its a circus.

 

Here, the wedding market -- cost-conscious, always in a hurry, oftentimes black, customers in their mid 20s (first time in their lives they're having clothes made instead of buying from a mall) -- are served by wool-poly blends. The executive market (I use the word executive in the sense of top management) is dominated almost entirely by Zegna & Loro Piana.

 

English cloths have vanishingly small market share.

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I think it's ironic that here in the US you can buy cloth relatively easy, but you can't find many tailors here who make

canvassed suits for a reasonable price. Whereas you guys can get one made by your guy Ah Loke, for a great price,

(at least to me), but can't readily find good cloth.

 

BTW, terror, if you do go to Crescent Trading, take a ton of pics of their cloth. I have been in communication with Martin

trying to persuade him to sell and ship to me here in the US.

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Fuhhh. Big timer suits.

 

Meanwhile sharing some pics of my first fitting today. Cloth is Minnis Crown Classic. First time going for full canvassed option so this will be costing a bit more than usual (about RM1200 after conversion).

 

Lazy to write what is going to be fixed, but as usual, comments are welcome so fire away..

 

6782601182_96002079ee.jpg

 

6928719095_4582c861d5.jpg

 

6782600010_6b729096d2.jpg

The Chinese know what they're doing. Did they use any chalkmarks or was it all just pins?

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I recall the tailor marking the buttoning point with chalk (he then proceeded to put a pin on it) but pins were used for all other areas.

 

Thanks for the comments. I know I wasn't dressed for the part but it was a casual Saturday out :)

 

For those who don't know, the tailor is D&J in Beijing.

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Round 2. Basically, the same thing as Round 1, except that this time, the jacket fits better. I also made a new canvas for this, which isn't anywhere near what I said I would do. The body canvas is on the bias and it has darts to help the drape (excess chest width) express itself the way it should.

 

round2.jpg

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Thought I would show the conturing of the canvas. One of my goals with this suit is to maximise chest convexity and to have a pronounced drape. The part of the canvas at the top where there are little black pricks is the shoulder area. Here, concavity is aimed for, even if it is to be straight shouldered because of the forward curve of the human shoulder. Below that is the chest area. The curved cutout close to you is the armsyce.

 

There are still several rows of pad stitching to be put in near the armscye but that is left until later when the final fitting has been done.

canvassultan1.jpg

 

A side view

canvassultan2.jpg

 

Giving pieces of canvasses that started out flat such a contour is several hours of work. It is what gives the jacket its shape, because the canvas is the understructure for the garment fabric.

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For Terror, who has an obsession with POW checks at the moment:

 

by Patrick Johnson Tailors made with Dugdale NFW.

 

tumblr_m011gbhipo1qhb7kho1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1330842623&Signature=eOhmKWZyQmNGjx3RIZfonsbrUQg%3D

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The way to a coatmaker's heart is by gifting him Clover Black Gold No. 9 needles. Gave to pack to the sifu today, he was smiling and super nice to me the whole day.

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Just arrived.Bought cloths and had a fantastic experience at the mills.Too tired to post pics but some pics can't be posted due to an agreement I had with the owners of the mills.Overall, an excellent experience and will hopefully be going again.

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