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kotmj

The suiting thread

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kotmj, not that I have anything against the good people of Shanghai, but any features you see on the suit would be more of a Beijingese feature :) I did notice the high position of the pockets but the tailor told me it was too late to change. I would have preferred them to be at the same level or slightly lower than the 2nd button position. I also requested for slanting pockets but the tailor missed that too. Should have asked for a discount eh..

The fabric is unbranded worsted from British Fabrics, got it for about 70 quid.

 

It is rare to see a tailor mis-position a pocket since the pocket level is an inherent feature of the drafting system, which is why I thought it might not be a mistake but rather a regional feature.

 

The Malaysian way of doing fittings makes for a basted jacket that has neither the front darts nor the pocket mouth cut. Instead, the pocket mouth is slightly folded and sewn to simulate the look. That way the cutter can still move things around. I've never seen this in the literature, they always have you cut the pockets right at the beginning.

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It goes beyond well done. It is a superlative creation.

 

BTW, we need to start defining your suit. Let's do it via email, I'll write to you this weekend.

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I had some reservations about getting a pinstripe but the pic above totally blew them away. So I ordered both the navy herringbone and grey pinstripe Minnis. Thanks terrorsquad for the heads up :D

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Happy to hear that deriku,I'm sure they would make excellent suits that serve you well.I missed out when the Rangoon was discontinued which is a shame.Anybody knows where I can get the Harrisons Firefly range or at least where to order it?

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2308.jpg

 

Deriku, great classic design. The pinstripe is really subtle. The grey shade will probably be lighter than in the image, that site is infamous for their inaccurate (dark) pictures.

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I'm surprised by the shipping speed for the Minnis cloth via TNT. Took all of 4 days (excluding Hari Raya Haji) for it to reach Malaysia, far better than anything shippied via Royal Mail.

 

Date Time Location Status 08 Nov 2011 00:22:02 Petaling Jaya Onforwarded For Delivery 06 Nov 2011 22:23:26 Petaling Jaya Shipment Received At Destination Depot. 06 Nov 2011 13:37:45 Kuala Lumpur Shipment In Transit. 06 Nov 2011 11:32:17 Kuala Lumpur Shipment Received At Transit Point. 05 Nov 2011 03:52:05 Kuala Lumpur Pre Arrival Clearance Started 05 Nov 2011 03:15:00 Liege Euro Hub Shipment In Transit. 04 Nov 2011 21:56:40 East Midlands Airport Shipment In Transit. 04 Nov 2011 21:48:06 East Midlands Airport Shipment Received At Transit Point. 04 Nov 2011 19:47:00 Bradford Shipment In Transit. 04 Nov 2011 18:57:07 Bradford Shipment In Transit. 04 Nov 2011 18:38:14 Bradford Shipment Received At Origin Depot.

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Does anyone know what is the current price for a 2 piece suit at Iris? I know gshen mentioned it on sf some time ago but I would think the price might have went up since that thread was created.

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Just had a look, it says SGD700 for jacket and SGD150 for pants.

 

Anyway, just as I thought I knew how trousers were supposed to look, Dittos shows me the real thing:

 

ti.jpgth.jpg

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those trousers are beautiful...the drape is truly a mark of a master tailor...im drooling over it :mellow:

 

its good to see more and more people joining the forum...would make things more lively here...of course, it may be because of the gravitational pull of thekerbau.com's godfather, Dato kotmj

:D:P

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It is possible to double the number of registered members within 48 hours by making my apprenticeship thread accessible only to members. There are many guests here. A similar effect can be achieved with your second tranche of ties by making them available only to members.

 

However, I am happy with the level of discourse now. Easily the highest quality amongst English-language Asian foras, and this includes hardwarezone (the Singaporean equivalent of lowyat). In fact, while I was still there, lowyat was the liveliest place for menswear discussion in the English language in Asia. Now, the menswear portion has come to thekerbau and lowyat is left with kidswear and juvenilewear. You know, Aldo shoes and Florsheims shoes and Fossil bags and black polyester jackets worn with black jeans. Stuff like that.

 

Thekerbau.com OTOH is all about the sartorial and grooming needs of men who have to make things happen in the world.

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Very well done with the forum, gents. The level of sartorial knowledge here is very impressive. Just got validated and signed in. Guess I'm deleting Lowyat from my bookmarks now. Kotmj, hope to get a fit critique from you at ALT one day soon!

