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#1 kotmj

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 06:11 PM

Just received two lengths of shirtings today. A French blue pure linen and a cream cotton-linen. Can't reveal the source though.

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I watched "1911" last week and the costuming was very authentic. Every shirt in the movie was made of linen. It turns out that despite what the Chinese wore on the outside -- silk or wool -- they always had linen next to their skin in the form of a shirt. I totally understand why.

#2 terrorsquad

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 02:53 PM

very nice cloth. Guys, what are the hallmarks of a finely tailored shirt?I just received Acorn's price list from James.If we were to order from him, that means that the price under C or 'cuts' applies to us, is this correct?

#3 kotmj

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 04:29 PM

Shirts are a long story. One of the most fundamental aspects is shoulder slope.

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In the pic you see diagonal "folds" of cloth around the upper chest. These are highlighted with black lines. They exist because the shoulder of the shirt was cut for someone with higher shoulders than yours. If the slope of the shirt's shoulder matches yours, the chest area would be very clean.

But this is just one aspect. Shirts are a long story. There is the fit, there is the construction, and there are the proportions. I wouldn't even know where to start.

And yeah, "C" is your pricing category. What are you planning to get?

#4 terrorsquad

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 09:31 PM

i was looking at the Regent,Royal oxford and also the King.I plan to make around 3 shirts. I need 2 meters for each shirt right?

I would be very interested on the construction. So far i only know that it should not be fused.

#5 kotmj

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 10:11 PM

The Regent and King are inferior to the Grange (I have several shirts in all three cloths). Basically, stick to the Grange. It is the finer, smoother fabric.

#6 terrorsquad

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 10:44 PM

Ok,i plan to get the CC sky,FJ blue and the plaintif white...

#7 kotmj

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 11:14 PM

Sounds good if not particularly exciting. No oxfords? I'm eyeing one that I've been wanting for a long time after seeing a swatch of it, but it is very next level and it is difficult to justify accumulating so much cloth. I really need to find a cheap and good shirtmaker and have her make up a dozen shirts at a time.

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 11:59 PM

The thing is i have so many blue shirts.maybe i'll throw in a white oxford also.how long did it take for acorn to send your fabric kotmj?

#9 kotmj

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 12:06 AM

How about pink? Women go crazy when they see a guy in a soft pink.

One can do blue (obviously), pink, tan and grey. Have a look at CC grey.

It takes Acorn a long time to process my order. Something like a week to two.

#10 kotmj

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 12:12 AM

I have so many lengths I have yet to make up. I am an intolerable perfectionist with tailors and their hearts sink when they see me enter the shop. To avoid them screwing up an entire batch of cloth, I end up commissioning a shirt or two at a time at most.

A recent haul
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#11 kotmj

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Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:46 AM

Just realised that the seamstress who made this shirt was clever enough to camouflage the row of sewing between the stripes...
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#12 Desvaro

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Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:13 PM

Kotmj would really appreciate it if you could do a feature on what makes a good shirt, or more specifically good shirt vs bad shirt, particularly when it comes to fit. I find that there is a line between too slim fitting and a perfect fit, which many including myself have screwed up on.

I asked Ah Loke to make me a slim fit shirt, the shoulders were beautifully clean, but everything else was almost a disaster. Too much pulling and lines on the waist, looked very ugly without a suit covering it up. Pity though, because it was the first time I wore a 120 cotton shirt and it felt so good.

#13 kotmj

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 11:32 PM

Des, I've tried writing about shirts in the past (on lowyat) but the problem was they got very technical very quickly and people couldn't relate to or understand what I wrote. It's difficult to talk about the technicalities of a shirt to people who do not even know where the yoke is. Even my suiting sticky is too complicated for most people judging from the questions I got. I understand now why most "popular" writings about suits limit themselves to immediately apparent things like showing 1/2" of shirt cuff or the jacket not being lower than the knuckle of your thumb. One immediately loses the audience when one starts talking about the depth of front darts, or making cuts in the pattern and expanding the chest area. However, to have any hope of making a superlative jacket one needs to talk at considerable length about these things.

I may make another attempt when I think I have found a way to relate these things. But really, a reason calculus is so abstract is because it cannot be made any more concrete without losing it's universality. To talk about shirts in a simple way will cause the creation of simple, unsophisticated shirts.

#14 Desvaro

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 12:04 AM

You do have a good point, perhaps this can be a different type of community then.

#15 terrorsquad

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:19 AM

Someone should really get these shirts...it's such a steal for the prices offered...it's my size but the shoulders are way to big...http://www.styleforum.net/t/273400/spoos-closet-vol-2-lot-of-5-charvet-staple-business-shirts-2-rtw-3-mtm-bespoke-15-5-33-34

#16 kenterong

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:38 PM

is it just me, or do i have to jump through hoops to get the price list for acorn products?

#17 terrorsquad

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:03 AM

I easily got the price list from James.PM me your email kenterong and I'll forward you the latest price list.

#18 Cancer

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 10:02 PM

Where can I find a kotmj-approved tailor in Malaysia and what is the price range?

#19 kotmj

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 11:22 PM

Ah Loke Tailor makes very satisfactory shirts for something like RM130 (labour only). He's in KL though.

#20 Cancer

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Posted 10 November 2011 - 11:34 AM

I don't have any cloth of my own, I wouldn't know what and how to buy it. How much for a shirt with his cloth?

I've had some shirts made by Joe's and Iris in Singapore for between SGD130 - SGD160 each.

I've heard a lot about Jantzen, I'm thinking of visiting them since I'll be in HK for 5 days.

What do you think?




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