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kotmj

Shirts

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Just received two lengths of shirtings today. A French blue pure linen and a cream cotton-linen. Can't reveal the source though.

 

frenchblue.jpg

 

I watched "1911" last week and the costuming was very authentic. Every shirt in the movie was made of linen. It turns out that despite what the Chinese wore on the outside -- silk or wool -- they always had linen next to their skin in the form of a shirt. I totally understand why.

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very nice cloth. Guys, what are the hallmarks of a finely tailored shirt?I just received Acorn's price list from James.If we were to order from him, that means that the price under C or 'cuts' applies to us, is this correct?

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Shirts are a long story. One of the most fundamental aspects is shoulder slope.

 

waistline.jpg

 

In the pic you see diagonal "folds" of cloth around the upper chest. These are highlighted with black lines. They exist because the shoulder of the shirt was cut for someone with higher shoulders than yours. If the slope of the shirt's shoulder matches yours, the chest area would be very clean.

 

But this is just one aspect. Shirts are a long story. There is the fit, there is the construction, and there are the proportions. I wouldn't even know where to start.

 

And yeah, "C" is your pricing category. What are you planning to get?

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i was looking at the Regent,Royal oxford and also the King.I plan to make around 3 shirts. I need 2 meters for each shirt right?

 

I would be very interested on the construction. So far i only know that it should not be fused.

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The Regent and King are inferior to the Grange (I have several shirts in all three cloths). Basically, stick to the Grange. It is the finer, smoother fabric.

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Sounds good if not particularly exciting. No oxfords? I'm eyeing one that I've been wanting for a long time after seeing a swatch of it, but it is very next level and it is difficult to justify accumulating so much cloth. I really need to find a cheap and good shirtmaker and have her make up a dozen shirts at a time.

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Guest Terrorsquad

The thing is i have so many blue shirts.maybe i'll throw in a white oxford also.how long did it take for acorn to send your fabric kotmj?

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How about pink? Women go crazy when they see a guy in a soft pink.

 

One can do blue (obviously), pink, tan and grey. Have a look at CC grey.

 

It takes Acorn a long time to process my order. Something like a week to two.

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I have so many lengths I have yet to make up. I am an intolerable perfectionist with tailors and their hearts sink when they see me enter the shop. To avoid them screwing up an entire batch of cloth, I end up commissioning a shirt or two at a time at most.

 

A recent haul

trio.jpg

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Just realised that the seamstress who made this shirt was clever enough to camouflage the row of sewing between the stripes...

camouflage.jpg

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Kotmj would really appreciate it if you could do a feature on what makes a good shirt, or more specifically good shirt vs bad shirt, particularly when it comes to fit. I find that there is a line between too slim fitting and a perfect fit, which many including myself have screwed up on.

 

I asked Ah Loke to make me a slim fit shirt, the shoulders were beautifully clean, but everything else was almost a disaster. Too much pulling and lines on the waist, looked very ugly without a suit covering it up. Pity though, because it was the first time I wore a 120 cotton shirt and it felt so good.

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Des, I've tried writing about shirts in the past (on lowyat) but the problem was they got very technical very quickly and people couldn't relate to or understand what I wrote. It's difficult to talk about the technicalities of a shirt to people who do not even know where the yoke is. Even my suiting sticky is too complicated for most people judging from the questions I got. I understand now why most "popular" writings about suits limit themselves to immediately apparent things like showing 1/2" of shirt cuff or the jacket not being lower than the knuckle of your thumb. One immediately loses the audience when one starts talking about the depth of front darts, or making cuts in the pattern and expanding the chest area. However, to have any hope of making a superlative jacket one needs to talk at considerable length about these things.

 

I may make another attempt when I think I have found a way to relate these things. But really, a reason calculus is so abstract is because it cannot be made any more concrete without losing it's universality. To talk about shirts in a simple way will cause the creation of simple, unsophisticated shirts.

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Someone should really get these shirts...it's such a steal for the prices offered...it's my size but the shoulders are way to big...http://www.styleforum.net/t/273400/spoos-closet-vol-2-lot-of-5-charvet-staple-business-shirts-2-rtw-3-mtm-bespoke-15-5-33-34

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Ah Loke Tailor makes very satisfactory shirts for something like RM130 (labour only). He's in KL though.

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I don't have any cloth of my own, I wouldn't know what and how to buy it. How much for a shirt with his cloth?

 

I've had some shirts made by Joe's and Iris in Singapore for between SGD130 - SGD160 each.

 

I've heard a lot about Jantzen, I'm thinking of visiting them since I'll be in HK for 5 days.

 

What do you think?

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Joe Hemrajani or something like that is pretty well known for shirts. There is also Ascot Chang.

 

I would not do Jantzen, sounds like the HK version of decatano.

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Cancer (i find your name very disturbing, sorry), you can order shirting fabric from Acorn Fabrics in the UK.If you want the price list, PM me and I will send it to you. Another alternative is to hunt for it on SF, I've seen some beautiful Alumo, Thomas Mason and Grandi & Rubinelli shirt fabric on sale there by members of the forum.

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Hi Guys, kudos to u guys on very good forum. My experiences in bespoke are amateurish at most. I thought i knew where the good tailors in KL. but what i never knew the attention to detail that you guys pore into the shirt.and the suits. Well prior to this, i thought wardrobe was the best tailor in town. They've some good work for me and i really liked it. I know u guys think otherwise I am also guilty of buying designer suits ie Hugo Boss..But i'm really keen to learn how to make a good bespoke suit and buying beautiful bespoke shoes like vass. Neways nice to meet you guys

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