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On 03/05/2018 at 11:46 AM, kotmj said:

That's why it is necessary to have a tame, muted, universally accepted BD when the customer doesn't come from menswear enthusiast circles.

 

The great unwashed

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Soktas Linda Meander 71

66% Cotton 34% Linen

Very  light and porose, relatively less prone to wrinkles than pure linen. Single ply. Horizontal unstructured fine white lines across. Translucent with light, suggested as shirt fabric for hot summer days.

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2nd from right chosen as test shirt

 

 

IMG_8170_1.JPG

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I've made quite a number of shirts in the Soktas Linda Meander 71. It has a weft of slubby linen. Warp is the Meander 71, a particularly long staple cotton grown on Soktas' own plantation in the Meander Valley. I had a customer in the shop last weekend who took delivery of a navy linen jacket in H&S South Pacific linen, and was keen on a linen shirt. He's from the Indian subcontinent, and has a strong preference for all things linen. For the shirt, he wanted a pure linen, but I nudged him towards the Linda. I think the Indians grow up with a sort of reverence towards linen, so he was torn between pure linen, or a linen-cotton. I told him the Linda is "less agricultural". He said he has no problem with linen's "agricultural look".

About the Meander 71: I've been wearing a shirt in the very stout 2X2 ply Meander 71 lately. Argh! It's not suitable for the Malaysian climate! It wears very warm; totally not porous. But it is very smooth and feels indestructable. It's not exactly thick, but just feels compactly woven, almost crisp, and just very smooth with very little surface hairiness. In that sense it is something special and non-generic. In cooler climates it would make a wonderful shirt.

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Right now as I'm typing this I'm wearing a shirt in a fabric that was woven like a net. Super porous, but thick and heavy to prevent skin colouration from showing through. It's super comfortable for our climate.

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The single ply Meander 71 doesn't feel warm. Just a little too translucent and a little too 'shiny' for my liking. 

Just found out that it is tough to iron out the creases as well. LOL

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The brooks brothers button down circa 2018 made in USA - a welcome return of the original soft floppy unlined collar. 

The people are divided on the omission of the chest pocket, I would have preferred it, but don't mind this version. 

tumblr_pam8yiDswb1qhcqt5o1_540.jpg

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I find it a convenient place to tuck my sunglasses. 

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On 7/1/2018 at 2:24 PM, NoName said:

https://oxwhite.com/

 

Too cheap not to try

 

Screenshot of the features page of the site reveals that the business owner doesn't really know what actually makes a good shirt, beyond marketing buzzwords. Better not waste your money.

Capture.JPG

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I wrote to the supplier of MOP buttons:

Hi S.,

 
I have a question. When the MOP buttons have been attached to the shirts and the shirts laundered, the buttons lose their gloss, becoming dull. I suppose the buttons were given a wax finish at the factory; this is then washed off by the detergent during laundry.
 
Is there the option to have a polymer finish that is permanent? This way, the buttons remain glossy even after many washes.
 
Cheers,
Jeremy

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Received the Oxwhite. I put it on for a minute. I genuinely thought my Sekolah Menengah white shirt felt better on the skin. The only word that came to my mind as I was wearing it - sandpaper.  

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R0330776.jpg?raw=1

Its rare to see shirtings with a woven selvedge. Here's one from Zegna. I'm impressed with the feel, but also the honesty. It was not woven by Zegna. It was "selected" by them.

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Screenshot_2018-10-08-23-23-27-412_com.g

I asked one of my Italian contacts who spent his entire career in the cloth trade to recommend to me two Italian shirtmakers who can sew shirts for me. I've always wanted to ask him this. What made me actually do it was an order of 11 shirts by an old customer. I thought it would be great if I can offer him the option of having those shirts sewn in Italy but with the same fit he has come to be so familiar with.

The red house with green windows above is the recommendation. It's in the suburbs of Napoli.

Another recommendation is in the north of Italy.

I'll try contacting the Napoli one first. I hope it works out.

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