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terrorsquad

The Official Kerbau Cloth Thread : H.Lesser 8/9oz RAF blue

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I dunno what happened today. Maybe the stars were aligned a certain way, or the moon had something to do with it. Maybe it was the LRT project nearby.

 

Because both trousers I fitted today went on like a dream. This one in the kerbau cloth for instance.

 

P9230253_zps6c71bf59.jpgP9230252_zps17480313.jpgP9230255_zps3a031342.jpg

 

(In the last pic, the horizontal creases were due to the trousers having hung from a hanger for 2 weeks.)

 

Trousers aren't always this easy to fit. Sometimes, I spend 30 minutes just on the trousers, over three fittings, and at the end the customer tells me to consult jeffryD about it.

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So, the great clothmakers at Harrisons thought they would reissue the Lesser SFT RAF blue. On the left, the old Lesser aka Kerbau cloth. On the right, the Duncan RAF blue.

rafbluecomparison.jpg

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Just collected my Kerbau cloth suit from D&J Beijing, had it made into a conservative SB. Will post pics when I'm not too busy travelling.

 

Is D&J any good?

I would prefer travel a little bit further to Hong Kong for Peter Lee. Just the first visit and for the second, you can send your cloth to them. I did this for a few times.

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^^ IIRC Minnis fresco 520 is to the kerbau cloth, what the kerbau cloth is to the above Duncan RAF blue - slightly more mottled and variegated, but otherwise almost identical from afar. Can only confirm when Nani finishes up my suit though.

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Arc, where did you get the fresco? Send my regards to Nani, by the way. Didnt have time to stop in before I left for London.

 

(null)

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Purchased from Huddersfield along with a bunch of linings for future projects. I didn't realise how similar the fresco was to the SFT until they were placed side by side - almost the same tone! So my fresco is now queued to be made into a DB.

 

I'll send her your regards when I drop by month's end!

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Saw the baron's kerbau db just now sans buttonholes and before final press. I hope you guys are prepared for the awesomeness. If the moon shines tomorrow I may take some pics.

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I don't have a house style. I have models, each with their own cut and construction.

 

Having said that, not everything I want realised, has been realised. There are also intractable constraints that restrict what I can achieve with lapels, especially on DBs. Lapel shape is not something you can arbitrarily outline with the chalk. You have to consider the organizational impact that line has.

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Beautiful. I'm not a fan of how those peaks look (I have a very strong preference for peaks which point skyward), but that jacket looks so full of character. Are those jetted pockets or are the flaps just inside?

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It sounds absurd, but the shape of the lapel has a major impact on the company and its supply chain. One of these days, like me, someone young will decide they want to be a tailor too, "but with better lapels than kotmj". They might not actually recover from the explosion that will ensue by their third or fourth DB.

 

The flaps are inside.

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