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I woke up today and read comments from kotmj and zinzan and the rest of the forum and it struck me that there really is a small niche area in Malaysia of men who are hungry to learn and willing to invest in finely tailored pieces of clothing and and accessories. This is very refreshing for me as I am surrounded daily by people who will balk at the thought of even spending more then RM200 on a tailored cotton shirt but would rather spend the same amount of money on poor quality shirts from ZARA as they are 'fashionable'. This are the same people who strive for Hugo Boss shirts and other 'premium/luxury brands' like Prada or Gucci. Where as for me, a premium/luxury brand would be the Charvet's, Borelli's ,John Lobb, Lattanzi and Rubinacci's of this world.

 

i started out like other newbies by trawling the endless pages of SF and LYN to learn as much as I could about being not 'fashionable; but rather looking and feeling good and confident of myself in finely cut pieces of clothing. Along the way, i've learned a lot especially about fit and quality. Nowadays, I do have some knowledge on where are the best places to get quality accessories (Drake's!!) at good prices together with the best places to get finely tailored clothing ('Ah Loke and Iris!!). I would have to thank kotmj, especially on suits, for sharing his knowledge with a newbie like me at that time. I am still learning but i take great delight and pride when people compliment me on my water-polished Loake's and Finamore shirt and i get to see the surprised look on their faces when they are told that my shoes are not Ferragamo or my shirt is not from Gucci or Prada.

 

I personally hope that this forum grows and reaches the level of the Malaysian or South East Asian or even Asian level of SF. We already have gerald as a member of this forum who has vast knowledge on fine clothing and especially beautiful silk ties and pocket squares. Hopefully, I will be making the trip across the Causeway next month to visit Vanda's workshop.

 

To the guys who have just joined the forum or are planning to, welcome. This would be our local retreat where grown men like us are able to gather and discuss about Drake's silk ties, the best fabric to make shirts and the fine cut and fit of a perfectly tailored suit which I'm very sure all of us in this forum strive for. I hope we will be able to share true knowledge, not some comments like 'your shirt looks funny' or 'your suit doesn't look nice on your body' type of comments.At least. comments on button stance, sleeve rotation and sloping shoulder's would help the person commisioning the suit or shirt at that time.We will be far away from the public opinion where it is not 'manly' or 'macho' to look at fabrics for shirts or fuss about buttonholes or invest in a beautiful silk tie. As far as i care, this type of people have no place in this forum.

 

So again, welcome guys! (i hope kotmj doesnt mind me giving this long speech, I was feeling inspirational this morning! :D )

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Bravo, Mr Terrorsquad! I'll contribute some fitting pics of my current commission at Iris when I go on Tuesday.

 

It's a Dormeuil tropical wool (a super 100s called "Tropical Amadeus") glenplaid with lilac windowpane. Single-breasted, peak lapel, one-button. Fully canvassed, quarter-lined and unpadded. Yes I threw in a ticket pocket too. But no barchetta breast pocket!

 

The coat has already been struck but I'm not sure exactly how advanced the finishing is yet. It's my first coat commission with Iris (I've made two shirts and maybe five pairs of trousers) and my first coat commission with some SF-gleaned knowledge, so I'm expecting plenty of room for improvement. But it's all about the journey, right?

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Thank you for the warm welcome Terror squad. I am at the point of the learning curve of trawling the low yat (i've grown out of that within a week), styleforum, gshen and GW. I've always been an admirer of Saville Row styling ie Gieves & Hawkes and Anderson Shepard, never thought i could afford them. You guys have shown (esp koktmj) that you dont 10-20k to get a beautiful bespoke suit.

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Bravo, Mr Terrorsquad! I'll contribute some fitting pics of my current commission at Iris when I go on Tuesday.

 

It's a Dormeuil tropical wool (a super 100s called "Tropical Amadeus") glenplaid with lilac windowpane. Single-breasted, peak lapel, one-button. Fully canvassed, quarter-lined and unpadded. Yes I threw in a ticket pocket too. But no barchetta breast pocket!

 

The coat has already been struck but I'm not sure exactly how advanced the finishing is yet. It's my first coat commission with Iris (I've made two shirts and maybe five pairs of trousers) and my first coat commission with some SF-gleaned knowledge, so I'm expecting plenty of room for improvement. But it's all about the journey, right?

Yes, do post pics, coat sounds very bold.

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