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On 12/16/2019 at 1:59 PM, holymoly said:

Are you buying up remaining stocks of Testa?

Eh, no. 

IMG_20191217_184914.jpg?raw=1

Left: Button shank wrapping machine, bought just yesterday. 

Right: Button attaching machine, bought last week. 

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It's the interface you use to program the machine. You can define the values for several parameters like how many holes your button has, the shape of the stitch (two bars, or a cross), the width between the holes, the speed of sewing, and how many stitches, say 6 stitches or 24 stitches through each hole. 

You can also program presets. So you program the P1 button for large shirt buttons and P2 for small shirt buttons. 

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I bought a shirt buttonhole machine a couple days ago. It is in astounding condition. Almost new, albeit a vintage machine. 

The company that sold it to me owns the niichi and kitschen retail outlets. They used to produce themselves the clothes they sell in their outlets, using their own employees. (How romantic. And archaic.) Then, they started using Chinese factories, but maintained what is known as a "sample room" in KL. A sample room makes the prototype clothes (samples) often under direct supervision of the designers. These samples are for the designers to evaluate a design, and to debug any manufacturing problems before it goes into mass production. But, from two years ago, even the samples were made in China.

So I bought their sample room equipment. Quite a few machines. 

In many ways, JT's workshop is like a sample room. The quantities produced and the variety, as well as the sort of people who work there are like in sample rooms. 

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Ah. Sew first. I think this is true for all shirt buttonhole machines. 

With eyelet buttonhole machines, I would prefer cut first. But, I do not own such a machine. 

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IMG_20200304_185750.jpg?raw=1

A customer came in with a box containing this... cufflink. In all my life I never thought I'd see something like this. 

IMG_20200304_185745.jpg?raw=1

The question then becomes: When do I commission custom cufflinks from Royal Selangor? What motif would I use? 

IMG_20200304_185614.jpg?raw=1

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On 3/3/2020 at 11:06 PM, kotmj said:

I bought a shirt buttonhole machine a couple days ago. It is in astounding condition. Almost new, albeit a vintage machine. 

The company that sold it to me owns the niichi and kitschen retail outlets. They used to produce themselves the clothes they sell in their outlets, using their own employees. (How romantic. And archaic.) Then, they started using Chinese factories, but maintained what is known as a "sample room" in KL. A sample room makes the prototype clothes (samples) often under direct supervision of the designers. These samples are for the designers to evaluate a design, and to debug any manufacturing problems before it goes into mass production. But, from two years ago, even the samples were made in China.

So I bought their sample room equipment. Quite a few machines. 

In many ways, JT's workshop is like a sample room. The quantities produced and the variety, as well as the sort of people who work there are like in sample rooms. 

Industrial-grade sewing machines never fail to amaze me. They're fast, but more interesting to me: they're almost vibration-free. My Brother sewing machine would wobble while doing the simplest of stitches. Don't get me started on button-hole stitching.

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On 3/5/2020 at 12:13 AM, kotmj said:

IMG_20200304_185750.jpg?raw=1

A customer came in with a box containing this... cufflink. In all my life I never thought I'd see something like this. 

IMG_20200304_185745.jpg?raw=1

The question then becomes: When do I commission custom cufflinks from Royal Selangor? What motif would I use? 

IMG_20200304_185614.jpg?raw=1

 

 

I very much like Japanese koi fish motifs

 

koi.png

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Tokyo fit is smaller than usual. Nipped waist, tailored fit overall. Size up half a size and you still get a close fitting shirt. 
 

New York fit abit longer and normal cut I’m about 180cm, still has waist darts, but I like this fit more. The store attendant in their Madison Av store told me (this was last year) that they no longer produce this, but their website seems to still carry this. 
 

They carry a few different ranges from regular fused nonsense to unfused made w Thomas Mason fabric. Best made in my opinion are the green label ones saying “sport shirt”, nice unlined rolled collars. 
 

Overall good prices. Only about usd 80 a pop. Found the quality of the “sport shirt” very good. No complaints. 

 

 

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Stuck here in a major jam. I just realised that today, I handed over an order for a plain white shirt (and a suit) to a guy who owns shares in Oxwhite, and who receives free Oxwhite shirts. For that shirt, he is paying 6X the price of an Oxwhite. It further occurred to me that I've previously made him a bunch of shirts. 

So I learn that, in a person's wardrobe, it is possible to have garments of all provenances, running the entire gamut of formats. 

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14 hours ago, kotmj said:

Stuck here in a major jam. I just realised that today, I handed over an order for a plain white shirt (and a suit) to a guy who owns shares in Oxwhite, and who receives free Oxwhite shirts. For that shirt, he is paying 6X the price of an Oxwhite. It further occurred to me that I've previously made him a bunch of shirts. 

So I learn that, in a person's wardrobe, it is possible to have garments of all provenances, running the entire gamut of formats. 

Well a little variety is nice. And the oxwhite is relatively easy to iron.

I count in my wardrobe right now 4 JTs, 1 BB I bought at 70% off at Outlet, and 3 Oxwhites.

At one point I had 7 JTs and I could wear them all week, but had to phase out my initial 3 due to wear and tear. Buttons were popping out every other wash as well. To be fair I had them made in 2015 and used them every week.

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IMG_20200714_114157.jpg?raw=1

Got myself a stick of Nisshinbo Pinpoint Oxford. At one point, this was my house shirting. Then, I couldn't source it. Now, I can.

Nisshinbo also made some of the selvedge denims I stock. 

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Typing this from the premises of a German heavy machinery distributor. They wanted shirts with the company logo for their senior employees. I left some samples of white shirtings with them, explained my process, and prices. 

They're looking at something like 50-60 pcs of shirts. 

I said the cheapest shirt is RM350, unless they want something more guard/police uniform-like. They tell me no, they are looking for something premium since the German MD will be wearing this every day. 

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On Monday (my day off), I drove to Teluk Intan to visit an antiques shed. The proprietor advertised a Pfaff 30 for sale, in what appears to be great condition with its original table, which was built in a way that even high end furniture no longer is built today. 

He also had these bronze/brass weights. They were issued by some public organisation responsible for the accuracy of measuring devices used in trade. 

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The "1920" may not be the year of manufacture. All four weights have a four-digit number that seems random. I think it's a serial number. 

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I will use these weights on our cutting tables. The weight on the far left has had its patina removed by me in a solution of vinegar and salt. 

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Just received notification from UPS that 4.5 kg of shirtings are coming my way from Bergamo. Erstwhile Covid epicentre. I wonder what the shipping cost will be like. 

These are fabrics for customers' orders. I was told by a shirtmaker that the orders for premium shirts are essentially in a coma post-MCO. But how come I'm selling so many? Also, some Alumos are making their way to me from Switzerland. 

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