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The suiting thread


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#21 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 06:37 PM

I've come to believe that working cuffs are highly overrated. I've never actually used any of mine.

They are so incovenient to open! And even less convenient to button back. I just couldn't be bothered.

If one wants working cuffs that are actually convenient to use, this Japanese solution (on a magnificent jacket) is hard to beat:
Posted Image

#22 kenterong

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 08:53 PM

agreed. this seems like a more practical solution to the implementation of working cuffs.

#23 terrorsquad

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 09:11 PM

I'm hoping that my working cuffs will be ok.have you decided which cloth your gonna purchase kenterong?

#24 kenterong

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 09:37 PM

nope, not yet. your dugdale experience is kind of scaring me off, and it doesn't seem to make it any different from buying the dunhill.

how do i post pictures from my hard drive on this forum anyway? please don't tell me i have to host it on photobucket or flickr.

#25 terrorsquad

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 09:50 PM

I have x idea. Kotmj uses photo bucket.I guess dugdales would be ok as you would be sending it to the UK so you won't incur shipping.just ask your friend/brother to make sure it's the right one.in my case,they were willing to send me the cloth that I wanted but I had to send back the one I received and bear the shipping cost which is not worth it.Try dealing with Caroline Tempest...I dealt with Rian Taylor...

#26 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:09 PM

If you want proper working cuffs from AL you have to tell him you want them like shirt cuffs -- completely unbuttonable and rollupable. My first suit had cuffs like kenterong, which I actually found rather charming since you don't see it anywhere else. But then I was so blown away by the obvious quality of my first suit I hadn't the heart to complain about anything.

#27 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:23 PM

testing testing

Attached File  trewsback.JPG   22.83K   11 downloads

#28 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:24 PM

To upload pics just use "attach a file" then "add to post".

#29 kenterong

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:26 PM

well, i did get what i wanted in the end. just that i didn't really like how it was done. and in hindsight, you're right: you won't necessarily open the cuffs and roll them up at any given time.

is this picture posted from your hard drive?

#30 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:27 PM

yes, from desktop

#31 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:53 PM

So, now for the trousers.

It is fashion nowadays to wear trousers at the hips, like jeans. Cut them any higher and each and every customer will say you make an uncle cut. Traditionally, trousers sit just below the natural waist. Admittedly, this is a very dated look nowadays. The brown line is where I guess the natural waist to be.

Posted Image

I personally have trousers higher than yours but lower than natural waist.

Notice the "whisker" pulling on the front of trews near fly. This is a textbook sign that the trews are too tight.

Next pic:
Posted Image

The advantage to having high rise trews is that you don't look like your trews are about to expose your buttcrack, however attractive a sight that may be.

AL needs to take up the trousers at the back and let out the thighs to achieve a clean back of trews (like in my pic above).

Would the trews not look infinitely better if they had the silhouette I marked out in a navy line below?
Posted Image

However, there is very little acceptance for such drapey trews. Customers clutch the back of their thighs and ask the tailor WTF all that cloth is there for. They are there for the look, my dear, the look.

#32 kotmj

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:15 PM

Some of you will also observe that people wear sarongs at their natural waists. This is a most natural thing to do since you are most narrow there.

#33 kenterong

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:17 PM

kotmj, you're quite right. overall, it is still a pretty good suit that i got. and i believe i still owe you some pictures of it.


i may have to take back what i said earlier, based on some pictures i took a few hours ago.

Attached File  _DSC4328_1 copy.jpg   82.4K   73 downloads

Attached File  _DSC4319_1 copy.jpg   78.38K   69 downloads

Attached File  _DSC4320 copy.jpg   87.21K   49 downloads

Attached File  _DSC4332_1 copy.jpg   79.48K   42 downloads

#34 terrorsquad

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:40 PM

Thanks again kotmj!I have asked him to raise the back just now.Al agreed that as it was to low,it caused the back of the trousers to bunch.I also pointed out I wanted pants like he was wearing as the drape of his trousers were perfect. For the waist part, your point is noted.I will ask him to adjust accordingly.AL must be getting really tired of seeing me...

#35 terrorsquad

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:42 PM

We need pictures kenterong!!

#36 kenterong

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:45 PM

just uploaded. have a go at it, guys.

#37 kenterong

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 08:11 AM

two things come to mind when i look at the pictures i posted: one, AL still didn't get it right even after kotmj pointed out the problems in the suit.

OR two, i must've put on some weight in between the time when i went for that last fitting with kotmj and when the suit was finalized. i suppose i had been working out quite a bit at the gym in that period.

#38 kotmj

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 01:46 PM

I think AL did do the shoulder slope and balance correction I pointed out. But somehow, the coatmaker did not stretch the side seams enough which causes the puckering at the small of back.

The puckering due to short seams and the slightly incorrect curvature of sleeves are the only two problems with the coat. Everything else is pretty much OK. The spotlights accentuate the inevitable ripples in the very thin cloth. What is remarkable is that the shoulder has a very definite line despite being padded only with a single ply of polyester!

The trousers have the usual problems endemic of every tailor. Quite unavoidable with slim fits.

#39 kotmj

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 01:53 PM

When you come around, bring along the suit and we'll see what the sifu has to say about it.

#40 terrorsquad

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 02:09 PM

kenterong, to 99% of the masses, your suit looks really good.It fits you nicely and defines your body.Seeing your suit makes me want to make a DB also though i think im too thin to be able to carry off one.

Guys, anyone interested to purchase horn buttons and lining from UK?im planning to buy some, ship it to my brother in the UK.He will come back in January.Then you will save money for shipping.




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