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The suiting thread

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It seems there are a lot of new members today!

 

Anyway, some suiting fabrics available on SF today.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/272469/hlesser-for-carlo-barbera-loro-piana-fresco-90-10-cashmere-john-hardy-super-100-cashmere-virgin-wool-plaids

 

And

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/274418/large-suiting-fabric-sale-st-andrews-and-kiton

 

And this is I believe a very comprehensive source on the mills that you can source suiting fabrics from:

 

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=26

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I hope i survive the critique!

 

@terror Some nice cloths there. You picking anything up? Lots of winter weight cloths though.

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I just sent in a PM about the H.lesser grey twill though I have a feeling it's more suited for cold weather as its a twill weave.I expect the cloth will weigh around 12-14oz...just waiting for confirmation from newyorkranger.

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Guys I'm not from your area of the world, (US, midwest, near Chicago), but with the internet and such, I don't think that matters much these days. I have been sewing for 11 years and have learned much about clothing: style, fit, quality cloths and construction. Like kotmj, I am now learning to tailor, though in the US, there are very few tailors to apprentice with. Still. my determination to sew has gotten me to the point where I have a "cottage industry" going making shirts, bow ties, pochettes, even a suit here and there (not yet canvassed) for friends and acquaintances. I will share what I know and look forward to learning from you. When it coes to quality cloths and silks are they readily available there in Malaysia?

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Just got reply from newyorkranger, the cloth is definitely heavy.Joonian,I'm not adventurous enough to try the riveira in that colour but It looks like a good deal.I've sent a PM on the hardy amies, I've been looking for that design for quite some time.

 

Unfortunately, the flannel is 11oz.And while i was negotiating the flannel, the H&S was snapped up. :(

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Amateursarto,quality cloths are quite pricey in Malaysia as the mark up is quite significant by the sellers.If you talk about fabric such as silk, Malaysia has a very unique design of silk fabric called the 'Batik'.The prices also vary and can be quite pricey.For silk that you would want to use to make pocket squares or ties, I have x idea to be honest.

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Guest RubRubRub

hi, i'm new so pls mind my newbie questions. I'm planning to get a suit for myself later next summer. How much money should i set aside for a two piece tailored suit?

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It should be you setting the budget and working around the budget, unless you have an unlimited budget.Where are you based?Do you want to use your own fabric, lining and fittings?Do you want a fused, half canvassed or fully canvassed suit?

 

Actually, you should read kotmj's sticky in LYN first.

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Guest RubRubRub

hi terrorsquad,

 

thanks for replying. I'm sick and tired of ill-fitting suits. Watching people wear them aches my eyes. It is as if they just draped curtain over their body.

 

i'm based In KL. I do a limited budget but i'm willing to spend for a suit that will years of enjoyment. However i'd love my 1st suit to be affordable 1st before i go for something really premium. I want to use my own fabric, lining and my own fit.

 

I'd love a fully canvassed suit but how does half canvassed fair?

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Kotmj -- what's the weight on that H&S?

 

Rubrubrub -- Why don't you register? I don't know the prices in KL, but the Lowyat menswear forum should have posts from kotmj and others listing prices in the suiting thread. The amount of canvasing also depends on the style of the suit, its purpose, the cloth, etc. If it's going to be for business then a full canvas would be fine. If it's going to be very lightly constructed, with more fun patterns and mainly trotted out for events like weddings and expensive dinners, then a half canvas may be sufficient. Just examples of what I think are some factors affecting the canvasing decision.

 

In fact, according to the tailoring threads on Styleforum, current fusing technology isn't that bad either. A fused suit may not be the worst thing in the world, especially if the cloth is quite pedestrian to begin with.

 

On a separate note: Really want to do a navy or slightly lighter double-breasted suit in a nice, heavy, slubby, pure linen or blend. Almost denim-like. Any cloth suggestions?

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Budget around RM1600 for half canvassed and RM2300 for full canvassed. This will include good lining and very good fabric.If you want sources on where to get good cloth, refer to my post on the mills that sell cloth. But bear in mind the price for workmanship is based on ALT's prices.

 

Joonian, im x sure about navy but if you want something in brown cotton, you can check out the post for attolini's fabrics. The colour is light beige.Would make a cool summer suit.

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Joonian, that H&S is a 10 oz.

