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I have alot of RTW shirts procured overseas (about 20) that need minor altering i.e shortening of sleeves, making it slimmer on the back and shortening the overall length of the shirts.

 

Where would one suggest i go to alter the lot of them in one shot? i asked a tailor near my place he quoted me about RM 40 per shirt ( 30 for sleeves and 10 more for shortening). I wonder would AL accommodate. i need him to press my suit as well.

 

I've heard good things about a alteration shop in KLCC

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Received my Acorn shirting lengths in the mail today, and I finalised my order with James last Friday. This is the express shipping option though, which was 38 pounds. Still, fantastic.

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yup. anything below rm80 will be lovely.

Many small timer tailors in KL will sew you short sleeves for about this price. I was quoted RM70 once for short sleeves. Whenever you see a half-shop with cobwebbed display suits from the 70s that is the sort of price they will demand.

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how much cloth would i need for short sleeves?

 

maybe i will go check out amcorp mall.

 

 

Big dude like me needs 1.8m @ 58" fabric length. Small-ish dude would need less.

 

I'm trying to switch my "T-shirt" casual situations with short-sleeve shirts.

 

 

I have a question concerning shirt construction: the split yoke. I have it on most of my RTW shirts (the better ones; el-cheapo ones never have 'em). What's the real function/benefit of the split yoke (vs single-piece yoke)? One article I've read long2 ago mentioned that it allows for better fit of individual shoulders. But if the shirt is RTW, this theory would not apply, yes? A more interesting explaination was that since the cloth is positioned at an angle, it'll allow some stretch along the axis of the yoke, giving a more comfy shirt. Do you guys specify split yokes for your tailored shirts?

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^ The split yoke also allows the shirt to conform and fall better on your shoulders, as most people don't have perfectly symmetrical shoulders, thus making it look and feel better. I definitely specify split yokes for all my shirts, and I'd be surprised if a shirtmaker does not oblige.

 

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6, I admire you for paying close to RM200 just for shipping.Do show us the shirting lengths.I'm assuming you bought quite a lot.

 

You mean you feel sorry for me for paying RM200. You should, even I feel sorry for me. Anyway, the shirt lengths are now being soaked and will be lovingly ironed tomorrow. They are boring lengths at best, which is the way I roll for shirts. One is "Plain Iris" and the other is a white with sky stripes ("AT-Sky"), both from the Grange range. These poplins look and feel great. I think I've also fallen in love with the Prince (twills) and Royal Oxford range.

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Big dude like me needs 1.8m @ 58" fabric length. Small-ish dude would need less.

 

I'm trying to switch my "T-shirt" casual situations with short-sleeve shirts.

 

 

I have a question concerning shirt construction: the split yoke. I have it on most of my RTW shirts (the better ones; el-cheapo ones never have 'em). What's the real function/benefit of the split yoke (vs single-piece yoke)? One article I've read long2 ago mentioned that it allows for better fit of individual shoulders. But if the shirt is RTW, this theory would not apply, yes? A more interesting explaination was that since the cloth is positioned at an angle, it'll allow some stretch along the axis of the yoke, giving a more comfy shirt. Do you guys specify split yokes for your tailored shirts?

 

i too would like to add more short sleeved shirts to my wardrobe. linen seems like the best option.

 

i have given up on finding a tailor who will do one for me before cny. no lucky red shirt this year.

 

i have never been a fan of split yokes. i wonder if ah loke charges more for them.

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Yes that is correct terror. I think the rather advantageous Australian exchange rate has somewhat skewed my perception. I needed the fabrics sooner than the 7-10 working days quoted with standard international shipping given I will be heading back to Aussie land soon.

 

Some math I did to give comfort to myself:

I paid 39 quid compared to 16 quid for regular shipping for 2 lengths of fabric means I'm paying a premium of 23 quid (39-16). Which is around AUD36 at the current exchange rate, okay la, I eat dinner there also about this price.

 

 

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Oh and this tailor I'm using charges RM130 per shirt if you supply your own fabric. So I think that's the same as ALT. Make of that what you will.

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^ The split yoke also allows the shirt to conform and fall better on your shoulders, as most people don't have perfectly symmetrical shoulders, thus making it look and feel better. I definitely specify split yokes for all my shirts, and I'd be surprised if a shirtmaker does not oblige.

 

But doesn't carbman's point about RTW shirts with split yokes hold? If the yoke isn't measured to your particular shoulder imbalance, then doesn't that make the split construction redundant?

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I think to say that it is totally redundant in RTW because the yoke is not cut specifically to your shoulder slope is a bit extreme. It just makes sense to me that since a 2-piece yoke will be more flexible, it will tend to fall on your shoulders better than a one-piece yoke. But this is all very theoretical. If we're talking RTW, I would go with whatever LOOKS the best on you. FWIW, my RTW shirts with split yokes hug my shoulders better. Then again, my uniqlo oxfords don't have a split yoke but I love the shit out of them.

 

However, now that I'm a shirting bigtimer who spends an exorbitant amount on shipping and on procuring shirting fabrics, I will no longer concern myself with RTW.

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I do like Uniqlo.

 

The Uniqlo shirts I bought from its Shanghai flagship had much nicer details than the stuff I've seen in Tokyo/Singapore/KL. Things like gussets and chambray-lined collar and cuffs. I like some of the poplins, but the oxfords are just too scratchy. They never develop the softness that a good quality oxford cloth should over time. Also, the collars are just a hair too slim for my liking.

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ah loke charges 260-280 for a shirt using his supplied 2 ply cotton. your tailor's 200 is tempting.

 

I would'nt bother with that fabric from my tailor, even RTW fabrics at rm200 feel better. Not to mention the stripe patterns are butt ugly. Passable ones are rm250+. I think you get the best price/quality ratio by sourcing yourself.

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Fit pics for the shirt which I took delivery of today. Appreciate any comments.

 

From what I can see,

 

- Shoulders need to be cleaned up on the front. Not sure how to do this, maybe front panels need to be shorter? (from front pic)

- Sleeves needs to be rotated, there are diagonal lines forming on the back of my shoulder (from side pic)

- Still slightly baggy in the waist - will ask him to cut a slightly trimmer body next time.

- Some pooling of fabric at the back of the neck (from side pic)

 

1) Side.

Shirtsidefinal.jpg

2) Front

Shirtfrontfinal.jpg

 

3) Back

Shirtbackfinal.jpg

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Oh and as promised, shop name and location. Btw, the Soktas fabric is fantastic and my posture is really horrible.

 

 

 

Buttonliew

 

 

Jalan PJU 5/10, Kota Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Selangor 47810

 

 

 

Phone: 03 6140 6620

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Bolded it for effect :)

 

I've started calling him "button" to see what his reaction would be. No reaction -.-

 

The person who makes his suit buttonholes is quite good. Will take a photo and post it up when I get a chance. Quoted me RM1600 for workmanship on a fully canvassed 2-piece suit.

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6,

 

How much does your tailor charge for labor to make a long sleeve shirt? 1600 for full canvass is decent. I once went to Amcorp mall just to ask around since I was there, and was quoted RM2200 for labor to commission a SB full canvassed and he wants 3 months to make it. He was quite a character.

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