 

http://hollandandsherry.com/apparel/collections.aspx?season=SS2009&details=HS109

 

You don't really want a physically slubby linen because that is a sign of low quality. Good quality linen cloth is woven from very regular yarns. What you probably want is the chambray colouring, basically a melange of two (or more) colours, like this ebay cloth with no known provenance. I might actually buy this for practice.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DARK-BLUE-BLACK-HINTS-IRISH-LINEN-TYPE-FABRIC-/300424306836?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric_Textiles_SM&hash=item45f2af2094

!BsfQlggBGk~$(KGrHqIH-C4EvCWUTyvdBL4Et-2Kr!~~_12.JPG

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Alright gents, here are the pics from my final fitting at Iris.

 

A close up of the coat, a tropical wool from Dormeuil.

photo5-1.jpg

 

The lining, also from Dormeuil. It's got a party trick where it changes colour from purple to green. I forgot to ask what it was but I think it's bemberg.

photo4-1.jpg

 

This is my first fit critique online. The back looks abysmal from this angle!

 

Things to note. I have a very dropped right shoulder. Like extremely dropped. Posture in general is screwed up due to some mild scoliosis. Lower half is generally quite wide.

 

On to the coat. Some wrinkling at the left underarm. Although it does look quite clean across the shoulders.

 

Trousers are a disaster. I actually made those before the coat, and they've just been freshly altered again to loosen them up a bit. It's like my fifth or sixth trouser commission from Iris and I still get the bunching at the back. Any ideas on how to fix?

photo3-1.jpg

 

Sleeves look quite good. Minimal wrinkling and pooling. Vents are nice and flat.

photo2-1.jpg

 

Front looks very clean to my eye. I would have liked the peak to be slightly higher up, maybe an inch or so. But this is alright.

 

Sleeves are slightly imbalanced, but will be fixed.

 

I noticed the right shoulder felt like it was lifting slightly, and that will be fixed. They will let out some material at the shoulder and drop the front of the coat slightly so that it hugs the shoulder more.

 

Buttoning point will be raised about half an inch. Any thoughts on this appreciated.

 

The foreparts (quarters? term?) are quite closed compared to some Italian style coats. Slightly more than an inch of overlap between the two sides. I requested them to be quite closed for this commission. Length also will be adjusted as it's imbalanced here.

 

Thoughts on waist suppression? Lapel width? Details?

 

Trousers should have one break, here they look like they have 1.5. But they need work in general.

 

photo-1.jpg

 

So that's that. Comments appreciated!

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Those peak lapels remind me of Tom ford suits spoo wears so well.What is the width of the lapels joonian?At least 3.5' correct?I think the lapels are fine, any higher it would look comical.

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@Terror -- yes spoo is the exemplar of peak lapel wearing! I must have been subconsciously influenced by his fit pics when I ordered mine. Yes I think it was 3.5". This is the standard size recommended by Iris. I didn't make any changes there.

 

On a side note, I'm told that I'm in a standing in a particularly awkward way when the pictures were taken. I'll take another set of pics next week when I get the suit back to see if it looks any better.

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Just on a side note. A few months back I bought some fresco wool from Howard at British Fabrics upon kotmj's recommendation. I always b!tch about the weather in Malaysia and how wearing a suit is gonna make me sweat.

 

Surprisingly, with the fresco cloth + half lining, I have never once complained that it's warm when wearing the suit. And keep in mind I've walked in areas such as underground carparks. Might test it out one day under the hot sun and see.

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Hi guys, here from Singapore! found this forum through the LY thread... took a whole night reading the whole thing and was impressed by KOTMJ's sartorial knowledge! This beats any forum I could find locally :D

 

Looking to get my 3rd jacket done. It will be my first time doing a jacket at Iris though, I already have a charcoal grey suit (VBC s110 wool) and a navy blazer (VBC hopsack) done by another tailor and it was quite the disappointment. Both jackets were too tight at the back and when i move my arms about, the lapels would "bow" out.

 

I was looking at doing something casual, unlined and with patch pockets. considering the harrisons' firefly range, or kid mohair/wool blends in a light stone grey shade, do you guys have any recommendations on other fabric? Having trouble finding a place stocking the harrisons' firefly range though, would appreciate your help!

 

kid mohair 65% wool 35% - would this fabric turn out to be really shiny and rough?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KID-MOHAIR-WOOL-WORSTED-SUITING-LENGTH-3-80-MTS-/300583911861?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric_Textiles_SM&hash=item45fc3281b5#ht_500wt_1180

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hmm... I think you can buy Harrison's directly online now. I was told that they no longer have a local distributor in Singapore.

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